Dog Care Guide

AKC vs RBDA: What’s the difference?

What is all the hype about our dogs belonging to a club? Many pet owners do not even belong to a club. Dog owners, who take pride in their pets, will generally register their dogs in some kind of kennel club, especially if they plan to breed their dog. Registered dogs tend to cost a little more and are more appealing to dog buyers.

AKC stands for American Kennel Club. It is the most well known kennel club in the United States. They are dedicated to supporting the sport of pure breeds. They were found back in 1884 and they are a promoter of responsible dog ownership. Although the AKC is dog friendly, no matter the status of the breed, they believe that purebred dogs are more predictable in several aspects. Hence, they believe that purebreds make better pets. Half of American homes have pets and 36% of them are dog owners; Therefore, more emphasis should be placed on the subject.

The AKC stays very active. They encourage the sport of purebred dogs. They sponsor over 15,000 dog competitions a year

The AKC deals with approximately one million applications a year. Although, they do not specialize in the selling of purebreds. Because of this, they can not vouch for the health of the animal.

If you were to purchase a dog that comes from an AKC registered blood line, you will also receive an application for your dog�s registration. Someone who is buying an AKC registered dog must realize that the certification is in no way guarantying that the dog is in perfect health or that the quality of the dog is without flaw. It is only stating that the canine is a direct offspring of a known sire (stud/father) and dam (mother/bitch) and that it is born on a factual date. They must also be from the same breed. In order to register a litter of puppies, the sire and dam must be AKC registered and the litter born in the US. The owner of the litter wanting to register the litter must fill out an application which requires basic information such as: date of mating and birth, the number of males and females born in the litter, the sire and dam�s registered names and numbers and lastly the owner�s address and signature. You must fill out the form and send it back to the AKC. They, in turn, will send you paperwork for each individual puppy to be filled out partly by you. Once the puppies have been purchased, the new owner will have to fill out the remaining information and send it back, with a fee, the AKC. After they have processed your application, you should receive an official AKC Certificate in the mail.

The Rare Breed Dog Association is another type of dog registration. You may wonder what exactly is a �rare dog breed.� In simple terms, it is a dog that the American Kennel Club does not recognize. They have a number of services they offer such as: Public awareness of the rare breed dog; Education of the rare breed dog; Registration of the rare breed dog; as well as rare breed dog shows. Their goal is to watch over the �Rare Breed Dog� in the US and educate the public of the over 130 rare dog breeds that are out there. The RBDA have a number of groups that they represent. The following are dog groups along with a few of the actual breeds they represent:

Companion Group (American Hairless Terrier, Bolognese, Cavalier King Charles)

Herding group (King and English Shepherd, Akbash)

Hound group (Basset Artesien Normand, Black Forest Hound, Batard)

Spitz group (Canadian Estimo Dog, Carolina Dog, Chinook)

Sporting group [( Barbet, Boykin Spaniel, Bracco Italiano) These sporting group dogs are located in the Gundog group located in various in Europe]

Terrier group (American Pit Bull Terrier, Cesky Terrier, Jadgterrier)

Working group ( Aidi, Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog, American Bulldog)

Whether you have a rare breed dog or a purebred dog, there our resources out there to get your dog registered. Once again, either way you go, it does not prove the quality of the animal, just the family line. Although, if purchasing a dog, buying an AKC or RBDA registered dog is the best way to tract the history of the dog. Either way, a dog is a dog. They serve a variety of purposes, and as long as they are fulfilling that purpose, that is what�s important.

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October 29th, 2005 by Administrator | Comments Off

Animal Assisted Therapy: Can it help you?

The term �animal assisted therapy� is to be distinguished from the more familiar practice of �animal assisted activities�, which refers generally to pet visitation at hospitals and residential care facilities.

Animal Assisted Therapy is part of a formal and carefully designed treatment program with specific and measurable objectives that matches one animal to one patient. Under the guidance of a trained medical professional, patients with severe mental and/or physical disabilities are encouraged to interact with a �therapy dog� under the supervision of a trained dog handler. The patient�s interaction with the dog is increased gradually. Initially, the patient may merely observe the dog or touch it. As the patient becomes more responsive and confident, activities may include brushing, attaching collars and even walking the dog. Progress records are maintained as milestones are met and exceeded.

Studies have shown that therapy pets motivate people to participate in therapeutic interactions. Dogs are not judgmental, they don�t hassle or pressure their partner and they have endless patience. Further, simply because they are animals and require care, the patient grooming them or walking them is made to feel useful.

The benefits and expectations of animal assisted activities, or pet visits, vary according to the needs and conditions of the patients being visited. Pet visits are less formal; they do not follow a particular treatment plan or schedule and they are not usually set up on a one pet to one patient scenario. Pet visits are common to hospitals, assisted living homes and nursing homes. They are often nothing more than a way to entertain people or to change their routine and brighten their day. On the other hand, when visited by a pet, some people who have basically shut themselves off from human interaction will begin to work their way back to reality. Apparently, the pet stirs emotions in them that have been lying dormant. Examples have been given where patients who have not spoken a word in over a year will begin to talk to the visiting dog.

Now that pet therapy has become a proven and documented reality, institutions are beginning to capitalize on this phenomenon with the �resident pet.� This term refers to a cat or a dog that becomes a permanent resident of a particular facility and is usually given free run of the place. Each resident benefits from a proprietary interest in the animal and looks forward to assisting in its care. In some cases, a full course of therapy has been designed around the care and feeding of a resident pet. The residents meet to discuss what must be done and develop their own charts and schedules to accommodate the pet�s needs. However, staff must be constantly on the alert to avoid problems of jealousy and feuds over the pet�s affections.

The attributes and characteristics that comprise a good visiting dog or therapy dog have more to do with temperament than training. Not to say that the dog will not need training in basic obedience, but that is normally sufficient except in extraordinary situations. Patients and residents react to the dogs in a variety of ways. Some are effusive, some impulsive and others are shy. Therefore, the dogs must be ready for anything. It surely wouldn�t do for a dog to lunge away or growl if a patient makes a loud noise or reaches for them abruptly. When selecting a dog for these purposes, you would not necessarily want an animal that is high strung or one that is too laid back to get up and socialize.

Numerous studies have documented the benefits of pet therapy. Pets have been used in treating AIDS patients, cancer patients, the elderly and the mentally ill. One study determined that petting a dog can lower blood pressure and another found that pets can reduce stress related illnesses. A study at City Hospital in New York noted that heart patients who owned pets lived longer than those without pets. Owning a pet was found to be more significant to long term survival than the presence of even a spouse or friends.

Pets make us feel good. They comfort us, allow us to be ourselves and give those of us that need it, a reason for living.

October 31st, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Puppy 911: Recognizing symptoms of emergency

For many of us, when our dogs are ill, it is often quite difficult to know whether or not their condition warrants a trip to the emergency room.

In an emergency, the first thing you should know is where to take your dog. Many veterinarians offer 24 hour emergency service. Please make sure to ask your vet if this is a service offered by their practice. If your vet does not offer this service, know where your local veterinary emergency hospital is located.

So how do you know if you are experiencing an emergency? Most veterinarians will tell you that if you feel the situation is urgent to please call the closest emergency clinic and speak to a veterinary staff member. They will assess the situation and in most cases, have you bring your dog in to be examined. The following are some common emergency situations and ideas for how to handle them.

Acute Abdominal Pain If your dog is showing signs of abdominal pain such as tenderness to the touch, standing with his back arched, or refusing food, you should take him to the closest emergency clinic immediately. Other signs of abdominal distress can include vomiting, crying, shaking and difficulty breathing. These may be signs of Gastric Torsion. This condition can come on suddenly and in most cases affects large, deep chested dogs but any dog can be affected. This condition must be treated as soon as possible. There are other conditions associated with abdominal pain such as constipation, kidney or liver disease, or even a common stomach ache, but it is important to have tests done to rule out anything serious.

Uncontrollable Bleeding or Bleeding from the Chest. If your dog gets a cut, you should apply direct pressure with a clean dry bandage to the wound. The bleeding should stop within ten minutes, after which time, you should make an appointment to see your vet as soon as possible. The vet can only give your dog stitches within a small window of time. However, if the bleeding does not stop within twenty minutes or the bleeding is from the chest, you should take your dog to the emergency clinic immediately.

Broken Bones. If your dog has been in an accident where you suspect broken bones, first call your regular vet to see if you can get an appointment soon. If not, take your dog to the emergency clinic. They will need to take x-rays to determine whether or not bones have been broken.

Breathing Difficulties. If your dog is having breathing difficulties, take them to the closest emergency hospital immediately. There are many reasons why your dog could be having breathing problems and many of them are serious.

Car Accidents If your dog is hit by a car, it is important to take him to the closest emergency clinic immediately. Even if he is acting normal, he may have internal injuries that need to be taken care of quickly. Wrap your dog in a blanket to help prevent shock, and keep away from his mouth as many dogs that are in pain will bite (even if they never have before).

Continuous Convulsions. If your dog has a minor seizure or two, it is a serious problem and you should call your veterinarian at once. However, if your dog has a series of convulsions that last for more than a few minutes, you should place a blanket over your dog, keep away from his mouth and get him to the nearest emergency clinic immediately. There are several reasons why your dog could be having convulsions including epilepsy, metabolic problems, brain tumors, and poisoning and fits of seizures are considered to be life threatening in many cases.

In any serious situation, if you feel that your dog should be seen by a veterinarian, call his office to see how soon you can get in. Many veterinarians have technicians available to assess situations and answer questions to help you determine the seriousness of your dog�s condition. If your regular veterinarian is not available or if you feel that it is an emergency, the best thing to do, if at all possible, is to call the emergency clinic and tell them what is going on and that you are on the way. This helps the staff prepare for your situation in advance so the veterinary team is ready to work on your dog when you get there. If you have further questions on what kinds of conditions are emergency situations, please ask your veterinarian.

October 31st, 2005 by Administrator | 1 Comment »

Four Things to Do when Dealing with a Difficult Dog

When you brought him home, you just knew that cute little puppy was going to brighten your family�s life in many different ways! You visualized him running with the children in the backyard, curled up at your feet on a winter�s night in front of the fire, and as an always-cheerful companion for everyone in the house.

You didn�t expect biting. You certainly didn�t anticipate his aggressive personality. You never dreamt he would make it his life�s mission to destroy clothing and furniture. You didn�t plan for the random barking or the wanton disobedience. Whether you were ready for it or not, you own a difficult dog.

There is undoubtedly a temptation to give up. You may feel as though you are simply trapped with a �naughty dog.� Some may even consider the highly inappropriate route of abandoning a pet under these circumstances. Neither of these solutions, however, is good for the dog or the owner. Instead, one must be determined that they will work with their difficult dog to improve the situation. Making that commitment is the essential first step in dealing with any difficult dog.

But then what? There is no one-size-fits all solution for handling a difficult dog. Like people, each dog�s personality and needs are unique. There are four overarching things you need to do, however, if you want your dog to live a happy life and to be a pleasurable companion for you.

Seek out information

That small ten-page dog-training pamphlet you picked up at the pet store along with the leashes is not going to enough of a guide to training your difficult dog. Seek out detailed and expertly written information about dog training and specific methods to assist you in training your difficult pet. Canvass the library, bookstores and the internet in the pursuit of knowledge and tips that can help you deal with your specific pet problems. Although one must avoid researching at the expense of doing, it is important to have a strong understanding of your dog, his problems, and potential means of addressing his behavioral deficiencies.

Make sure your dog is healthy

Often, behavioral problems can be a manifestation of an underlying health problem. Consider the possibility that your dog�s behavior issues could be symptomatic of a physical problem. Make sure your dog is thoroughly checked out by a veterinarian. If a medical issue is underlying his poor behavior, proper treatment can rectify many of his problems�as well as helping to insure a long healthy life for your dog. Too often, medical causes of poor behavior go overlooked.

Be patient

Don�t expect your problem dog to transform overnight. Changing the behavior patters of difficult dogs can take some time. If you expect the quick course that worked in training your neighbor�s non-problem dog to be successful for your difficult pet, you will be disappointed. Brace yourself to commit a great deal of time to correcting your dog�s errant behavior. Additionally, impatience increases the risk of inconsistency in training and the likelihood you may lose your temper or act inappropriately in handling your dog. This type of behavior on the part of an owner may not only be cruel, it can also reverse any gains made and make quality training even more difficult.

Seek assistance

Sometimes a dog simply requires professional training assistance. If you have tried to manage the situation unsuccessfully and feel you are at a dead end, you must consider utilizing a professional dog trainer. Quality professionals have wide-reaching experience and may be able to isolate training methods that will be effective for your particular dog. You may need to hire a trainer on a regular basis. At there very least, you may plan on consulting with a trainer regularly.

By learning more, keeping a close eye on your dog�s physical health, remaining patient and seeking professional guidance when necessary, you can improve the quality of life for your behaviorally challenged dogs. The little puppy you brought home in hopes of having the perfect pet still has a chance at that happy life if you follow these recommendations and commit to treating the dog properly and training him effectively. By committing yourself to your dog�s training and well being you may end up with just the happy, content and cheerful companion you wanted all along.

November 2nd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Basic Care and Maintenance for your pup’s pearly whites

Many people do not realize the importance of caring for their dog�s teeth. As dogs age, the need for dental care increases. The best way to ensure proper dental health for your dog is to start while they are very young.

Many dogs do not like their mouths touched. It is important for you as a dog owner to desensitize them to being handled like this at a very young age. The veterinarian is always going to need to examine your dog�s mouth and you do not want to have problems with this. The best way for you to get your dog used to having his mouth touched is to begin touching it when you first get your pup. Make sure to touch the lips, open the mouth, and touch the teeth in a calm and relaxing way for about five minutes each day until your pup is used to being handled in this way. Make this a regular part of your interaction with your dog so he remains calm when you are doing any kind of preventive dental care.

Most veterinarians recommend brushing your dog�s teeth daily. Many manufacturers make special toothpaste and brushes for dogs. You do not ever want to use human toothpaste on dogs as it may be harmful to them. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, you may want to start by putting a dab of dog toothpaste on a cotton ball and rubbing it over his teeth. Toothpaste for dogs is usually quite tasty to them, so he shouldn�t mind this. You can then try a finger brush, available at your veterinarian�s office or pet supply store. Eventually, especially for larger breeds, you will want to graduate to a regular dog toothbrush. Regular brushing will help prevent the buildup of calculus and debris on your dog�s teeth.

Another way to help prevent calculus and buildup on your dog�s teeth is by using rawhide chews specially formulated for dental care. Many companies manufacture these chews. One of the best available is by C.E.T. Most veterinarians carry C.E.T. dental health products. C.E.T. chews are formulated with an enzyme that helps keep plaque from forming and prevents the buildup of bacteria. Also, the natural abrasion of rawhide chews helps keep teeth healthy. C.E.T. also makes a chew that contains chlorhexadine which has antimicrobial properties.

Some companies also make special dental health food, which may be recommended to you by your veterinarian to help prevent dental problems.

Even with proper preventive measures, most dogs will eventually need a dental cleaning from your veterinarian. If your veterinarian recommends a dental cleaning, it is important that you follow through. If your dog develops dental disease, harmful bacteria can pass through into the bloodstream causing potentially serious problems such as kidney infections and infections involving the heart valves.

A dental cleaning performed by your veterinarian is much like a human dental cleaning, however your dog will need to be sedated. The anesthesia is light and with today�s technology is extremely safe. Many veterinarians have anesthesia monitoring systems just like those used in human medicine. A thorough exam will be performed to determine if any teeth need to be pulled or repaired. Some veterinarians will do x-rays of the teeth to find any cracks or diseased teeth. After this, a trained member of the veterinary staff will perform a dental cleaning. First, they will scale the teeth to remove the tartar above and below the gum line. This will be done with both hand instruments and ultrasonic scaling equipment. After this, the teeth will be polished, which will make them smooth and help prevent plaque from adhering to them. Most veterinarians will also do a fluoride treatment. This is to help strengthen the enamel and prevent plaque from forming. If any teeth are diseased or broken, your veterinarian may pull them. Some veterinarians who specialize in dental care will perform root canals and other intensive dental work. Most veterinarians will put your dog on a treatment of antibiotics to help prevent bacterial infection.

It is very important to take good care of your dog�s teeth to keep them healthy and to prevent infections. Always follow your veterinarian�s advice and if you have further questions, consult your veterinary staff or pet professional.

November 3rd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Pet Insurance: Yes, It Really Exists

Although pet insurance has been available for approximately 20 years, many pet owners have never heard of it and are surprised that such a thing would even exist. After all, insurance is for people, right? Well, if you have ever had to empty your savings account in order to pay for a pet�s surgery or if you have ever had to put a beloved pet to sleep because you couldn�t afford medical care, then you can absolutely testify to the usefulness and worth of pet insurance.

As is the case with most other health-related expenses, the costs associated with an average pet�s medical care - preventative, emergency and catastrophic � are rising all the time. If you have multiple pets, the cost of even the most basic care can be financially crippling. When deciding whether or not to buy a health insurance policy for your pet, you have to ask yourself a few questions. Do you consider your pet to be a member of the family? Would you be unable to pay for (potentially) thousands of dollars in medical bills if your pet develops cancer or needs long-term medical care? Would it absolutely break your family�s heart to have to euthanize your pet because you didn�t plan ahead for potential health crises? If you answered �yes� to any of these questions, then you�ll want to seriously consider purchasing an insurance policy for your pet.

What Kind of Pet Insurance Is Available?

Pet insurance is now available through a multitude of specialty companies; and, just as with your average health insurance plan, the higher the premium, the greater the range of benefits you and your pet receive. The average plan costs anywhere from $20 - $40 per month and has either no annual benefit limit at all or a limit of approximately $15,000 - $20,000. Many plans offer discounts for coverage of multiple pets. Your deductible will be determined by the plan you choose, but the average is approximately $100 per year.

Since the majority of the medical expenses generated by a pet are related to routine procedures, look for a plan that covers vaccinations, neutering and spaying, annual check-ups and dental care. You want your pet to be protected in case he develops a serious illness or injury, but these lower-budget procedures can also put a big dent in your bank account. Make sure you�re pet is covered!

What Sort of Restrictions Are There?

You may be willing to pay for your pet�s health insurance, but that doesn�t mean an insurance company will automatically cover him. If your pet is over a certain age, he may be denied coverage. Even if you find insurance for your pet, there are always certain coverage limits and restrictions. Most policies won�t cover the treatment of pre-existing conditions or genetic defects. Sometimes cancer is also excluded from coverage (although many companies will add cancer care to the coverage for an additional cost).

Be aware of any waiting periods that are written into your pet�s policy. The waiting period will determine when your pet�s coverage actually begins � waiting periods can last anywhere from two weeks to six months. Once your plan takes effect, you may have to choose a veterinarian from a list of approved providers.

What Are the Alternatives to Pet Insurance?

If your pet does not qualify for insurance or if you simply choose not to buy a policy, there are a few money-saving options you can try. One example is a pet health care discount program (i.e. Pet Assure). When you join the program, you receive a discount (up to 25%) on your pet�s medical care as long as you patronize participating veterinarians. Other benefits, such as prescription discounts and access to product coupons, are also included in the membership fee.

If your uninsured dog needs emergency medical care and you have no funds available, ask your vet if their clinic offers any sort of emergency funding. Sometimes veterinarians will set aside funds for pets whose owners cannot afford care, especially if the treatment does not involve long-term care and multiple visits. If there are no such funds set aside, you may be able to finance the fees. A final option (and definitely a long-shot) is the humane society or non-profit pet support group that offers financial aid. You have to apply for their limited funds and few applicants actually receive enough money to pay the totality of their pet�s medical bills. Insurance is really the only way to make sure that your pet can receive costly medical care if he needs it.

November 4th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT VERSUS POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT

In this article, we shall discuss a variety of reinforcement methods used in animal training. We shall endeavor to clearly point out the pros and cons of each type and also discuss their appropriateness for given situations. Hopefully this will give you, the reader, the knowledge needed to make an educated decision on how to reward or correct your pets� behavior. To begin, let�s improve our understanding of positive reinforcement.

Positive Reinforcement, for the purposes of this article, refers to any form of training that is based on rewards rather than punishment. This training would be the type witnessed in many zoos where a trained animal is rewarded with some treat, such as a morsel of food, for a job well done. Positive reinforcement can also refer to petting the animal or verbal praises. Other examples of positive reinforcement would be play time, such as a rousing game of fetch or playing chase.

Negative Reinforcement is the opposite of positive reinforcement. This involves a punishment for less than favorable performances and usually implies some kind of fear, pain or discomfort for the animal being trained. Training aids such as electrical shock collars or choke chains would fall under this category. Also in this category, you would find such things as crate training and chemical compounds, such as Bitter Apple and Cayenne Pepper. This is the kind of training exhibited in the old time circus shows displaying lion tamers and whips to keep the animals in submission.

While both types of reinforcement have their place, they also have limits and unacceptable uses. To beat a dog or inflict serious physical injury to the animal in the name of training is morally unacceptable and inexcusable, not to mention illegal in most areas. By the same token, allowing a dog to become a danger to others by never using any form of punishment is also unacceptable. An equal balance must be achieved for proper training of your pet or you run the risk of owning a maladjusted animal which will be either overly aggressive or fearful and nervous. If error is to be made in either direction, fall to the safer side of too much positive reinforcement, as this is much easier to correct.

Positive reinforcement does much for the relationship of the pet to its master and should be given any time the pet demonstrates a correct behavior at an appropriate time. Your pet will sense your pleasure in its performances and will seek to repeat them more often in the future. A kind word or a small treat goes a very long way towards your dog seeing you as a leader. Being pack animals, dogs will pick an Alpha or leader to the pack and will follow readily with a sole desire to please. To use positive reinforcement effectively, find what motivates your dog. Perhaps it is food or toys, playtime or even verbal praise. Whatever the case may be, use this motivation to achieve results with your pet. Consistently reward the pet in immediate response to the desired behavior. Dogs are creatures that thrive on instant gratification. In other words, reward them immediately for an action and they are far more likely to repeat it.

Negative reinforcement also has its place in training your dog, albeit a much smaller place. If your dog exhibits an undesirable behavior such as chewing on your power cords for your laptop or soiling the floor, then action must be taken to correct this. Behaviors such as chewing power cords could be dangerous to the animal and allowing this to continue could be harmful to your pets� health as well as costly for you, in both repair bills and veterinary visits. Just like a child, sometimes a pup needs correction or a time out. A little time in the kennel or a light but convincing tap on the nose will help your pet to understand that these behaviors are not going to continue. (A note from the author: While a light swat to correct a dangerous situation such as cord chewing is acceptable, beating or injuring your pet is not. Please be a responsible pet owner and if you have had a bad day, don�t take it out on the dog.)

Again it should be remembered that immediate and consistent action is the key in training using both methods of reinforcement. If you wait too long before correcting or rewarding a behavior, all impact of the message will be lost. Observing these basics, you can clearly see that both methods are useful to trainers and have their special niches.

November 6th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

THE FIVE THINGS TO AVOID DURING TRAINING

In training your dog there are a few major downfalls that you are sure to encounter. Knowing them before you reach this point is very helpful to avoiding stressful situations later. The biggest mistake most people make is also the easiest for new trainers to fall victim to. This is the danger of expecting too much.

Dogs are very intelligent creatures and, by and large, very trainable. Thus when you visit the park with your untrained dog and the person next to you is playing Frisbee with their German Shepherd and the Poodle down the way is sitting patiently rather than attacking picnic goers, it is easy to think your dog should know these behaviors from birth. We often times forget the many hours of training that have been put into these wonderful dogs. Your dog can learn these very same antics but it will take time for these lessons to be instilled. Do not expect your dog to learn all of these routines over night. This would merely set you up for downfall number two.

The second problem people encounter is losing their temper. This usually results in an out of breath owner who is yelling at the top of the vocal capacity, a frightened dog and possibly a visit from the local animal welfare department depending on how the individual vents their frustrations. To avoid this downfall, make a conscious effort never to yell at your pet and hitting is always wrong. Raising your voice to your pet will do little to correct their errant behavior and do much harm to your relationship with the animal. It will result in a nervous animal that cowers from you rather than obeys your commands.

The third thing to avoid falls at the other end of the spectrum. These people let the dog become the master. This is equally detrimental to your relationship with the animal as the animal has no control to its behaviors and can quickly become a danger to itself and others. Dogs are pack animals and quickly decide who the leader is and who follows. If you do not take the leadership role from the beginning, you can rest assured that your pet will. A dog without a master will run amok and will quickly get into trouble chasing cars and people, destroying property and making a nuisance of itself. This mistake is tantamount to animal abuse and is very nearly as bad as the previous one.

Fourth in line of things to avoid is the mistake of giving up. Many a dog owner has a pet that has never reached its full potential due to the owner losing interest in their training. Dogs love to learn, especially when the owner rewards well learned behavior traits. Many owners, lacking the time or perhaps the patience, will be quite happy to have a pet that merely answers to its name and stops barking when repeatedly shouted at. Please do not let yourself fall into this trap. Your pet is a highly intelligent animal and is capable of learning so much more. Occasionally, dogs have even been known to develop neuroses due to boredom from not being challenged enough. This results in an unhealthy animal that can be poorly socialized and destructive of furnishings or even its own body. Your dog can and will respond to your training efforts if given the time to do so.

A fifth point that we keep reiterating (and well we should) is people�s failure to be consistent. If you tell the dog to sit and your pet doesn�t do it, stick with it until they do. Always use the same command words and enforce the same action each and every time. Manually enforce the command if it is necessary to get the desired reaction and reward the animal with some play time or some verbal praise for properly performing the routine. Consistency is the major key to training your pet. Repetitive lessons taught on a regular basis with consistent rewards are necessary to the effective training of your pet.

Knowing these five downfalls ahead of time will save you many frustrations while training your pet and will result in a much a healthier and happier relationship with your pet.

November 6th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

THE BASICS OF TRAINING YOUR DOG

As a new dog owner and trainer, you may find yourself a bit overwhelmed at first. Do not be discouraged by this. It is quite common and shows a healthy concern for your pets well being. This being said there are a few very simple rules to remember when training your pet.

If you can remember to remain consistent, keep a level head and reward your pet appropriately then you have won a large part of the battle. What do these three basics entail? We shall discuss that in the following few paragraphs.

Dogs are creatures of habit. Every part of their daily life revolves around an internal schedule and routine. They anticipate the return of their owners at a certain time of day and know that meal times occur regularly. Once trained, they will even exhibit certain behaviors to mark these times of day, such as bringing their empty food dish to their master or waiting near the door for their owners return. To us humans, this may seem a dull existence but our canine companions thrive on consistent routines. This fact is very useful to a new trainer as it can make your job much easier if you use this knowledge. Why? Because canine obedience training revolves around repetition of certain actions. The goal behind obedience training is the idea that a dog will respond with a certain reaction every time a certain command is given. This means that every time you tell your dog to sit, this will be exactly what will happen. To make use of the animal�s instinctive behavior in this regard, one must remember to be consistent with training. Go thru the routines exactly the same way every time with no variation until they are well in hand. If you tell your dog to sit, make certain your pet does so before moving on to the next point, even pushing their hindquarters down if necessary to accomplish this end. This rigid consistency will go a long way towards achieving a well-trained pet.

Let�s now move along to the next point of keeping a level head, which is also one of the more difficult points. At the end of a long day of work, you are tired, the dog just doesn�t seem to be responding and tempers can flare quite easily. You may decide this dog is just one of the few who can�t be trained or that you just don�t have the skills. You might be feeling completely discouraged by a seeming lack of interest on the dogs part to learn even the simplest of behaviors. You will most likely encounter this scenario more than once in your venture at dog training. Just take this moment as a queue that the lesson is done for the time being and retire to some less strenuous amusement such as a hot cup of tea. Dogs are like children and will find the ways to irritate you for amusement it seems. Just like children, they take time and patience in teaching anything worth training them for. Rome wasn�t built in a day and your dog won�t become a well trained champion over night either.

Now let�s move on to the third major point in being a successful trainer. The reward for doing a behavior or trick correctly. This is a very important part of the training process as it builds your relationship with your pet and shows them your appreciation for their good behaviors. Again consistent treatment is important in training and a reward should be given every time a performance of a given command is executed properly. This is not saying to give your dog a food treat every time. While an occasional tidbit of food is a great reward doing so consistently is not. This would result in an unhealthy pet and be counterproductive to your training efforts. Rather than doing this, offer other forms of reward such as rich verbal praise, play with a favorite toy or petting your dog to show affection. These rewards will enhance your relationship with your pet and make future training sessions even easier as your pet will anticipate these rewards and want to please you.

If these simple steps are kept in mind, your pets training should be an easy task with many rich rewards. Enjoy your pet and make your bond stronger while training with these three principles.

November 7th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Dog Training: Attitude is Important

There is nothing more critical to the success of dog training than the owner�s attitude. The mindset of the trainer is more important than the equipment purchased, the exact system used, or the breed of dog involved. Nothing can destroy the likelihood of effective training more quickly than an owner with the wrong outlook on the training process.

Dogs naturally crave and enjoy human companionship. When their human companions approach them in the right way, they are particularly receptive to learning and develop a strong desire to act in a manner that will please their master. This is why a proper attitude is exceedingly important with respect to training dogs. When the owner is pleasant, the dog will be pleasant. When the owner is excited about teaching, the dog will most likely be excited about learning. Dogs can often reflect the attitudes and dispositions of their owners, a fact that must be kept in mind while undertaking dog training.

Additionally, the proper outlook on dog training can make the experience infinitely more enjoyable for the owner. A pleasant training experience will naturally produce better instruction on the part of the trainer. Again, proper attitude will pay training dividends.

So, what is the right attitude to bring to dog training? Owners should strive to maintain a positive perspective at all times and should strive for a mood that makes the process fun for both the dog and the trainer. Failure to approach training with such an attitude risks disaster. The proper attitude and perspective truly is the prerequisite to training success.

The owner should be positive. A positive perspective, of course, works in conjunction with any quality training method. Effective training requires positive reinforcement, and that kind of praise and affection is best administered by someone who generally presents a positive attitude. Training will be filled with compliments, encouragement and praise. Those rewards, which are the key component to training, are more likely to be appropriately and effectively administered by a trainer with a positive disposition.

Trainers should recognize that they can manage to be both firm and friendly at the same time. It is not necessary to affect an angry or severe tone during the training process. These caricatures of displeasure do not offer any more training value than utilization of a simple serious tone. A lower tone with a serious �bite� is more than enough. When praising and instructing, the owner must remember to use a very friendly and happy voice. The dog will thrive knowing his owner enjoys their interaction so much and will be very motivated to learn as a result.

Most importantly the trainer must always remember that dog training is supposed to be fun. It should be fun for the trainer and just as fun for the pet. The idea is to make the training process exciting and enjoyable for the pet as is possible. By making the process a treat, the dog is especially motivated to perform.

Too often training becomes nothing more than a mandatory task. The owner does not relish the opportunity to spend time with his or her dog. The dog understands this and does not get excited at the prospect, either. In worse cases, training becomes an undesirable chore. The negative disposition and attitude of the owner is sensed clearly by the dog and mirrored. Training progress stalls, frustration sets in, and the whole process becomes further crippled.

The cliché that �attitude is everything� really does describe dog training. A negative or harsh attitude will crush hopes of success. A positive perspective coupled with friendliness and a sense of fun will make training a treat.

A fun disposition also makes training more enjoyable for the dog owner. The trainer�s positive attitude creates a more positive disposition for the pet, which in turn improves the trainer�s outlook even more. By starting the training process with a solid positive attitude, the owner gets the ball rolling, so to speak. The end result can be a training experience that is enjoyed by both pet and owner, which is sure to create amazing results. By approaching training with a positive disposition, a dog owner can produce surprising and positive outcomes.

November 11th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Did you just eat that? 10 things found in your home that can kill your dog

Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog�s reach.

1) Antifreeze: Many people do not realize it, but common antifreeze kills many pets each year. It smells and tastes very sweet to your dog and is very appealing to him. Ethylene glycol is toxic however, and each winter, many animals are killed by it. Symptoms of toxicity include seizures, vomiting, stumbling and lethargy leading to kidney failure. Make sure to keep your antifreeze out of your dog�s reach. If you suspect that your dog has ingested antifreeze, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

2) Chocolate: Chocolate contains a substance called the obromine which is toxic to dogs. Baking chocolate and dark chocolate is especially dangerous. While it usually takes a somewhat large amount of chocolate to kill a dog, poisoning and death does occur with smaller amounts ingested. Signs of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, increased urination, and increased activity. This can progress to seizures and unusual heart rhythms. Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate.

3) Bleach: As you might imagine, household bleach is toxic to dogs. Keep all products containing bleach out of your dog�s reach. Symptoms of bleach poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and abdominal pain. Do NOT induce vomiting if you suspect your dog has ingested bleach and contact your veterinarian immediately.

4) Tylenol: As little as two regular strength Tylenol tablets can kill a small dog. Dogs lack the proper liver enzymes to break down acetaminophen. Signs of toxicity include drooling, lethargy, and abdominal pain. If you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol, call your veterinarian immediately.

5) Watch Batteries: If your dog ingests a watch battery, it can cause a potentially fatal ulceration in the stomach within 12 hours. All other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs as well. Symptoms of toxicity include drooling, lack of appetite, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has ingested a watch battery, contact your vet immediately.

6) Moth Balls: Moth balls are very dangerous to dogs. They contain an insecticide that causes central nervous system excitement and seizures. When metabolized, ingestion of moth balls can lead to liver failure. Symptoms of poisoning by moth balls include vomiting and seizures. If your dog has consumed moth balls, do NOT induce vomiting. Seek veterinary care immediately.

7) Fabric Softeners and other detergents: All sorts of household detergents are toxic to dogs at one level or another, but fabric softeners fall into the highly toxic category. Signs of toxicity include vomiting, lethargy, burns to the mouth, drooling, muscle weakness, and even coma. Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog has ingested any detergent. Contact your veterinarian immediately.

8) Mouthwash: Mouthwash can contain boric acid which is highly toxic to dogs. Symptoms of poisoning by mouthwash include vomiting, drooling, seizures, and coma. You should take your dog to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect poisoning by mouthwash or other household item containing boric acid like contact lens solution or denture cleaner.

9) Peach Pits: With most fruits, the pits and the seeds are toxic to dogs. Signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has eaten a peach pit or the pit or seeds of any fruit, take him to the veterinarian immediately.

10) Household Plants: Many common and popular household plants are highly toxic to dogs. A partial list of toxic plants includes poinsettias, lilies, ferns, devil�s ivy, aloe, and ivy. Symptoms of poisoning due to ingestion of toxic plants include vomiting and central nervous system excitement. Many of these plants are fatal if ingested. Please contact your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten a toxic houseplant.

With diligence on our part, we can help prevent our dogs from getting into substances that are toxic to them. Many veterinary school websites offer lists of things that are toxic to dogs and what you should do if your dog ingests such things. As always, if you think your dog may have eaten something dangerous, contact your veterinarian immediately or take your dog to the closest emergency clinic.

November 14th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY

You�re the proud owner of a new puppy. Unfortunately, you are also the not so proud owner of a soggy living room carpet. It doesn�t take long to realize this can�t keep happening. So what do you do? It might just be time to housebreak your new pet.

Housebreaking may sound painful but relax. It really isn�t all that difficult. It is your dog�s natural tendency to want to keep its living area clean so once the home is firmly established in your pets mind the problem will be resolved. There are several ways you can assist the process to move faster.

The first thing you want to do is be sure your pet is healthy to start with. If your pet has not been to the vet already, make an appointment. Your dog should be checked for overall healthiness and for conditions that would make house training difficult, such as cystitis and kidney or bladder dysfunction. While your pet is visiting the veterinarian, ask to have them checked for worms and parasites also by way of a fecal exam. Also bear in mind the truthfulness behind mothers� wisdom when she said �You are what you eat.� A poor quality dog food, in addition to contributing to a poor nutritional state, can cause digestive problems resulting in loose stools, thus contributing to your pup�s inability to control itself.

The most important part of housebreaking your pet is close supervision. This is necessary because your puppy learns by repetition. If you see your dog showing signs of needing to relieve itself, then immediate action must be taken to get the animal outside to its designated area. Consistency in training is critical. Do not think being lax because it�s cold or dark outside is acceptable or your pet will adopt these same attitudes. Close supervision during housebreaking is also necessary because it gives you time to learn your dogs special quirks such as needing to urinate right after eating or a certain action they take prior to soiling the floor so you can watch for these actions and respond in the future. Also it allows you to correct a situation while it is still fresh in the dogs mind. While being very intelligent creatures, short term memory is not the strong point for most animals of this species and correcting them after more than a few minutes have passed serves no real purpose.

Another key to Housebreaking is giving your dog a limited amount of space. Baby gates across doorways or a pet crate help to make a more confined area and help your pet to recognize this as his living space. Their natural tendency is to go outside of their own living space to urinate so making this association for your pet will make your job easier. Lining this space with old news papers is a good idea at first as it facilitates a much easier cleanup of any accidents your pet might have. Also be aware that some surfaces are more pet-friendly than others. Try to confine your new pet to areas of the home with tile or vinyl floors which are much easier to clean. Avoid letting them have access to carpet or hardwood floors which retain odors and can be extensively damaged by an errant pup.

Remember to limit the amount of water your dog has access to at the end of the day as you will otherwise be making a walk with your pet in the middle of the night. A quick walk outside at regularly timed intervals is advisable to training as this helps your pet to set an internal schedule. Be certain to use a consistent keyword to tell your pet why you are out in the yard such as �potty� or �toilet� or anything you choose and do not return indoors until they have relieved themselves. Also remember to give praise when your dog relieves itself in appropriate places such as on newspapers or outdoors. Again consistent training is the key.

If your pet does have an accident indoors, correct the animal immediately and then clean the area using non-ammonia based products. Instead use an Enzyme based deodorizer to clean the area and be sure to remove all odor of the accident or the animal will repeat the behavior again.

If you follow these simple rules, your carpets and your new pet should be able to coexist peacefully and relatively free from stress.

November 15th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Ruff Stuff: Teaching your dog NOT to bark

Unwanted barking is one of the most common behavior problems in dogs. It is normal for dogs to vocalize and bark from time to time but many times this behavior escalates much to the frustration of many dog owners. There are many causes of unwanted barking. First you must determine why your dog is barking before you can begin a program of retraining. You may need help from your animal behaviorist or veterinarian to do this.

One cause of unwanted barking is attention seeking barking. You may have inadvertently reinforced this behavior if as a pup your dog barked a lot and you gave him attention to try and stop the behavior. As an older dog, he may be exhibiting this behavior because he is left alone for long periods of time, does not have appropriate stimulation or exercise, or is an active dog that needs to have a job to be happy. If you suspect this is the cause of your dog�s unwanted barking behavior, you can start to retrain him by making sure first and foremost that he is getting enough exercise. Make sure to take daily walks - this also allows him to explore the world around him which is good mental exercise as well. If you have a local dog park, take your dog there and let him socialize with other dogs and people. Take an obedience class - this is good for mental stimulation and will help you to better communicate with your dog. Provide many interesting toys to keep your dog busy while you are not around. Make sure to spend one on one time with your dog on a daily basis and make it fun so that your dog learns that he doesn�t need to bark to get your attention.

Another cause of excessive barking is as a response to something that your dog is afraid of. Many dogs bark during thunderstorms or around unfamiliar people. If your dog is barking as a response to thunderstorms or other loud noises, provide him with a safe place he can go in these situations such as a crate. Make his safe place fun by providing good treats such as a Kong filled with peanut butter to keep him occupied. Play a radio or the television at a low level to help mask the noise. If your dog is barking at unfamiliar people, help him get over this fear by enlisting the help of your friends and neighbors. Have them walk by and approach your dog. Have them ask him to sit, and when he does so without barking, have them give him a treat. Pretty soon, your dog will learn to associate unfamiliar people with treats and will learn new positive behaviors. If your dog barks at people and noises that are coming from outside the house, you may want to limit his access to rooms with windows. This will help cut down on the unwanted barking behavior.

If your dog is barking when you�re not home, it could be due to separation anxiety. If your dog is especially attached to you or has recently experienced a situation of change in his routine such as divorce, a move, or a death in the family, this could be the case. To remedy this kind of barking behavior, you will need to start a course of desensitization. You can begin to do this by taking very small trips such as just out to the mailbox and back, while leaving fun toys and yummy treats for your dog. As your dog learns to behave while you�re gone, slowly increase the length of time you are gone. To check and see if your dog is barking when you�re gone, you may need to use a tape recorder or enlist the help of your neighbors. Separation anxiety often needs to be treated with medication as well as desensitization. If you suspect your dog is barking due to separation anxiety, please consult your veterinarian or animal behaviorist.

Some people choose to treat their dog�s unwanted barking problems with bark collars. The most humane bark collar available today is the citronella collar. These bark collars work by spraying harmless citronella in your dog�s face whenever he barks. Studies show a very high rate of success with the use of these kinds of collars. Using a citronella collar for a period of time can help to reinforce more positive behaviors.

There are many training tips and tools available to help you replace unwanted barking with more positive behaviors. If you need more information, consult your veterinary staff or pet professional.

November 16th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Why Choke Collars Should be a Thing of the Past

Many of us think of the choke collar as an inevitable part of the dog training arsenal. Purchasing a choke collar may seem as natural as buying food bowls or a leash. Choke collars have a long history of use and have long been considered a standard element to successful dog training. However, times do change and things we once thought eternal are sometimes proven obsolete. That is the case with the choke collar. It is time to abandon the use of choke collars and to seek out alternatives.

Choke collars can be used effectively when they are operated in the correct manner. Unfortunately, most people tend not to use the device correctly. Even those who attempt to get the best possible use from a choke collar often misuse it accidentally. Considering the presence of workable alternatives, there is no reason to cling to a device that may not be correctly utilized.

For instance, proper use of a choke collar requires proper placement of the collar. Choke collars are premised on the notion that the owner/trainer will be able to, with a quick flick of the wrist, tighten the collar around the dog�s neck as a disincentive for unappreciated behavior. Likewise, a quick movement on the part of the owner/trainer can then be used to loose the tightened collar once corrected behavior is underway. In order for the collar to work in this manner, it must be placed with the moveable portion of the collar atop the neck of the dog. Otherwise an owner/trainer will be able to quickly enforce a choke but will be unable to release it as quickly.

Observe the next several dogs you see wearing choke collars. You will undoubtedly notice the number of these collars that have either been incorrectly placed on the dogs neck or, as is often the case, have slipped and readjusted to put the moveable portion in the dangerous spot of being under the dog�s neck. Training a dog in this manner does not allow for the quick release of choke necessary and risks both the dog�s health and unnecessary cruelty. Instead of mere redirection and training, an improperly used choke chain can become something just short of a torture device.

Considering the ease with which a choke collar can slip out of position�particularly when used with the unruly dogs who need training interventions the most�it does not seem as if there is a valid rationale for maintaining the collar�s use. There is simply too much risk associated with the collars.

Of course, choke collars should be promptly removed after a training walk or session. However, for a variety of reasons they are often left on when a dog is unsupervised. This can occur out of sheer ignorance of proper training techniques, by simple oversight, or when a dog breaks a leash or otherwise escapes his owner/trainer.

When worn out and about, choke collars are very dangerous. The open ring to which a leash may be attached can get caught on any number of items. Dogs, will instinctively attempt to back away when confronted with such a situation. As they struggle, the collar tightens, furthering their sense of danger that instinctively leads to even more efforts at withdrawal. This snowballing affect poses a serious danger for any dog that finds his choke collar snagged.

Some advocates of choke collars may not find these arguments compelling in their personal circumstances. They may feel as though they understand and comply with the proper use guidelines for a choke collar. Again, a choke collar can be an effective tool when used appropriately, so it is understandable that some would continue to argue for its use. However, choke collars inevitably have some risk associated with them, even in the most skilled hands.

Meanwhile, there are options that have been demonstrated as, if not more, effective for dog training that avoid those risks. Head halters and similar devices are able to get the same results without the attendant risks of the choke collar.

Considering the presence of a safer choice and the risks associated with the choke collar, it would seems as though it is time to do away with the venerable device. Despite its long history in the world of dog training, today the choke collar should be considered a thing of the past.

November 17th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

B.A.R.F. Diet: Sounds yummy but what is it?

It actually sounds kind of gross, but BARF is an acronym for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food. Many health conscious veterinarians are huge advocates for this diet which can completely replace commercially prepared dog food. One of the first proponents of the BARF diet was Dr. Ian Billinghurst who still recommends it today. He believes that it is the ultimate way to get our pets in to optimum health. Many people believe that the BARF diet simulates what your dog would eat in his natural environment.

Many people feel that there are a lot of health advantages to feeding a raw food diet. Many owners who have dogs with problems such as allergies, skin problems, weight problems, and anal gland problems have found that the bones and raw food diet has helped to significantly remedy these issues.

Some of the advantages to feeding a biologically appropriate raw food diet include no consumption of preservatives found in most commercially prepared kibble diets, it usually tastes better to your dog than regular dog food, and in general, muscle mass and body condition improve on a raw food diet. One also often finds that dogs produce fewer stools, eat more slowly, and have fewer health problems. Many advocates of the raw food diet also claim that it is less expensive than commercially manufactured dog food. One of the biggest disadvantages to this diet is that it takes longer to prepare.

If you decide that you would like to try the BARF diet with your dog, you must first do the research. There are many websites and books available to guide you through the process. Talk to your veterinarian, though many veterinarians are unfamiliar with the BARF diet. Find people in your area that feed the raw food diet to their animals. Make sure it is right for you and your dog before you try it.

The next step is to transition your dog from his commercial dog food to his new bones and raw food diet. You may want to do this gradually as oftentimes dogs develop digestive problems when switching to new diets. Some advocates of the BARF diet recommend switching your dog to the new diet cold turkey, however.

When feeding a raw food diet, you will generally want to feed your dog twice per day. The first meal of the day will usually consist of raw meat and bones like turkey or chicken legs, thighs, wings, or necks, pork riblets, lamb chops, and the like. The second meal will consist of a mush made with raw meat, fresh vegetables, and Offal (the organs parts of the meat you are feeding). Usually you will want to supplement this with cottage cheese, eggs with the shells, yogurt, fruit, fish, and recreational bones (which are the harder to chew kinds of bones). This can vary, so do your homework. You will want to avoid grains. Advocates of the biologically appropriate raw food diet agree that dogs do not have the proper digestive systems to deal with whole grains and that most food allergies are grain related.

Most advocates of the raw food diet do not recommend supplements. If you aren’t sure what to do, speak with your veterinarian.

Many people are hesitant to feed their dog a raw diet because they are concerned about their dogs choking on bones. While these incidents occur, proponents of raw food diets say they are rare, and that generally, dogs choke on cooked bones, not raw ones.

There are commercially prepared raw food diets on the market. While this is always an option for you if you choose to feed raw food, many advocates of the BARF diet recommend against it. They argue that these foods have different regulations that human grade foods, oftentimes contain unnecessary supplements, are ground foods (and the whole basis of the BARF diet is raw, meaty bones), and are much more expensive than visiting your local butcher.

If you decide that the bones and raw food diet is something that you’d like to try, first talk to your veterinarian about your decision. Then, do as much research into the diet as possible. Talk to others who feed the diet. You may find that by feeding the BARF diet you are improving the health of your dog.

November 18th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Chill Out: Keeping Your Dog Cool in the Hot Summer Sun

Summer is typically a time of great family fun and activity. The days are long and warm, the kids are on vacation, and the sun worshipers are out in full force. Unfortunately, the season also brings with it some very specific hazards - sunburn, heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Not only are these hazards a threat to your human family, they can endanger the lives of your furry family members as well. As temperatures soar, your dog will need a little attention in order to ensure his safety.

Protecting Your Dog from a Nasty Sunburn

Many people don�t realize that dogs, just like humans, can be burned by the sun. So what can you do to protect your pooch from those burning rays? Just use the same common sense and know-how that keeps you and your family from burning up in the sun. First, keep your dog in the shade during those times when the sun�s rays are most intense � approximately 10 am to 4 pm. Second, apply a little sun block to your dog�s most exposed areas � the tip of each ear and the nose. While your dog�s lip area is also vulnerable to sunburn, the chance that your dog will ingest any sunscreen applied there is too great. Instead of applying sunscreen to the lip area, just keep a close eye on it and make sure that the area doesn�t get too pink. Third, pay special attention to your dog if he has a lighter colored fur. Just like their pale human counterparts, these dogs are more vulnerable to the burning effects of the sun. If, after a day out in the sun, any portion of your dog�s skin is reddened or blistered, immediately seek a veterinarian�s opinion and care.

Protecting Your Dog from Heat-Related Conditions

Just a few simple actions on your part can help protect your dog from heat exhaustion and heat stroke. First, never leave your dog in the car without the air conditioner running. Even a few minutes in the sun can send the interior temperature of a car (with windows open or closed) soaring to fatal temperatures. If you�re doing errands and know that you�ll be in and out of the vehicle, your safest option is to simply leave the dog at home. However, if you really must leave your dog in the car for even the shortest period of time, leave the air conditioner on.

Second, provide your dog with a shaded, well-ventilated resting area that will remain shaded at all times, regardless of the sun�s position. You may have to move the dog�s shade throughout the day in order to achieve this. Of course, during the most excruciating heat of the day, the ideal place for your dog is an air conditioned structure.

Third, make sure that your dog has unhindered access to cool, clean water. You�ll want to place the water in a shaded area so that it does not heat up as a result of direct sunlight. Change the water often, as stagnant water can harbor bacteria and insects that are harmful to a dog�s digestive system. When traveling, make sure that you have a water dish and fresh water (figure on one gallon per day) on hand at all times. If your dog spends all day outside, provide him with a small, shaded wading pool filled with water. Your dog can cool himself off throughout the day by jumping in and out of it. Make sure, however, that the pool is in the same, consistently shaded area as the drinking water.

Fourth, avoid any situation that would force your dog to stand on a sun-baked surface for any length of time. Such surfaces include truck beds, sidewalks, streets and beach sand. The heat can not only burn your dog�s skin, but can also prevent your dog from efficiently expelling heat from his body. If you must walk your dog in the heat of the day, walk him on a grassy area.

Recognizing and Treating Your Dog�s Heat Stroke

If your dog�s body temperature gets too high, he could develop heat stroke, or hyperthermia. In addition to a high body temperature (over 105 � 110 degrees F), the signs that indicate potential heat stroke are: an inordinate amount of panting, labored breathing, bright red gums or eye membranes, pronounced fatigue, collapse, unconsciousness and seizures. If your dog displays any of these symptoms, get him out of the heat immediately and into the shade. If possible, put your dog in a tub of cool water or bathe him with a series of cool, wet towels. Do not use cold water or ice! Either will cause your dog�s blood vessels to constrict and impede the body from being able to release heat. Heat stroke should be treated as an emergency; therefore, as soon as possible, seek a veterinarian�s care.

November 19th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Fur Tamers: How to keep your dog’s coat looking at its best

Dogs, unlike cats, don�t sit and groom themselves by the hour. Actually, most dogs couldn�t care less about their appearance and couldn�t be happier than when they�re rolling around the ground on something stinky they�ve found. Unfortunately for them, �essence of fido� isn�t a favorite scent of humans and wading through bales of shedding dog hair left on the furniture is way overrated. So until our canine companions totally take over, they�ll have to live with us grooming them and trying to keep their coats healthy and shiny looking.

Pet salons provide a full array of grooming services and many people opt to avail themselves of their services. Prices are usually reasonable and all the mess and fuss are left to the professionals. However, for a variety of reasons not everyone elects to go this route; some don�t bother grooming at all and others just do it themselves at home.

To varying degrees, all dogs require grooming. Long-haired dogs should be brushed and combed two or three times a week. Dogs with thick undercoats should have the dead hair combed out weekly. This will accelerate the shedding process and avoid hairy carpets and furniture. Dogs with shorter hair should still be brushed and rubbed down frequently to keep their coats and skin smart and healthy.

Just like any project, proper grooming requires both technique and tools of the trade. A fine-toothed comb should be used to rake fleas from the coat and for grooming soft, silky coated dogs. The shedding comb offers a �skip-tooth� design; its long teeth pull dead hair from the undercoat while the short teeth collect loose hair. It�s also an excellent tool for removing matted hair. The undercoat rake is especially designed for breeds with thick, heavy coats and undercoats. The teeth are thick, allowing the rake to attack the undercoat while being pulled gently through the dog�s hair.

Although bathing is an essential component in keeping your dog�s coat fresh and presentable, it should not be overdone. Most veterinarians suggest bathing a dog no more than once a month. Over bathing can dry a dog�s skin and lead to hot spots and itching, which can lead to scratching and infection. If a dog is to be bathed more than once a month, an aloe based shampoo and conditioners should be used and foods and supplements with Omega fatty acids should be given to bolster the production of coat oils.

Daily examinations, though admittedly a little too demanding and time consuming for the average pet owner, are a valuable tool in maintaining a dog�s appearance and good health. The dog should be checked for cuts, rashes, fleas, ticks, bumps and burrs and other hitchhikers that might attach to the coat. These should be removed and antibiotics or appropriate medications applied as necessary. Flea allergies and contact allergies can cause skin eruptions and should be treated immediately.

It should be remembered that good skin and a healthy coat begin with a good diet. A little amount of �people food� goes a long way for a dog. Usually, a good grade dry dog food will provide all of the nutrition and essential dietary elements necessary to keep a dog in good health. If a dog�s coat is dull or its skin appears itchy, sometimes a change in diet is necessary. However, most often vitamin or fatty acid supplements will eliminate the problem.

As mentioned previously, professional groomers are readily available and should not be overlooked if grooming becomes too demanding. In addition to bathing and combing and thinning the dog�s undercoat, they also clean the ears and clip the dog�s nails. Actually, nails should be clipped weekly and often this is a chore that neither the dog nor the owner handle well. In recent years, the traveling groomer has emerged on the grooming scene. These professionals will come to your home in their Van or RV, which is fully equipped for grooming, and complete the full bathing and grooming process right in your driveway.

Our dogs ask little in return for the limitless love and devotion they bestow upon us. Helping them maintain their health by keeping them groomed is the least we can do to reward their affection.

November 20th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO HEEL

One of the first commands your dog learns should be the �HEEL� command. This command will be helpful in insuring the safety of your pet while out in public and will make you look like the owner of a well-mannered and lovable pet. To add to the beauty of all this, the command itself is quite simple and almost any dog can learn the meaning of the command with 30 minutes or so of effort.

So what is the function of the �heel� command? This one word command tells your dog that the animal is to walk directly at your side, not before or after you. This provides safety for your pet in public places as well as for yourself. The command keeps your pet at your side rather than running through the picnic blankets of park goers and, if you own a larger more menacing breed, makes you seem a less approachable target to would-be criminal elements.

Wow, that sounds great… How do I teach my pet? Well, it isn�t as difficult as you might think. There are two general methods of training. One uses only positive reinforcement and the other uses a mixture of both positive and negative tactics. First we will discuss the positive reinforcement method.

In this method, you must first place your dog on a short leash and procure several of the dogs favorite food treats, a few pieces of dry kibble from the animals dog food is normally suitable. Decide which side you prefer your dog to walk on and train from this side in the following manner. With the dog by your side, facing in the same direction, place a treat in your hand next to your hip. In a firm, yet gentle voice, say �heel� and walk forward. When the dog responds by stepping with you, praise them and reward them with the treat. Remember to be consistent and not to reward before the action is carried out, yet always reward for a good performance. With a lot of patience, this method will work well for most dogs and results in a close bonding of the pet to the owner. However, some dogs are just naturally harder to train, just like some people. If you are blessed with one of these independent and strong willed pets then you might have to avail yourself of a different method of training, which was mentioned earlier in this discussion.

To use the second training method, you must start with a slightly longer leash of approximately seven to ten feet. Allow your pet a few moments to explore the boundaries of the leash and understand how it works. Then call the animal to your side and position yourself as before with the animal next to you, facing the same direction. In a firm voice, say �heel� and walk forward. At this time, the dog will probably not walk with you. It will, instead, begin to explore most likely running in a different direction than where you are leading. To correct this behavior, turn in the opposite direction of the pets� direction of travel and take a few steps forward, quite briskly, as you raise the leash to shoulder height and let it play out behind you. The result of this action will be seen as the animal quickly reaches the end of the leash and their forward momentum teaches them the age old physics lesson that �Every action has an equal and opposite reaction.� The animal will quite quickly learn that to disobey the heel command results in a discomforting feeling from the sudden stop at the end of the leash and, after a short while, will learn to obey the command. When the pet reaches the state of obedience, be sure to reward them with lots of positive reinforcements, such as play time and treats, along with rich verbal praise.

Whichever of these methods you choose in the training of your pet, the �heel� command is sure to go a long way in making you a much happier pet owner who will be proud to show your pet anywhere. Remember to train with love, patience and consistency and your pet will reward you with loyalty and many, many years of companionship.

November 21st, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO SIT

Few things in life are prettier than watching a well-trained dog and one of the basic commands is the sit command. There are several methods of teaching your dog to sit. Two of the most popular are the Click and the Compulsory methods. The Click method is based again on purely positive reinforcement while the Compulsory method uses both positive and negative reinforcements. Let�s begin our discussion with the easier of the two, The Click Method.

The Click Method of training a dog to sit is based upon rewarding the animal for the desired behavior. It gets its name from the idea that some audible queue is used to alert the animal of a pending reward with many trainers using a device called a clicker for this purpose. Whenever the audible queue is given, the reward follows immediately. To train a dog to sit by this method requires little effort on the trainers� part. One begins by lavishing the dog with several treats, one right after the other while giving the audible queue. Then abruptly stop the shower of treats and wait for the animal to direct its attention to you. Now display a treat and give the audible queue as you give the treat to the pet. Now hold another treat at chest level so that the dog must look up to see the treat. After a few minutes, your pet will likely sit down on its haunches because this position makes it much easier to watch the treat. Immediately, when this happens, give the audible queue and reward the pet. Repeat this lesson several times. After a while you will notice your pet sitting in anticipation of the click and the reward so it is now time to add your verbal command to the routine. When the dog begins to sit, say �sit�. This will gradually teach the dog that the command precedes the action and they will learn the meaning of the command in this way. After some practice and a bit of patience, your dog should begin to sit without having to see a reward being offered.

Now let�s discuss the more traditional method of training…. The Compulsory Method. This is the method grand dad used on his dogs. Tell the puppy to sit while enforcing it. Saying the verbal command �sit� and pushing down on the puppy�s tail section to make it contact the floor accomplish the lesson. With some dogs you might have to hold their chin up during this process or they will go ahead and lie down. The object behind the lesson is to teach the pup when you say �sit� that there is no other choice but to sit and so eventually the animal will respond on its own rather than having to be coaxed into position. Some owners use a tool called a choke collar for this training method. They will leash the dog with the choke collar in place and upon the sit command push the dog down. At the same time they will hold the choke collar down by way of the leash allowing only enough slack for the dog to sit but not stand up. If the dog tries to stand the choke collar tightens around the animals� neck producing extreme discomfort. The author does not recommend this method as it can produce a nervous and fearful animal, which can become quite aggressive when it feels threatened. Such training also makes leash training much more difficult as it teaches the animal to fear the leash because of the pain inflicted by it. This also tends to lessen the bond between master and dog because the dog comes to associate the master with the pain and discomfort as well and may lash out at the owner or others if the treatment continues.

In whichever method you choose for training your pet, one thing remains constant. Always be consistent. Also be sure to pour lavish affection upon your pet for good behaviors and responses as this improves their bond to you and makes them desire to please you more fully. With a moderate amount of time and patience, your dog will be rivaling any animal presented at the local dog competitions for his well-trained style and mannerisms.

November 22nd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Improving Your Dog’s Behavior Through Exercise

We�ve all heard the old saying �idle hands are the devil�s tools.� The popularity of the adage stems from its validity. Those who are not able to keep themselves busy are far more apt to fill their time with inappropriate acts. If re-written to apply to man�s best friend, the notion that �idle paws are the devil�s tools� would ring true, as well. A dog who is not sufficiently engaged in physical activity is far more likely to present behavioral challenges.

Often, we hear complaints about dogs who are simply uncontrollable. They engage in destructive behaviors without any apparent or obvious reason. They may dig the dreaded backyard holes, destroy property or simply be difficult animals with whom to get along. These problems can be the outgrowth of any number of things, but quite often the root cause of such difficulties nothing more than idleness. A dog that is not sufficiently exercised will find other outlets for his energies. Unfortunately, when left to his own devices to find an outlet, a dog may very well choose less than appreciated activity.

Professional trainers have long understood the value of exercising a dog. Not only is the physical activity beneficial to the animal�s health. Regular exercise in a controlled manner also serves to decrease the likelihood of destructive and inappropriate behavior. Instead of needing to invent means by which to expend his energy, the dog is exercised in a directed manner and incidents of inappropriate behavior decline.

Put simply, if you don�t find a way to wear out your dog, your dog will find a way to wear you out! His idle paws will become a source of great frustration if not otherwise occupied. Thus, exercising your dog consistently will improve his behavior a great deal.

Many dog owners, however, find it difficult to find ways to sufficiently exercise their pet. This could be due to schedule or space limitations. Fortunately, there are a variety of means to exercise a dog.

The most traditional means of dog exercising remains one of the most effective: simply walking the dog can do wonders. We too often have a tendency to reduce walking the dog to a jaunt as short as is necessary for him to tend to his elimination needs. Although dog walking certainly serves this purpose, it is important to recognize that the act of walking one�s dog also holds the promise of improving his behavior through exercise. Instead of cutting a walk short once his �business� is done, it is better to continue the walk for a longer period of time. Use the walk as exercise�as well as a great bonding opportunity.

Playing fetch is another great means by which a dog can be exercised. Even in an enclosed space, a smaller dog can get quite a workout from a brisk game of fetch. For those owners who are not feeling particular active, it is a great alternative to an extended walk, as it requires little or no real effort on the part of the owner. One can play fetch indoors with a smaller dog while watching a television program or simply relaxing in an easy chair.

Some have found they are able to train their dogs to walk on an indoor treadmill. If your dog is receptive to utilizing a treadmill, you can gain all of the advantages of lengthy walks without having to leave your home. Using a treadmill may not interest all dogs, however, and one is advised not to purchase a treadmill solely for use by a dog for that very reason.

There really is not limit to the number of ways one can find to exercise their dog. Every dog and every situation is at least slightly different, but all hold in common the presence of opportunities for quality exercise. These opportunities cannot be overlooked. Regular and significant exercise will improve a dog�s health, create more opportunity for dog and owner interaction and can lead to amazing improvements in behavior.

You can recapture your dog�s paws from the hands of the devil! If your dog tends to be difficult, implement a regular exercise regime. There is a strong chance that simple change will have a profound impact on his behavior.

November 23rd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Field Trials for your Sporting Dog

For those of you who aren�t too familiar with the term �field trials,� it is a sport in which the sporting dog competes under hunting conditions. The dog can pick up the scent of a rabbit or small animal and follow the trail until he�s found it. There is also the bird trials where the animal retrieves a fallen bird. During competition, the different breeds are divided into various groups. The following groups are: Pointing Dog Trials, Retriever Trials, Spaniel Trials, Beagle Trials & Hound Trials. The following guidelines are an example of what is expected before entering your sporting dog.

If a club is hosting a trial, they must advertise the trial with a fitting advertisement which states the following information: date of actual trial along with the place, location of drawing, time of drawing, sponsoring stakes and lastly, the contact person�s name, city and state.

The next condition for entering is the age of the dog. There are two seasons. If you are interested in entering your puppy in the current season�s Puppy Stakes competition (July 1-December 31, 2005, he must be whelped (born) on or subsequent to June 1, 2004. The next half of the season is from (January1-June 30, 2006), the dog must be whelped on January 1, 2005 or after this date.

Before entering your dog in a trial, make sure you have all information on the dog being entered. It is very important that all information is put on the entry form. It will consist of the dog�s name, the breed of the dog, registration number, color, sex and sire and dam�s names.

�Field trialer� is the name of the owner or handler of the sporting dog. Field trials is an enjoyable sport for field trialers because of the exercise as well as the excitement of seeing their dogs follow a trail. Talking with other field trialers is another thrill of competing.

If you are new to the sport or just getting started, it can be mind boggling choosing just the right dog, especially if you don�t even know how to get started. The first decision in choosing a sporting dog is deciding which pedigree you want. When choosing a dog, if possible, find out information about the sire and dam. What kind of accomplishments have they achieved? What are their strengths and weaknesses?

It�s a good idea to watch a particular breed in action to see if that�s what you�re looking for in a sporting dog. Also talk to other field trialers who are more experienced in this area. They may be able to recommend a breeder. You can also read magazines or books on the subject. Find out as much information as you can before you choose your sporting dog.

Once you�ve chosen a puppy, look the puppy over from front to back. Look for flaws in the structure of the puppy. Does he have unsteady balance? Are his hind legs weak or stiff? Are the front legs bowed? Serious flaws can prevent the dog from performing well out in the field. The fields are not easy obstacles. There may be bushes the dog may have to maneuver through and other obstructions in the way. The dog must be healthy and strong in order to maneuver quickly.

Many field trialers will refer to the nose of the dog as being the animal�s ability to find the scent and pursue. Each dog has its own personality as to how he pursues the game. Some can be very aggressive, while others are more cautious. Each dog may have its own style which is what makes them so unique. One style is not better than another. It is really up to the field trialer as to what he likes better. The way the dog follows the scent is not the most important aspect of the sport. The most important aspect is that he finds the trail and stays on it until he finds the game. How well does their nose perform. When they do lose the rabbit, how far do they wonder off course? Do they try picking up the scent again, once they lost it? These are questions to ask yourself about your sporting dog.

Field trailing is an exciting sport, not only for the sporting dog, but also for the field trialer. If this sport sounds interesting to you, get involved with various clubs that support this type of sport. Go out and give it a try.

November 24th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Your Child vs. Your Pet: How to Keep the Peace

How will my dog and my new baby get along? Will I have to get rid of my loyal, furry companion in order to ensure the safety of my child? These are the questions that plague many dog owners as they anticipate the birth and homecoming of their first child. The good news is that even though the process of introducing your dog to your newest family addition is a careful and cautious one, it�s not impossible. With some pre-planning on your part, you can train your dog to get along with your child and can raise your child to respect and love your dog as much as you do.

Getting Your Pet Used to a Baby

So, you�re expecting a baby. Congratulations! This is a time of change, discovery and joy like no other. If you are a dog owner, however, your happiness may be tempered by thoughts of your dog and how your �fur baby� will react to all of these monumental changes. Fear not! If you start preparing your dog for the baby�s arrival well in advance of the baby�s due date, you should be able to minimize any associated conflicts or problems.

If your dog currently has access to all rooms in the house, get him used to not entering which ever room will serve as the nursery. Keep that door closed so your dog will not consider it part of his regular territory. Then, get the dog used to your being in the room without him. Keep the nursery door closed while you�re assembling baby furniture or decorating the room. This way, the dog will learn that even though there is activity there, he is not a part of it. Make sure, though, to pay a little extra attention to your dog once you leave the nursery and return to his territory.

Has your dog been to obedience school? If not, now is a great time for you both to go. Not only will it allow you to spend some quality time together before the baby comes, it will give you the tools necessary to control your dog�s behavior. It will also help your dog get used to being in a room full of activity, other dogs and (maybe) children. This aspect of obedience school is an especially important one if your pre-baby household has been a relatively quiet one.

Another way to get your dog used to some of the noises a baby brings is to buy some tapes of babies crying. Start playing the tapes at a very low volume until the dog seems not to notice the sound anymore. Then, gradually increase the volume until it reaches a realistic level (the process should take place over days and weeks, not all in one day). When your baby cries at home, your dog will be less startled.

When your baby finally comes home, keep the dog away from the infant for the first few days. He should already be used to baby noises, but get him used to the baby�s smell by putting one of the baby�s blankets in his resting or sleeping area. When it�s time to introduce your baby and dog to each other, keep the dog on a short leash and reward him during the introductions. This will reinforce the idea that the baby is a positive thing. Also, pay attention to your dog while he and the baby are in the same room. This will help your dog avoid seeing the baby as a threat or something that is taking you away from him. No matter how well trained your dog is, though, never leave the baby alone with him.

Take extra care as your child enters the crawling and walking stage. Depending on the breed, your dog may be absolutely terrified of this little crawling creature or he may view your child as prey. Neither of these scenarios is permanent, though. Your dog just has to get used to your baby moving itself around as opposed to being carried around. Keep your dog next to you while the baby is crawling or walking and reward him for being still (this is where the obedience training comes in really handy!). Your dog will most likely get used to your child�s new movements in no time at all.

Teaching Your Child How to Properly Interact with the Family Dog

As your child grows, it�s important to teach him or her how to properly deal with and treat the family dog (or any dog, for that matter). Teach your child from early on to �play nice� with the dog. Teach him or her not to pull the dog�s fur, strike the dog or startle the dog on purpose. Dogs are animals and their first instincts, when faced with a threat, may lead them to bite or growl.

Your child should also be taught not to chase a dog when it�s running away from them or to bother it when it�s sleeping or eating. Teaching your child that a dog is a living creature, not a toy, will go a long way toward preventing some avoidable acts of aggression.

November 25th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Got Allergies? How to choose a hypoallergenic dog

For people that love dogs, yet have allergic reactions to them, there is a simple alternative. If you can�t do without a four legged �friend,� choosing a hypoallergenic dog is the best alternative. For those who are scratching their heads, a hypoallergenic dog is not a special breed of dogs. They are dogs that generate less (hypo) allergens (allergenic) in the air, which has a lot to do with the dog�s physical size and length of its fur. For allergy sufferers, finding an allergy-friendly dog is the most reasonable choice. This doesn�t mean that the dog will be completely allergy proof, but it does mean that this type of dog tends to generate less amounts of allergy causing elements. It is impossible to find a dog that causes no degree of allergens.

Allergy reactions from dogs can consist of skin rashes, watery and itchy eyes, sneezing and a stuffy nose. More serious reactions are wheezing, asthma attacks and not being able to breathe deeply. These can be frightening reactions and choosing not to have a pet, for these reasons, out ways the benefits of having one. For dog lovers, who suffer with allergies, this is a hard fact to accept. The reason some people suffer from simple pet hair is because of their immune system. They are hypersensitive to the components found on the dog hair. Many people think it is the animal hair that causes the problem, but in reality it is what attaches itself to the pet hair. The dog�s hair picks up pollen and dust attaching itself to the hair follicle. With normal movements, the elements are distracted on whatever it comes across. Hence, larger and longer haired dogs have a tendency to generate more allergens than smaller and shorter haired dogs Therefore, the bigger the dog, the more allergy components it will distract.

If choosing a dog from a breeder, try spending at least 30 minutes playing with the dog and being in the dog�s area to see how you react to it. If you have a severe reaction in that amount of time, then you can be assured that having it as a live-in would not be a good idea. If you�re choosing a breeder who lives a substantial distance away, send a clothing item to the breeder and ask them to place it near the dog for a day and send it back to you in a plastic bag. Wear the clothing item or breathe in the smell and see how you react. If no reaction, you might want to consider visiting the breeder in person. If you do get a negative reaction, it�s best not to waste your time visiting in person. The allergic reaction would probably be worse if you were around the real thing.

Another thing you might want to consider when choosing a dog is the temperament. You want to choose a dog that will meet your needs, and you in turn, can meet its needs as well. Not only do you want to choose an allergy-friendly dog, but if you have a family, you want one that is family-friendly as well. Here are a few breeds to consider: Bichon Frise, Irish Terrier, Poodles. These dogs enjoy family surroundings, they�re excellent with children and they make great watch dogs. They also have low shedding levels. If you are a single adult, you might want to consider a dog that is happy with minimal people surroundings. A couple of good choices would be Chihuahua or a Portuguese Water Dog. These dogs tend to bond with one person rather than several.

Here are a few dogs to stay away from due to their high shedding ability. They are: Cocker Spaniels, Irish Setters, Dachshunds, Basset hounds, German Shepherds and Afghan Hounds.

If you choose an indoor dog, it�s best to choose one that can be groomed regularly or that you can bath easily. It�s best to bath them at least 1-2 times per week. This will reduce the amount of pet dander. Taking care of your dog�s hair is an important part of reducing the components that cause allergies. You can even choose a hairless dog such as the Chinese Crested, American Hairless Terrier or the Mexican Hairless.

Some people claim that certain breeds bring out the worst in their allergies than others. In choosing a breed, be open to find the best one that fits your lifestyle.

November 25th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Differences in Training for Hunting Dogs

As the old song said there is a time for every purpose and the same is true for training your dog. Just as different jobs require different skills and different tools, dogs used in specialized areas require specialized training. For this discussion, we will look at the hunting dog and what specialized training is required for them to be useful members of the team.

Since prehistoric time, man has kept pets and dogs are no exception. What is interesting is that this animal has maintained so much of its history over the years and, yet, has also diversified into other areas of our lives. There is no doubt that the original dogs were kept for hunting purposes rather than companionship but over the years that relationship has evolved to include not only hunting, but also protection from enemies, companionship, guide services and tracking. Also interesting is the fact that while our hunting techniques and tools have evolved our uses for the hunting dog have retained much of their historical ambience. Dogs are still used for the purposes of flushing game from hiding spots and tracking wounded prey, much as they were used thousands of years ago. One major change has been made though… we rarely expect our pets to actually kill the quarry anymore. The dog now occupies more of a retrieval status and it is quite possible to hunt a whole lifetime and never avail you of the services of a hunting dog. But what fun would that be? In a world that has changed so quickly and moves so fast, it is important to retain part of our history and thus we keep the dog as our ever-faithful hunting companion. Even in hunting, however, dogs still require specific training.

The first step in training a hunting dog is made before the animal is ever acquired. You must decide what kind of dog, your sport requires. Many breeds have been refined for certain hunting activities and this must be taken into consideration. Just as you would not take a dachshund on a lion hunt, you shouldn�t expect your wolfhound to crawl down a badger den. Decide upon a hunting style and then pick the animal best suited to it. Are you a rabbit or squirrel-hunting fan? Then perhaps the beagle or basset hound would be to your liking. Do you prefer the challenge of hunting quail, dove or pheasant? Maybe you should consider one of the breeds of pointers. Do you like the peaceful calm of long hours spent in a duck blind on a cool morning? A retriever is probably the perfect choice for you. Take the time and do the research. There is a dog bred for nearly every type of hunting and even a few breeds that cross boundaries into different platforms.

The second difference in a hunting dogs training is the training goal itself. While it is desirable to almost completely remove aggressive behavior in a companion animal, it is advisable to leave some of this instinct intact for hunting animals. The reason behind this is simple. These animals spend long hours and sometimes days in the field and may encounter danger from wildlife or even wounded prey. Also the first time your untrained dog hands you a squirrel that is stunned and not completely dead, you will understand the reason for leaving the aggressive instinct in the animal. (Authors note: Promptly seek medical attention to have the finger the squirrel bit off reattached… Duct Tape won�t fix everything no matter what the label tells you. ) All humor aside, a mildly aggressive hunting animal is more of a benefit than a detriment as long as the animal still gives up the prey without a fight.

Another aspect of training a hunting animal is to teach them to behave independently. Many types of hunting require that the hunting dogs will usually lead ahead of the hunter by great distances. They must be able to act upon their own without fear of them running away or getting into trouble. Another point that might seem a trifle silly; A hunting dog must not be gun shy. Owning a $1500 bird dog that just ran yelping over the hill, never to be seen again, when you fired a shot is not good training or a good investment.

So remember when picking your hunting companion… Choose the breed appropriately, train them correctly, and know your dog. With these basics, hunting with dogs can be a great hobby.

November 26th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Pure Breed or Mix? Are There Training Differences?

The pure bred dog is something fine to look upon. It is an animal that has been refined over the centuries to reach its pure, unadulterated state today. These dogs have been bred for temper and bloodline from early times. Yet there is a dog that goes back in history even further… The Mixed Breed or Mutt as some people would call them. This dog is a very ancient mix of pedigrees that, while not always the best of mixes, is most assuredly unique. The temperament of these animals is usually quite good and they tend not to have the congenital defects of their pure bred counterparts. It is possible to produce similar animals thru breeding efforts but as a general rule, mixed breeds are generally a unique animal that won�t be replicated. But what of their training capacity? Is there any reason to train these animals in any different manner than their pure bred brethren?

By and large, the answer is no. These animals are fully capable of learning any behavior that the pure breed is capable of and usually more. Due to better temperaments and high intelligence, these mixed breed animals frequently score quite highly in obedience pre-tests and are very trainable. While pure breed animals have been refined over the centuries, this has occasionally led to inbreeding of the animals and the specific breed has suffered in the way of congenital defects and maladjusted temperaments. The mongrel has not been so afflicted and while it may not always have the handsome lines of a Great Dane or the gorgeous coat of the Chow Chow, it can certainly have the better characteristics inherited from either of these lines and more. A mixed breed dog can have the house pet qualities of a Poodle alongside the protective qualities of a Doberman and the maternal eye of a Saint Bernard. While possessing all of these qualities, the mixed breed may leave behind the overly aggressive and high strung tendencies of the pure bred ancestry. This figured into the equation along with the price factor of the animals and it is quite easy to see why so many households happily have a mixed breed pet. These animals have the ability to display intelligence, show care, obey commands and circumvent obstacles. They have been doing so for thousands of years and show no signs of stopping.

The only real difference between training of a mixed breed animal and a pure breed dog is the ability to cross platforms with less transition trouble. If your dog is a mix between, say, an Irish Setter and a Red Bone Coon Hound, then you have a dog that quite possibly could be trained in the hunting of both birds and game mammals without much confusion. Perhaps the mix is between a Husky and a German Shepherd? This would give you a large dog with both good defense skills and the muscle for real workouts like long days of hiking. Thus by a simple exchange, you can gain much for very little loss. The animal may no longer be pure bred and the aesthetic quality may, or may not, degenerate a bit but you gain much in the way of a responsive and easily trained dog. Looking at these facts, it is hard to understand why the world has such a population explosion of homeless mixed breed pets. After all, the animal seems to be the better choice from the trainer�s point of view.

That being said there are instances where a mixed breed of dog is not acceptable. If you are training animals for the purpose of professional dog showing competitions, then by all means choose a pure breed animal and train them for the specific purposes for which the breed was created. Also for certain usages such as military animals, pure breeds seem to be the animal of choice for the purpose of uniform appearance, although a number of military animals do not meet this qualification. Aside form these or a similar circumstance, the author sees no reason to limit your search for a pet to strictly pure breed animals. Rather, do something good for yourself and for the homeless pet population and adopt a mixed breed animal.

November 27th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

TOOLS FOR TRAINING

In the dog trainers� arsenal of tools and tactics, there are many great items that will assist in the task and make things much easier for you. Items such as clickers, leashes of different varieties, halters, electronic collars, electronic and chemical training aids, muzzles and treat carriers all have their place in the trainers world and can prove very useful in your efforts to train your dog. Let�s take a few minutes to explore some of the various tools of the trade.

We shall begin our discussion with the clicker. This handy device is usually made up of a small plastic box with a piece of formed metal inside of it. It emits a clicking noise by pressing down and then releasing the metal. This sound is a quick attention getter for most dogs and once they are taught to recognize the sound, they can discern it even over much background noise or relatively long distances. It is used a great deal by trainers who focus mainly on positive reinforcements.

Next in line are a variety of leashes. These handy tools can range from a very short leash with less than eighteen inches of length to an extremely long leash of twenty feet or more. The shorter leashes are used for more control when working on training an animal for up close behaviors such as the Sit, Heel and Stay commands or when walking thru large crowds where longer leashes could pose dangers for your dog or other people. The longer leashes are used for behaviors that allow more freedom and come with some nice features such as the retractable leash which is essentially a long leash on a spring loaded spool that will allow the dog to explore at a distance but will coil itself back as the animal returns, thus preventing trip hazards and tangling. In the same group as leashes, we find the halter which is essentially an extension of the collar, which forms itself around the upper torso of the dog thus allowing more control for the owner and less strain on the dogs� neck. Halters are also made use of for working dogs such as Seeing Eye dogs and police or military animals.

After the leashes we find another control device; the electronic collar. These negative reinforcement devices come in two major categories, sonic and shock emitting. The sonic version is the more humane of the two and emits a discomforting sound when the dog performs a certain disagreeable behavior such as traveling beyond the limits of an invisible fence perimeter or jumping onto furniture. The second version works in the same manner but has the added enforcement of delivering a painful electric shock.

There is also a variety of training aids, both electronic and chemical based, for combating specific behaviors. One of the most popular electronic aids is the electronic shock mat, which is placed on furniture to keep your pet from jumping onto your leather couch or expensive recliners. These devices emit a mild but persuasive electrical shock when the pet comes into contact with them. (A cautionary note: Don�t forget to remove these items before you sit down on the furniture. It might prove to be a shocking experience. ) Chemical based training aids include such products as Bitter Apple sprays or creams, which are used to prevent chewing or self-mutilation behaviors. Other such products are administered as a dietary supplement to produce calmness in excessively overactive dogs or to stop a dog from eating feces.

Some trainers also use muzzles as a way to curb nipping behaviors. It is a good idea to give your pet at least some familiarity with this item as many veterinarian offices now use them to avoid injury to the staff during procedures such as nail clipping or shots and it can be very stressful on a pet who has never encountered the device before. Muzzles are also useful in training dogs to stop barking and to avoid aggressive behaviors and injuries when a gathering of many animals is expected or when introducing your pet to a new animal in the household such as the family cat.

Last but not least, and certainly the most appreciated by your dog, are the special treat carriers that have become quite popular in training circles. These carriers provide a clean way for you to carry a whole days worth of treats on your side without having to dirty your pockets or have your hands full constantly. They are an excellent choice for outdoors types who take their dogs on back packing adventures or for a days hunting as they provide an ample supply of treats and they are relatively light and easy to carry.

This listing was composed of just a few basic tools of the trade. There are many other training aids that we do not have time to discuss here but feel free to visit your local pet store and find out more about the ever growing line of pet supplies and how they can aid you in your training ventures.

November 28th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Problem Dogs; Dealing with a Nuisance, Even When He Is Your Own

You love your dog, but sometimes he can be a real pain! If you know what might be causing his annoying behavior, though, you might be able to do something about it.

Digging

Some dogs just love to dig holes! Their reasons for doing so, however, will vary depending on the breed and the situation. Your dog might be digging holes out of sheer boredom. If you suspect this might be the case, simply exercise your dog more frequently. Hell be too tired to dig. Maybe your male dog is digging in order to get to the female dog that is in heat next door. In this case, having your dog neutered will solve the problem. If your dog is digging holes to bury items or just for the sake of digging, then set aside one area in which he can engage in that behavior. Protect the rest of your yard by spraying a non-toxic dog repellant in and around the off-limit areas.

Barking

A dog that barks all the time, for no apparent reason, is not only a nuisance to the owner, but can be a nuisance to an entire neighborhood as well. The most common reason for consistent barking is boredom and loneliness. Have your neighbors told you that your dog barks all day long while youre at work? If so, then you should consider enrolling your dog in doggie day care. There will be plenty of activities to keep him busy all day long and hell have lots of other dogs to play with. If day care isnt an option, make sure that your dog has plenty of toys to keep him occupied while youre away from home. You might also try leaving the radio or television on while youre gone hearing human voices might help your dog feel less lonely.

Destructive Chewing

Most dogs engage in destructive chewing for one of three reasons: teething, attention or boredom. If your puppy is chewing up everything he can sink his little teeth into, theres a good chance that he is simply teething. Make sure to provide the teething puppy with lots of chewable toys so that he wont go after your shoes or other household objects. If your dog isnt teething, then perhaps hes engaging in this destructive behavior in order to get your attention. If you dont spend a lot of time with your dog, but will chase him around for hours if he has your favorite shoe in his mouth, then your dog will understand very quickly that this is an effective way to get you to play with him. Spend more time with your dog and you may get him to stop chewing up things around the house. Bored dogs are also inclined to become chewers. If theres nothing or no one to play with, theyll make their own fun at the expense of your furniture and clothing. Provide your dog with plenty of toys and activities to keep him occupied.

Jumping

You might think its adorable when your big dog greets you at the door by jumping up on you and licking your face, but most of your guests probably wont get the same kick out of this behavior. When a small puppy jumps on you its cute because you can control him and hes not heavy enough to knock you over. Not so with adult dogs. Having a large dog hurl himself at you is not an experience that most people, even dog lovers, enjoy. So, how do you get your dog to stop jumping as a way of greeting you and your guests? Consistent training is really the only way. Ideally, you should begin discouraging this behavior when the dog is still a puppy. If you are unable to get your dog to stop jumping up onto people, then a stint at obedience school is highly recommended.

Disobedience

Most of the time, dogs disobey their owners because theyre not sure what is expected of them. In order to get your dog to be consistently obedient, you have to spend lot of time training him. Obedience training should start when the dog is still a puppy and be reinforced throughout the years. Some owners can train their dogs without any outside assistance; however, most will need to enroll themselves and their dog in a local obedience school. You and your dog will enjoy your time together much more once you can communicate effectively with each other.

November 29th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Differences in Training for Hunting Dogs

As the old song said there is a time for every purpose and the same is true for training your dog. Just as different jobs require different skills and different tools, dogs used in specialized areas require specialized training. For this discussion, we will look at the hunting dog and what specialized training is required for them to be useful members of the team.

Since prehistoric time, man has kept pets and dogs are no exception. What is interesting is that this animal has maintained so much of its history over the years and, yet, has also diversified into other areas of our lives. There is no doubt that the original dogs were kept for hunting purposes rather than companionship but over the years that relationship has evolved to include not only hunting, but also protection from enemies, companionship, guide services and tracking. Also interesting is the fact that while our hunting techniques and tools have evolved our uses for the hunting dog have retained much of their historical ambience. Dogs are still used for the purposes of flushing game from hiding spots and tracking wounded prey, much as they were used thousands of years ago. One major change has been made though… we rarely expect our pets to actually kill the quarry anymore. The dog now occupies more of a retrieval status and it is quite possible to hunt a whole lifetime and never avail you of the services of a hunting dog. But what fun would that be? In a world that has changed so quickly and moves so fast, it is important to retain part of our history and thus we keep the dog as our ever-faithful hunting companion. Even in hunting, however, dogs still require specific training.

The first step in training a hunting dog is made before the animal is ever acquired. You must decide what kind of dog, your sport requires. Many breeds have been refined for certain hunting activities and this must be taken into consideration. Just as you would not take a dachshund on a lion hunt, you shouldn�t expect your wolfhound to crawl down a badger den. Decide upon a hunting style and then pick the animal best suited to it. Are you a rabbit or squirrel-hunting fan? Then perhaps the beagle or basset hound would be to your liking. Do you prefer the challenge of hunting quail, dove or pheasant? Maybe you should consider one of the breeds of pointers. Do you like the peaceful calm of long hours spent in a duck blind on a cool morning? A retriever is probably the perfect choice for you. Take the time and do the research. There is a dog bred for nearly every type of hunting and even a few breeds that cross boundaries into different platforms.

The second difference in a hunting dogs training is the training goal itself. While it is desirable to almost completely remove aggressive behavior in a companion animal, it is advisable to leave some of this instinct intact for hunting animals. The reason behind this is simple. These animals spend long hours and sometimes days in the field and may encounter danger from wildlife or even wounded prey. Also the first time your untrained dog hands you a squirrel that is stunned and not completely dead, you will understand the reason for leaving the aggressive instinct in the animal. (Authors note: Promptly seek medical attention to have the finger the squirrel bit off reattached… Duct Tape won�t fix everything no matter what the label tells you. ) All humor aside, a mildly aggressive hunting animal is more of a benefit than a detriment as long as the animal still gives up the prey without a fight.

Another aspect of training a hunting animal is to teach them to behave independently. Many types of hunting require that the hunting dogs will usually lead ahead of the hunter by great distances. They must be able to act upon their own without fear of them running away or getting into trouble. Another point that might seem a trifle silly; A hunting dog must not be gun shy. Owning a $1500 bird dog that just ran yelping over the hill, never to be seen again, when you fired a shot is not good training or a good investment.

So remember when picking your hunting companion… Choose the breed appropriately, train them correctly, and know your dog. With these basics, hunting with dogs can be a great hobby.

November 30th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

What You Can Learn from Training Your Dog

We think of dog training in pretty simple terms most of the time. The trainer teaches, the dog learns and that�s it. We see dog training as a one-way street upon which a trainer imparts guidance to a dog. That, however, is a great oversimplification. Though it does describe the way a dog�s life can be improved through good training, it doesn�t remind us of another wonderful benefit of training.

You see, in reality dog training is an interaction. And in any interaction, all parties involved take something away from the experience. In the case of dog training, the dog does learn appropriate behaviors. He, however, is not the only learner in the process. The dog trainer also gains from the interaction.

The advantages to the canine half of the training duo are clear. There are advantages for the human, too, which are pretty obvious. In the end, he has a fine companion with whom he can develop a great relationship. The owner also benefits from having a �good� dog, one who doesn�t destroy his property or try his patience at every turn. These are very real benefits and should not be disregarded or trivialized. However, when one closely examines dog training, they find that the teacher gains even more from his interaction with the canine pupil.

Owners gain insight into their own personality during the training process. They find their weaknesses amplified by their pet and their personality strengths underlined. They may learn that patience is not their natural strength and that training forced them to be more considerate and calm. Alternatively, they may learn their threshold for frustration was actually higher than they had imagined. These lessons, learned through interaction with a dog, are transferable into other segments of one�s life.

For example, the trainer who has successfully worked with a problem dog may find it easier to deal with a difficult client or employee�they have learned that they can be patient and see a situation through without �losing it.�

Owners also gain insight into what they really want from their life. There was a reason they sought a dog as a companion and a reason why they spent the time and energy necessary to train that dog. Their interactions throughout training can inform their perspective on self and personal motivation. They may find a new realization of how much they appreciate life and can learn a great deal about friendship building, as well.

There is of course, the tremendous sense of satisfaction that comes from training a dog to consider, too. Training requires a commitment over time and a willingness to give of oneself a great deal. A trainer may reflect on that experience and discover a selfless aspect to their personality of which they had previously been unaware. Tapping into that component of the personality might spur them to undertake other positive activities.

When one realizes they have successfully completed a long-term task, they may better understand their innate ability to set goals and to achieve them by acting consistently with those goals in mind. Dog training can become a great example of what one can accomplish with clear goals in mind.

Training dogs is not just about teaching �sit, heel, and rollover.� It is about working with and interacting with another living being over an extended period of time. It is about giving instruction, of course, but it is also about receiving wisdom.

Thinking of dog training as merely the enforcement of rules and expectations simply does not do justice to the wonderful process. There is much more to it, and there is a great deal a trainer can learn from both his dog and the training process itself.

Dog training is more than an exercise in learning and understanding for a dog. It is an exercise in learning and understanding for the master, too. There is a lot we can learn from our experiences with dog training if we expand our perspective on the matter to include all of the wisdom and understanding acquired throughout the training process. A broad perspective on dog training shows it to be a remarkably valuable enterprise for both the pet and the owner.

December 2nd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Why does Fido do that?

This question seems to resound around the earth among new pet owners everywhere. Thousands of people at this very moment are looking at some odd behavior and asking themselves just why is the dog doing this? Let�s look at a few of the common behaviors and see if we can understand the reasons behind them.

The first is the age old problem of garbage can raiding. This behavior is quite annoying as it creates a huge and unsightly mess to clean up. It involves an animal willfully tipping a trash receptacle and then going thru the contents, leaving a lot of destruction and debris in their wake. Why does Fido do this? Well, the simple answer is hunger. Your dog most likely smelled something delicious in the trash can, like perhaps a carryout box or even a piece of meat you threw out of the refrigerator. This problem can usually be resolved by getting rid of odiferous objects such as table scraps in a separate sealed bag or by using a more stable trashcan. If the outdoor receptacle seems to be the common target, have an enclosure built around it to keep the animal out.

Another common mystery to dog owners is the eating of grass. Dogs are naturally carnivorous, rather than herbivorous, it is hard to understand how an animal would bypass a plate of steak to go mow the yard with its teeth. The answer lies in the animal�s own stomach. Your pet may have a bellyache from the plate of steak you gave him this afternoon. Dogs eat vegetation when they feel poorly, especially with illnesses related to digestion. This is probably not a danger to your pet unless your yard has been chemically treated. However, it is advisable to keep an eye on your pets eating habits and behaviors. If the animal displays signs of poor health a veterinary visit would be in order.

Another habit human companions of our canine friends find disgusting is litter box raiding. The scientific name for this situation is Coprophagy but even without the fancy word, we all know exactly what we mean here, if you let the dog in a house with a litter box, you can bet the dog will find it within no time. But why does your dog insist on eating what the cat left behind? There are many theories as to why our dogs do this. Some medical conditions can cause the symptom to occur. Some of these medical conditions include pancreatic of intestinal dysfunction, starvation or even severe malnutrition due to advanced infections of parasite such as worms. Others believe that the eating of feces may be a way for dogs to replenish their B vitamin supply or a hold over from evolution. Still others claim it is a psychological condition caused by nervousness or a guilt complex instilled by an owner who was too harsh in housebreaking. No matter what the reason for it, the easiest way to prevent it is to keep the animals yard and walking area free of feces of any type including their own. Aside from this, walk your dog on a leash so as to have control should they find something you missed. Also put the cats litter box up out of the dogs reach but still accessible to the cat or get a litter box with a hood system. A visit to the veterinarian would also be in order as this condition may be symptomatic of various ailments and could also be a contributing factor in the animal developing a parasite infestation.

Hopefully these short insights into your dogs mind have given you a bit more information on what makes your dog tick. By understanding how your dog thinks, it is much easier to train them to perform or quit performing various actions as the case may be. For almost every behavior imaginable, someone else has experienced it and wrote about it on the Internet. If your dog is doing something you just can�t comprehend or that makes you think your pet has lost its mind, do a bit of research and maybe you will find the dog�s motivation and how to cure that problem that�s driving you mad or at least satisfy your curiosity so you don�t have to ask, Why does Fido do that?

December 3rd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

THE BASICS OF TRAINING YOUR DOG

As a new dog owner and trainer, you may find yourself a bit overwhelmed at first. Do not be discouraged by this. It is quite common and shows a healthy concern for your pets well being. This being said there are a few very simple rules to remember when training your pet.

If you can remember to remain consistent, keep a level head and reward your pet appropriately then you have won a large part of the battle. What do these three basics entail? We shall discuss that in the following few paragraphs.

Dogs are creatures of habit. Every part of their daily life revolves around an internal schedule and routine. They anticipate the return of their owners at a certain time of day and know that meal times occur regularly. Once trained, they will even exhibit certain behaviors to mark these times of day, such as bringing their empty food dish to their master or waiting near the door for their owners return. To us humans, this may seem a dull existence but our canine companions thrive on consistent routines. This fact is very useful to a new trainer as it can make your job much easier if you use this knowledge. Why? Because canine obedience training revolves around repetition of certain actions. The goal behind obedience training is the idea that a dog will respond with a certain reaction every time a certain command is given. This means that every time you tell your dog to sit, this will be exactly what will happen. To make use of the animal�s instinctive behavior in this regard, one must remember to be consistent with training. Go thru the routines exactly the same way every time with no variation until they are well in hand. If you tell your dog to sit, make certain your pet does so before moving on to the next point, even pushing their hindquarters down if necessary to accomplish this end. This rigid consistency will go a long way towards achieving a well-trained pet.

Let�s now move along to the next point of keeping a level head, which is also one of the more difficult points. At the end of a long day of work, you are tired, the dog just doesn�t seem to be responding and tempers can flare quite easily. You may decide this dog is just one of the few who can�t be trained or that you just don�t have the skills. You might be feeling completely discouraged by a seeming lack of interest on the dogs part to learn even the simplest of behaviors. You will most likely encounter this scenario more than once in your venture at dog training. Just take this moment as a queue that the lesson is done for the time being and retire to some less strenuous amusement such as a hot cup of tea. Dogs are like children and will find the ways to irritate you for amusement it seems. Just like children, they take time and patience in teaching anything worth training them for. Rome wasn�t built in a day and your dog won�t become a well trained champion over night either.

Now let�s move on to the third major point in being a successful trainer. The reward for doing a behavior or trick correctly. This is a very important part of the training process as it builds your relationship with your pet and shows them your appreciation for their good behaviors. Again consistent treatment is important in training and a reward should be given every time a performance of a given command is executed properly. This is not saying to give your dog a food treat every time. While an occasional tidbit of food is a great reward doing so consistently is not. This would result in an unhealthy pet and be counterproductive to your training efforts. Rather than doing this, offer other forms of reward such as rich verbal praise, play with a favorite toy or petting your dog to show affection. These rewards will enhance your relationship with your pet and make future training sessions even easier as your pet will anticipate these rewards and want to please you.

If these simple steps are kept in mind, your pets training should be an easy task with many rich rewards. Enjoy your pet and make your bond stronger while training with these three principles.

December 4th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

B.A.R.F. Diet: Sounds yummy but what is it?

It actually sounds kind of gross, but BARF is an acronym for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food. Many health conscious veterinarians are huge advocates for this diet which can completely replace commercially prepared dog food. One of the first proponents of the BARF diet was Dr. Ian Billinghurst who still recommends it today. He believes that it is the ultimate way to get our pets in to optimum health. Many people believe that the BARF diet simulates what your dog would eat in his natural environment.

Many people feel that there are a lot of health advantages to feeding a raw food diet. Many owners who have dogs with problems such as allergies, skin problems, weight problems, and anal gland problems have found that the bones and raw food diet has helped to significantly remedy these issues.

Some of the advantages to feeding a biologically appropriate raw food diet include no consumption of preservatives found in most commercially prepared kibble diets, it usually tastes better to your dog than regular dog food, and in general, muscle mass and body condition improve on a raw food diet. One also often finds that dogs produce fewer stools, eat more slowly, and have fewer health problems. Many advocates of the raw food diet also claim that it is less expensive than commercially manufactured dog food. One of the biggest disadvantages to this diet is that it takes longer to prepare.

If you decide that you would like to try the BARF diet with your dog, you must first do the research. There are many websites and books available to guide you through the process. Talk to your veterinarian, though many veterinarians are unfamiliar with the BARF diet. Find people in your area that feed the raw food diet to their animals. Make sure it is right for you and your dog before you try it.

The next step is to transition your dog from his commercial dog food to his new bones and raw food diet. You may want to do this gradually as oftentimes dogs develop digestive problems when switching to new diets. Some advocates of the BARF diet recommend switching your dog to the new diet cold turkey, however.

When feeding a raw food diet, you will generally want to feed your dog twice per day. The first meal of the day will usually consist of raw meat and bones like turkey or chicken legs, thighs, wings, or necks, pork riblets, lamb chops, and the like. The second meal will consist of a mush made with raw meat, fresh vegetables, and Offal (the organs parts of the meat you are feeding). Usually you will want to supplement this with cottage cheese, eggs with the shells, yogurt, fruit, fish, and recreational bones (which are the harder to chew kinds of bones). This can vary, so do your homework. You will want to avoid grains. Advocates of the biologically appropriate raw food diet agree that dogs do not have the proper digestive systems to deal with whole grains and that most food allergies are grain related.

Most advocates of the raw food diet do not recommend supplements. If you aren�t sure what to do, speak with your veterinarian.

Many people are hesitant to feed their dog a raw diet because they are concerned about their dogs choking on bones. While these incidents occur, proponents of raw food diets say they are rare, and that generally, dogs choke on cooked bones, not raw ones.

There are commercially prepared raw food diets on the market. While this is always an option for you if you choose to feed raw food, many advocates of the BARF diet recommend against it. They argue that these foods have different regulations that human grade foods, oftentimes contain unnecessary supplements, are ground foods (and the whole basis of the BARF diet is raw, meaty bones), and are much more expensive than visiting your local butcher.

If you decide that the bones and raw food diet is something that you�d like to try, first talk to your veterinarian about your decision. Then, do as much research into the diet as possible. Talk to others who feed the diet. You may find that by feeding the BARF diet you are improving the health of your dog.

December 5th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Snug as a Pug in a rug: Keeping your dog warm during the winter months

For many dog owners, how to keep their dog warm during the cold winter is a big concern. Luckily for them, there are many ways to do this.

If your dog is small, has short hair, or is older, you may want to consider purchasing a jacket to help keep him warm. In some climates, it is appropriate to choose a sweater for the fall months and a heavier jacket for the colder winter months. When choosing outerwear for your dog choose something simple that is easy for you to put on. You may need to acclimate your dog to wearing a coat as some dogs do not like to be dressed up. To do this, simply put the coat on for short periods each day making sure to give lots of good treats. Your dog will learn to associate wearing his coat with yummy treats making it much easier for you to dress him. Choose a coat made from durable materials that are easy to care for. Just because it�s cute doesn�t necessarily mean that it is appropriate. Also, if snow is a concern, look for water resistant materials. Make sure to know your dog�s measurements and follow the manufacturer�s directions to ensure proper fit.

Dogs that walk a lot, work outside, or are older, may also need to wear boots. Dog boots are available from many manufacturers and help keep feet protected from ice, snow, and salt. As with coats, make sure to follow the manufacturer�s directions to ensure proper fit. If you choose not to purchase boots for your dog, make sure to remove ice and snow from between his pads when he comes inside. This will help keep him warm as well as help prevent dry, cracked, irritated pads.

If your dog lives primarily outside, you will want to make sure you get him a good quality shelter of some sort. Many pet supply stores and online manufacturers make great quality dog houses in a variety of styles for every budget. You will want one that will help keep wind, rain, and snow away from your dog. You will want to make sure that the opening to the dog house does not face the wind. You will also want to make sure that you lay down straw or provide a bed or several blankets to help protect your dog from the frozen ground. Make sure to change the straw and/or bedding periodically. Blankets and beds can get wet and straw, when wet, can get moldy. Moldy straw can lead to upper respiratory and skin infections. Some people like to provide heat to their outside dog houses. It is not a good idea to do this with heating pads or space heaters with electrical cords. Your dog can chew through these cords causing a hazardous accident. If you choose to provide heat to your outdoor dog, it is best to have this done professionally. Some pet stores offer heated beds that contain a disc that can be heated in the microwave or with hot water periodically.

During the winter, it is just as important to keep your dog properly groomed as it is during the summer. Your dog�s coat provides natural insulation against the elements. It is important to keep your dog�s coat brushed and free of mats and burrs. The hair between the foot pads needs to be trimmed up to help prevent ice balls from forming. Regular grooming will help ensure proper body temperature during the winter months.

Some dogs, especially those kept outside, will require extra food during the winter months. It is important to discuss these nutritional needs with your veterinarian or pet professional. If your dog is kept outside, it is also very important to make sure that he has access to clean, fresh water at all times. Snow and ice are not appropriate for hydration. Be careful to make sure that his water has not frozen over.

There are many things you can do to ensure that your dog stays warm and safe during the winter months. If you have further questions about how to do this, please ask your veterinary staff or pet professionals.

December 6th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

FIVE TIPS FOR EASIER VET VISITS

Taking your pet to the veterinarians� office can be an adventure all on its own. There are so many sights, sounds, smells and other sensations that your pet can easily become quite excited or agitated to the point that control is difficult. Multiply this by the ever rotating average of 10 or more pets in a busy waiting room and mass pandemonium could be the result. Without proper training and control, a veterinarian�s waiting room might quickly become a bedlam of scales, feather and fur as the animals all compete for space and attention. So what can you do to make the trip less stressful for your pet, yourself, your vet and the staff? There are five basic points that will make any visit, less of an odyssey.

First, be certain to leash or halter train your dog if you do not plan on using a pet carrier for transport. A pet carrier is ideal for small animals as this provides them a measure of security, as they have their own personal space, and it also gives them protection from larger or aggressive animals that might be in the waiting room, but for larger animals a pet carrier may not be an option. A shorter leash or halter is best in this situation as it provides more control for the dog owner and prevents tangling with other animals or furniture. Leashes also provide a handhold for cases where aggressive behaviors amongst animals might otherwise get out of control.

Secondly, consider muzzle training for your pet. Many veterinarian hospitals now request you to muzzle your pet. This is for the safety of other patients as well as the staff. A muzzle will simply fit around a dog�s mouth area and prevent biting but to a dog that is unfamiliar with the device this can be a very frightening experience. Giving your pet the opportunity to learn about this device in a non-threatening environment can make the office visit much less traumatic.

A third tip is not to forget the rewards. Unless your veterinarian has requested your dog have no food for specific purposes, such as testing, or if they do not allow food in the waiting room, feel free to bring along a treat for your pet. This will help them to feel more at ease with the new surroundings and help to keep their focus on you rather than on getting a closer look at the iguana on a leash in the corner. It also gives you the chance to continue the training lessons while waiting for your pet to be called back to the exam rooms. Plus, your dog will think you are really cool and, if you are lucky, so will that cute receptionist you�ve had your eye on.

Fourth, keep track of your pet�s medical records. Is your pet allergic to anything? Is she up to date on her vaccination shots? How old is he? Has your pet had any surgeries, major illnesses or parasites? These things are all important to know and could be potentially life threatening if you didn�t keep them current. Regular visit to the vet and being current on shots is always a good idea. Why risk losing your precious friend to some disease that is virtually non-existent over a measly few dollars? Plus, visiting the vet regularly will help your pet to become more relaxed with the office settings and they will respond better.

For our fifth tip, let�s party. Socializing your pet to other people and animals prior to vet visits is a great idea provided they are current on their vaccinations. This allows them to learn acceptable behaviors around other animals and what the boundaries of interaction are. Hosting a puppy party is a great way to do this. Invite several other dog owners over to visit and serve a modest picnic or potluck type meal. Encourage the dogs to play and interact together and with the other owners. This will help them to learn what you will and will not accept and helps you to determine potential problem areas.

Following these simple tips can make vet visits less traumatic on all involved and much easier to cope with. You will thank yourself later. Your pet will thank you and so will the staff at the vet�s office.

December 8th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Puppy Mills, Pet Stores, Shelters and Breeders:

What Are They and What Is the Difference?

There are many ways to acquire a new dog and some methods are definitely better than others. Puppy mills, pet stores, shelters and dog breeders are the most common sources of new pets for most people. Carefully examine the nature of each of these venues before buying a dog.

Puppy Mills

The term �puppy mill� refers to any breeding facility that breeds dog for profit only. Very little attention is paid to the animals and breed standards are not held to. In the worst of the puppy mills, dogs are stacked up in cages, are underfed and given very little medical care. The dogs are continually bred, heat cycle after heat cycle, giving the female dog little or no time to recover before she is impregnated once again. The conditions under which these dogs are kept and bred often produce dogs with minor to major behavioral and medical problems. Not all puppy mills are large facilities. Even the �backyard breeder� who breeds dogs only for profit and not for the benefit of the breed is considered by many to be a puppy mill. The prices you�ll pay to a puppy mill may be less than what you would have paid for a dog from a reputable breeder, but you may end up paying more in the long run anyway. Dogs from puppy mills are usually plagued with medical problems (resulting from a lack of proper medical care and malnutrition) that require an excessive amount of medical exams, shots and medication.

Pet Stores

No trip to the mall would be complete without a walk through the pet store, right? All of those cute little puppies, so excited to see you! It�s a miracle that anyone ever makes it out of a pet store without taking one of those cuties home with them. The animals from a pet store might appear to be well cared for and the store�s staff may vouch for the health and quality of their inventory, but the truth is usually something entirely different. The only source of dogs for today�s pet store is the puppy mill. No reputable breeder would allow his or her dog to be displayed and sold in such a manner, so what other kind of breeder is left?

Shelters

If you don�t really care about the breed of a dog and are simply looking for a companion animal, your local animal shelter is a great place to begin your search. Dogs of all ages and sizes are available. Many shelters allow you to play with a dog and spend some time with it before you make the final decision as to whether or not you want to adopt it � they want to make sure the fit is just right! For an adoption fee, you�ll get a new dog that has been fixed, vaccinated and injected with a microchip.

Breeders

Reputable breeders are the best option if you�re looking for a purebred puppy. A reputable breeder is one who works for the benefit of the breed, not for profit and who cares where his or her puppies end up. Expect to be questioned about your plans for the dog and don�t be surprised if, after a conversation or two, the breeder decides that your home would not be the best one for their dog. If you are approved by the breeder, you will probably have to sign some sort of contract in which you agree to: immediately spay or neuter a dog bought for companion purposes only; notify the breeder of any medical conditions that the dog develops; notify the breeder if you have to get rid of the dog so that he or she can find it a new home; and, breed your dog (if that�s why you�re buying it) in accordance with breed standards. The actual contract might include other stipulations as well. This may seem a bit stringent, but the breeder is only trying to ensure the health and well-being of the animal. A pet you buy from a responsible, reputable breeder can be very expensive, but you�ll know that your new addition to the family is as healthy as he can be and free of genetic defects. Where do you find a reputable breeder? Once you decide on the breed that�s right for you, check with the relevant local and national breed clubs. They will be able to recommend a breeder in your area.

December 9th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Choosing a Trainer: Two Key Considerations

Although many dog owners successfully train their pets without outside assistance, some benefit greatly by using a professional dog trainer. A quality dog trainer can help instruct the dog while also providing the owner with invaluable guidance and assistance. Very problematic dogs�those who seem inordinately aggressive or unruly, for instance�often pose training problems that outstrip the ability of even a relatively well-informed dog owner and a finding a great dog trainer becomes essential.

Dog trainers do not require specific licensing. Any person with a desire to do so can simply proclaim himself or herself a dog trainer, hang up a shingle, and begin soliciting customers. The bar for entry into the dog training profession is set so low that it is no surprise that there are many inadequate trainers trying to do business.

When choosing a dog trainer, how is a dog owner to decide who they should trust with their pet�s care and education? Choosing a dog trainer can be a very difficult proposition but separating the untalented and amateurish from the truly gifted is essential to your dog�s well being. Making a mistake in hiring a dog trainer will not only fail to help your dog, it could worsen his behavior and make it harder to correct later.

There is no magic formula for choosing the right trainer. There are any number of factors you may want to consider to find someone with whom you can successfully work and upon whom you can truly rely. However, there are at least two considerations that should guide most any selection of a dog trainer: Experience and reputation.

Experience

One should try to search out a trainer with significant experience. Experienced trainers are more likely to be able to successfully deal with the unique circumstances of your pet based on their track record with other animals.

Additionally, experience inherently communicates at least a reasonable likelihood of talent. One is not likely to have stayed in business as a dog trainer for any significant period of time if they lacked talent and failed to produce desired results. Experience, in essence, is also a proof of at least some ability.

What about new trainers? After all, even the most veteran and experienced trainer began as a rookie. Does this mean one should pass over every trainer who lacks a long track record?

You may be able to find a truly great trainer among the ranks of the less experienced. There is, however, the increased risk that the trainer will be unable to satisfactorily train your dog. If you are considering a novice trainer, grill them about their past experiences prior to entering the profession. Find out what kind of dogs they have dealt with, if they have a more experienced mentor, and how they feel they have qualified themselves to work with your dog. Picking a rookie trainer could work out perfectly, but it does increase the chances of dealing with someone who is woefully unprepared to handle the job responsibilities of training.

Reputation

Experience is an indicator of talent, but it is not a foolproof way of assessing a trainer�s talents. It is possible for a crafty marketer to stay in business a long time, after all, regardless of the quality of their work. As such, it is appropriate to inquire about the reputation of the dog trainers you are considering. Solicit opinions and references from a variety of sources in order to find the right trainer for you.

Great sources for information regarding wonderful trainers and those you should avoid might include veterinarians, breeders, pet storeowners and close acquaintances who have used a dog trainer. By asking around, you can find out which trainers are most highly regarded.

Ask the trainer himself or herself, too. See if they will provide some references you may contact, preferably past clients. Any trainer who is unwilling to do this should be eyed with some degree of suspicion. Most qualified and talented traders will be happy to give you references to contact. Be sure to follow through. Talk to the references and find out all you can about the trainer and the quality of training the former customers and their dogs experienced.

There are a variety of factors that one may want to consider when seeking out a trainer for their dog. The importance of a trainer to a dog�s life is significant and great care should be taken during the selection process. Two things that must be kept in mind when seeking a trainer are the trainer�s experience and reputation.

December 12th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Vaccinations: When, Why and What should your pet be getting?

Vaccinations are a very important part of dog ownership. Your dog should be properly vaccinated against certain diseases at certain times to help protect him and other animals he may come in to contact with. The following is an explanation of vaccinations and why they should be given.

When you get a puppy, most likely your veterinarian will recommend a series of three sets of vaccinations. These will generally be given at four week intervals starting at eight weeks of age. The first vaccine will most likely be referred to as �distemper.� This is usually a combination shot that will protect your dog against distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, leptospirosis, and coronavirus.

1) Distemper -a highly contagious disease caused by a virus that is similar to measles in humans. It can affect dogs of all ages but is most often seen in unvaccinated puppies. It attacks the gastrointestinal, respiratory, and nervous systems. Symptoms include cough, nasal and eye discharge, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea. In advanced stages, dogs may show neurological problems such as lack of coordination, weakness, and seizures. Treatment includes fluids and antibiotics but prognosis is guarded and in about half of the cases, Distemper is fatal.

2) Hepatitis -which affects the liver, pancreas, kidneys, and the lining of blood vessels. It causes fever, abdominal pain, diarrhea, and lethargy. Treatment includes administration of fluids and antibiotics but in serious cases a blood transfusion may be necessary. The severity of the disease varies but young puppies often die from Hepatitis.

3) Parainfluenza - caused by a virus and is quite mild in comparison with other infectious diseases. Symptoms include sneezing, discharge from the eyes and nose, and coughing. Treatment varies but in many cases, no treatment is required.

4) Leptospirosis which is transmitted by contact with water contaminated with infected urine. It affects the urinary tract, kidneys, and liver. Symptoms include vomiting, lethargy, and abdominal pain. In further stages of the disease, dogs may become very thirsty and have a low temperature. Treatment includes antibiotics and fluid therapy. Please note however that some dogs are allergic to the leptospirosis vaccine. Please check with your veterinarian if you have questions or concerns. Oftentimes the leptospirosis component is not a part of your puppy shots and will be administered annually starting the next year your dog is due for vaccination.

5) Coronavirus which causes inflammation of the intestines and diarrhea. This disease most often affects puppies. Symptoms include decreased appetite, orange or yellow diarrhea, lethargy, and fever. Treatment includes fluid administration and antibiotics. Prognosis is usually good. The distemper combination vaccine is given annually after the first three series.

At your second visit (or at age 12 weeks), if you plan to take your dog to puppy class or he will be around other dogs, it is a good idea to get him vaccinated for Bordetella Bronchiseptica. Bordetella Bronchiseptica is most often referred to as Kennel Cough. This disease is incredibly infectious and is usually transmitted in areas where many dogs are together such as boarding facilities, doggy day care, and dog parks. If your dog becomes infected, you will notice a dry cough. Infected dogs are usually treated with antibiotics. Keep in mind that even though most places that take in multiple dogs require immunization to Bordetella, no vaccine is 100% effective so your dog may still become ill with this disease. This vaccine comes in both intranasal and injectible form. The intranasal form is dribbled into your dog�s nostrils. Your dog may need a booster of the Bordetella vaccine at his 16 week visit and annually after that.

At age 16 weeks, your dog can be vaccinated for Rabies. Rabies is usually transmitted to dogs through saliva - most often in the form of a bite from an infected animal. Rabies affects all warm blooded animals but is most often found in bats, skunks, and raccoons. Rabies is always fatal. In many states, rabies vaccination is required by law. Check with your veterinarian on how often this immunization is recommended as protocols may vary. If your dog becomes infected with Rabies, you may notice subtle behavioral changes at first. This may be accompanied by fever, vomiting, and diarrhea. The best defense against Rabies is to make certain your dog is properly immunized.

By properly vaccinating your dog, you are helping to ensure both his safety and the safety of other pets and humans.

December 14th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Is Electrical Collars Effective in Training?

Is the use of an electrical collar really an effective training aid? The short answer to this question is yes. Without a doubt, these tools are effective as training aids. They provide a quick attention getter for the animal being trained and they most assuredly provide a negative reinforcement that can teach the animal what behaviors are unwanted. However, like all things, there is much more to consider than just the initial, obvious benefits. In this article, we will discuss the various benefits and problems encountered by using this device.

Let�s first discuss, for a moment, how these devices work. The electrical, or shock collar, as they are commonly referred to, is basically a receiver that, when triggered, delivers an electrical stimulation to the neck area of a dog via two probes that are in contact with the skin. The receiver is controlled by way of a remote transmitter that has an effective range of up to one mile for some models. In early training, the charge is fairly low but consistent until the animal learns that exhibiting correct behaviors can turn off the stimulation. Once the animal has learned how the collar works, these devices are not used continuously but rather the opposite. They are used only to dissuade incorrect behaviors by delivering a clear and consistent message with its electrical payload. Now that we understand how these devices work, lets take a few moments to discuss why one might use them and whether they are effective or not.

The obvious reason for using an electrical collar is the ability to control the dog from long distances without having to yell or use noise-producing methods, particularly effective with animals that are used around cattle or in an environment where excess noise is not acceptable, such as hunting land. This long distance control also has the advantage of helping you to maintain a non-threatening position with your dog by the collar enforcing the rules rather than you having to be physical or intimidating while correcting him.

On the other hand, relying on the long distance attention getter can also be a disadvantage. How? Because at a good distance, you run the risk of the dog being able to run out of range of the transmitter to escape the electrical stimulus and losing your animal, not to mention a very expensive piece of training equipment.

Another disadvantage to the electrical collar is the prohibitive costs. With these items often falling in the $100 or higher range, they are not for everyone. This is a point to be considered when looking at the maintenance costs and the costs of any loss thru a dog that knows how to slip the collar or breaks it loose.

Another advantage to this training system is the acceleration rate of the training for specific behaviors. Many owners claim to cut their training time in half by the use of an electrical collar for training such commands as �come�, �get out� or �down.� This little fact alone is enough to make many new trainers carefully consider using this tool.

However, there is another disadvantage. After all, the basic principle behind this device is that it will inflict at least a measure of pain upon your pet. If you are the type of person to stay up late at night with pangs of conscience for not sharing your bologna sandwich with your hunting dog, then the electrical collar may not be the best choice for you. This device is created with the purpose of negative reinforcement in mind and it does its job very well. It is a matter that each individual trainer must decide as to whether it is within their conscience to inflict pain upon their animal to achieve results and, if so, how much is enough before it becomes cruelty.

In the end, the answer to the original question is yes, these are effective tools, but like any tool, they have their uses and misuses. This tool can be a great asset if used properly or it can ruin a good dog if used incorrectly. When all is said and done, it is the responsibility of each owner and trainer to decide whether or not it is a tool that fits into his or her training methods and style using their research and sound judgment.

December 17th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

5 steps to socializing your pet to other animals

Socializing your pet to accept new animals into the household is not always an easy task. We all read the biblical account of Noah and his Ark and wondered just how he got the animals to survive in the ark together for five minutes let alone 40 days and nights of rain. The dog usually has its own ideas of its territory and home and is generally not a generous creature when it come to sharing but would much rather chase the intruders away. We have to reprogram the dogs thinking to make it understand that chasing the cat or iguana or whatever other pet you may have, is not acceptable. So how about some instruction on just how it�s done?

For the First tip, Insure the Safety of Both Animals and Yourself. To start, make certain that the new animal will be safe. Place the new pet in a pet carrier or some other sturdy structure that prohibits the dog from actually physically contacting the animal but still allows for both animals to see, smell and hear each other. This provides a way for both animals to acclimate to each other in a safe, though possibly a bit stressful, situation. In later steps, gloves might be advisable to avoid scratches from a nervous pet.

Secondly, Rewards Work Wonders. After the animals have both calmed a bit give them each a small reward, such as a morsel of some favorite food. Be sure to give the dog lots of verbal praise and affection when it is not barking or trying to get to the new animal as this will show the dog that you are accepting of the new pet�s presence and you expect him to be also. Repeat this process several times over the course of a week or so, until both animals seem fairly accustomed to the presence of the other and their aggressions seem to have subsided. At this point, you are ready to move on to the next step and tip number three.

The third tip to socializing your animal is Get Help. This step will require an assistant to help with one of the animals. Have the assistant leash the dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash. After instructing the assistant to maintain control of the dog, open the pet carrier and bring the new pet out carefully. Your dog will likely move towards the animal so be sure the assistant has the dog held tightly and be careful not to let the new pet panic and escape your grasp. Gradually bring them closer together and let them calmly adapt to each others presence. Repeat this step several times over the next few days and by the end of the week, these two animals should be like old chums.

Another tip to remember in socializing your pets is that, while the animals most likely won�t make an instant attachment to each other, there are those special picture perfect moments that you will want to cherish a lifetime. So keep the camera handy and loaded with film. The candid shots of training at its best provide memories that will last forever. Few things are more fun than looking at a picture of your dog with an iguana riding around the room perched on his back and telling a little white lie that you taught the two of them to do that.

Our Fifth and final point is remember that just like humans, not everyone is going to get along. There will be days where the dog and the cat are going to feud or the iguana will get cantankerous and slap the dog with his tail for the fun of it. Some animals were just never meant to live in harmony but with a lot of patience and a little direction you can make your household fairly peaceable most of the time. When things go sour, just take it in stride and put the animals in their separate areas for a bit and, given a cooling period, they will be friends again in no time.

With these simple tips you can be certain that life around your home will be much more harmonious and you might just have a bit more respect for Noah and his Ark.

December 21st, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Top Ten Dog Breeds for The Elderly

Dogs have been making great companions for centuries now. They are loved by all ages. Everyone has their own preference as to what dog best suits their lifestyle. When choosing a dog, this is an important aspect to consider, especially for the elderly. Having a four legged friend can be comforting and can bring much joy to an elderly person. Studies have proven that having a dog around, improves the overall wellbeing of seniors. They can have someone to share their love with. Even nursing homes have grabbed onto the idea of having animals visiting or even living in the same venue.

What are the best picks for the elderly though? The two most important areas to consider are the size and temperament of the canine. Smaller dogs tend to be less maintenance and easier to handle than larger ones. Smaller dogs are also beneficial for the elderly because they make great lap dogs. Below are some top choices of breeds for seniors.

Schnauzer - These dogs enjoy being around people. They crave the companionship given by humans. There are two sizes: the miniature and standard size. Either one will do. Schnauzers can be protective of its family and they have a desire to please. Maintenance of the dog consists of exercising daily. A brief walk would be sufficient. Also consistent grooming is required.

Pug - These dogs are good picks because of their size. They are small dogs, and yet they have big hearts. They are generally very playful dogs. Outgoing by nature, they thrive off of attention and affection from its owners. Even though they crave a lot of attention, they don�t just take; they give a lot out too. These dogs are best fitted for someone who has plenty of time on their hands. They are not always high energized. They do have down time in which they like to snuggle up on a warm lap.

Cocker Spaniel - The cocker is a rather popular pick among dog lovers. They are not high strung or outgoing by nature. Because of their patience and docile personality, they make great picks for seniors. They don�t need a lot of exercise either. Just a brief walk will do. They are loyal to their owners. Because of their curly hair, regular grooming is a good idea.

Chihuahua - These dogs may be tiny, but they have a loud bark. They tend to take to one owner rather than several family members. For seniors living alone, they are great for warning of people approaching. Despite their size, they are very protective of their owners. They generally weigh less than 5 lbs. and are 6-9 inches in height.

Shih tzu - These dogs live for human companionship. They are friendly and gentle dogs. This breed is very alert to what is going on around him.

Yorkshire Terrier - This dog makes another great lap dog. He enjoys quietness by lounging around. Don�t be fooled by his lounging, he does have quite a bit of vigor.

Scottish Terrier - By the name, it is obvious that Scotties derived from Scotland. They are loyal to their family. They are a working dog that weighs between 15-20 lbs. Their statute reflects their intelligence. They can be protective as well.

Toy Poodle - This dog loves to be doted over and enjoys the company of people over other dogs. Poodles love attention and don�t mind being treated like a king. If a senior is looking for a companion to dot over, this is the pick for them.

Pomeranian - This dog originated in Pomerania, Germany. It has been compared to a little fuzzy bear. Pomeranians tend to be perky and can bring a smile to any face. They make great companions.

Boston Terrier - Boston Terriers are considered to be American breed dogs. They are small in size and because of their protective nature, seniors will feel secure having one of these around. Despite their protective instinct, they are also friendly and mellow.

These are just a few breeds that an elderly person might want hanging around. Smaller dogs with mild temperaments toward their owners tend to be preferred picks. Keep in mind, there is always an exception to any breed. It�s best to talk to others who are familiar with a particular breed. It�s best to know the restrictions of the senior before choosing the right dog.

December 23rd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Teaching an old dog new tricks: Overcoming arthritis in dogs

Arthritis is a health problem that not only humans deal with, but so do their animals. In fact, one-fifth of dogs in the US, over the age of seven, suffer with painful DJD (degenerative joint disease) as veterinarians like to say. It is also one of the top recurring pains in dogs that they treat. Arthritis in dogs can affect their back, elbows, shoulders, hip and neck.

If you�re not sure if your dog has arthritis, here are a few obvious signs:

Does he tend to favor once side over another (His joints could be too painful on one side, so he will tend to put more pressure on the other to avoid pain. He may even show discomfort while standing or even sitting on a particular side)

Unusual weight gain (Because of the painful joints, he may tend to be more lethargic or even sleep more not getting the exercise a healthy dog would generally get)

Not as active (If you�ve noticed he isn�t as playful or unusually hesitant in his movements. This is due to stiff joints)

If you�ve noticed your dog with any one of the above symptoms for more than a week, don�t hesitate to take him to a veterinarian. This way he can be properly diagnosed and treated.

There are home remedies that you might even want to try to ease his pain.

Diet

Your dog�s diet is one area that you might want to look into. Dry dog food is made up mostly of grains which cause inflammation of the joints. A better choice would be to try preparing his meals with raw or cooked meat as well as cooked vegetables. They are not only healthier for him but should help alleviate some of the swelling in his joints. (Stay away from anything spicy such as peppers and even onions). Omega 3 fatty acids can be used as a supplement in order to decrease the amount of inflammation in the joints. Try giving him fish capsules. Flax seed is also a great anti-inflammatory.

Exercise

Even thought your dog may be in pain, it�s still important that he gets a short amount of exercise. If he�s not skittish to water, try having him swim. For smaller dogs, a kiddy pool would work great. This way, there is no pressure on the joints, yet he is still being mobile. Also take him for short 15 minute walks. Don�t expect too much from him such as running after a ball or jumping.

Warm and Comfortable rest area

Provide a soft, comfortable area for your dog to rest. In the winter time, when the cool air can stiffen joints, try placing an old sleeping bag or pillow on the floor to help keep his joints warm. If your dog is an outside dog, you may want to bring him into the garage at night, to avoid the temperature drops.

These are just a few ways that we can help make our pets lives more comfortable. Although, visiting a veterinarian should also be considered. Your veterinarian will probably take an x-ray to see the damage to the joints. With the rising amount of animals that are developing arthritis, there are medications that have been developed to alleviate and even help repair the joints.

A popular medication for dogs in alleviating pain is glucosamine. It is a sugar that is generated from shell fish that motivates joint repair and lessens joint pain. Glucosamine is a natural ingredient that is found in animals, but with age, the body has a decrease in production of this essential element. Glucosamine works by stimulating your body to produce Synovial fluid. Synovial fluid is needed for healthy joints. It lubricates the cartilage to aid in mobility.

Never take matters into your own hands by giving your dog human medications. They can be toxic to his body, especially if given in the wrong dosage form.

Animal care has come a long way in meeting the needs of our canines. Taking your dog to regular check ups at a veterinarian is one way to keep up with your dog�s health needs. If we want our animals to have happy and healthy lives, taking care of their body�s is important. They can�t do it without else.

December 28th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Pure Breed or Mix? Are There Training Differences?

The pure bred dog is something fine to look upon. It is an animal that has been refined over the centuries to reach its pure, unadulterated state today. These dogs have been bred for temper and bloodline from early times. Yet there is a dog that goes back in history even further… The Mixed Breed or Mutt as some people would call them. This dog is a very ancient mix of pedigrees that, while not always the best of mixes, is most assuredly unique. The temperament of these animals is usually quite good and they tend not to have the congenital defects of their pure bred counterparts. It is possible to produce similar animals thru breeding efforts but as a general rule, mixed breeds are generally a unique animal that won�t be replicated. But what of their training capacity? Is there any reason to train these animals in any different manner than their pure bred brethren?

By and large, the answer is no. These animals are fully capable of learning any behavior that the pure breed is capable of and usually more. Due to better temperaments and high intelligence, these mixed breed animals frequently score quite highly in obedience pre-tests and are very trainable. While pure breed animals have been refined over the centuries, this has occasionally led to inbreeding of the animals and the specific breed has suffered in the way of congenital defects and maladjusted temperaments. The mongrel has not been so afflicted and while it may not always have the handsome lines of a Great Dane or the gorgeous coat of the Chow Chow, it can certainly have the better characteristics inherited from either of these lines and more. A mixed breed dog can have the house pet qualities of a Poodle alongside the protective qualities of a Doberman and the maternal eye of a Saint Bernard. While possessing all of these qualities, the mixed breed may leave behind the overly aggressive and high strung tendencies of the pure bred ancestry. This figured into the equation along with the price factor of the animals and it is quite easy to see why so many households happily have a mixed breed pet. These animals have the ability to display intelligence, show care, obey commands and circumvent obstacles. They have been doing so for thousands of years and show no signs of stopping.

The only real difference between training of a mixed breed animal and a pure breed dog is the ability to cross platforms with less transition trouble. If your dog is a mix between, say, an Irish Setter and a Red Bone Coon Hound, then you have a dog that quite possibly could be trained in the hunting of both birds and game mammals without much confusion. Perhaps the mix is between a Husky and a German Shepherd? This would give you a large dog with both good defense skills and the muscle for real workouts like long days of hiking. Thus by a simple exchange, you can gain much for very little loss. The animal may no longer be pure bred and the aesthetic quality may, or may not, degenerate a bit but you gain much in the way of a responsive and easily trained dog. Looking at these facts, it is hard to understand why the world has such a population explosion of homeless mixed breed pets. After all, the animal seems to be the better choice from the trainer�s point of view.

That being said there are instances where a mixed breed of dog is not acceptable. If you are training animals for the purpose of professional dog showing competitions, then by all means choose a pure breed animal and train them for the specific purposes for which the breed was created. Also for certain usages such as military animals, pure breeds seem to be the animal of choice for the purpose of uniform appearance, although a number of military animals do not meet this qualification. Aside form these or a similar circumstance, the author sees no reason to limit your search for a pet to strictly pure breed animals. Rather, do something good for yourself and for the homeless pet population and adopt a mixed breed animal.

January 10th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

15 Welcome Home items you will need for your new Greyhound

If you are soon to get a Greyhound dog or have just recently brought one home, chances are they they are full grown adult dogs. In fact, under most every circumstance, Greyhounds are only sold after they have finished their racing career. The only way to get one as a puppy would be if they were injured as pups or were some reason not equipped to race, like the runt of the pack for example.

But regardless of just how old you got your Greyhound or under what circumstance, I would like to welcome you to the club! There is nothing more enjoyable than owning this magnificent breed of dog that is absolutely loving to the family.

To help you welcome your new dog, below is a list of virtually everything you will need for your new noble pet:

1. Stainless steel water bowls and stainless steal food bowls: I recommend this because plastic can cause allergic reactions at times.
2. Toy options: stuffed animals, stuffed socks, latex squeakies, fleece-type toys, empty milk jugs, etc.
3. Buckle collar: This is for wearing around the house.
4. Cage: This is optional and if you choose one then make sure it is large enough for an adult to stand up in. You may want to choose a plastic cage that is easy to take apart and is airline approved.
5. Lightweight retractable leash: This is also optional and if you do choose to have one, be sure not to scare your Greyhound off by dropping it and causing it to retract towards her.
6. Standard leash: This can be made of either leather, nylon, or web. Be sure never to use a chain. It is hard to hold.
7. Chew-bones: Anything that will help the dog satisfy its chewing needs would suffice. Rawhide is also great.
8. Soft brush for grooming the coat.
9. Nail clippers: The guillotine type is much easier to use for both you and your Greyhound.
10. Pooper Scooper: The two-piece rake type is best for use in grass.
11. Dog Bed: A been-bag type bed is perfect for the thin coated Greyhound.
12. First aid kit
13. Dog shampoo: It is important to stick with dog shampoo brands and not human shampoo as we have different pH levels than dogs and it could cause severe irritation on their skin.
14. Sweater for the winter
15. Small child wading pool: If you really want to spoil your Greyhound then be sure to have one of these in your yard for the Greyhound to cool off after playing in the hot sun.

January 20th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

2 questions that you absolutely must ask before buying an older puppy

Are you considering bringing home a puppy that is older than twelve weeks? If so then it is important to get two important assurances from the particular breeder in which you are buying the puppy from. Due to the older age of the puppy, please make sure of the following two considerations:

1. The first thing that you want to know from the breeder is if he or she took the puppy out of his pen on a regular basis. This is important so that the pup was able to experience different environments. If not then the puppy will develop what is called kennel shyness. As soon as your little dog is introduced into your new home it will take an extremely long time for him to overcome the fears of the new surroundings.

2. The second important item that you will want to make sure of when bringing home an older puppy from a breeder is whether or not the dog spent a lot of time alone with someone on a regular basis. This could be something such as fifteen or twenty minutes per day. If not, then the dogs socialization might be retarded. This will cause you to spend a lot of extra time and effort to bring your puppy up to speed with a normal attitude towards other dogs and other people.

Hot Tip: The urge to bring home two or more puppies at the same time may be strong. How can you resist? But if two puppies are desired, do not bring them home at the same time. It is important to wait until the first puppy is at least five months old before introducing the second puppy to the household.

By the time five months or so has gone by, the first dog will have bonded with you and should be comfortable spending more time alone in his area or the yard. The reason why this is vital is because you will want to have your new puppys undivided attention at all times so that you both completely bond with each other. If you have two or more new dogs at the same time, they will tend to bond more with each other instead of learning to connect with you. Puppy-human bonding is essential to a superior relationship.

January 20th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

3 Easy tips to properly trimmed claws

Most dog owners have no idea just how long their dog’s nails are at any given point and the necessity for a trim. Joanne Stefanatos, D.V.M., a veterinarian whom owns her own private practice in Las Vegas, says If the claws are actually snagging in the carpet, you know they’re much too long.

Back in the old days when dogs were less domesticated, they wore their nails down naturally, as they ran, played, dug, and scratched their way through the outdoors. And since our pets stay mostly indoors in this day and age, it is no mystery why today’s dogs do not naturally wear out their claws without us having to trim them.

If you add common infections and poorly done doggy manicures to the mix, then you will find that even the most mild mannered dog can suffer from toe and nail problems.

To help you keep your dog’s nail and toes in tip top shape, we have listed several pieces of advice below, all of which were contributed by veterinarians.

1. Have your dog’s claws trimmed as often as possible. They should be trimmed every six to eight weeks to avoid getting too long and causing problems, says M. Lynne Kesel, D.V.M., assistant professor of elective surgery in the Department of Clinical Sciences at the Colorado State University College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences in Fort Collins. Your dog may not be active so in that case then the claws may be trimmed even more often than six to eight weeks. Every two to four weeks will probably be better.

2. Start trimming your dog’s claws as early as possible when they are a puppy so they can get used to the procedure. If you have ever experienced trying to get an adult dog to sit still while you are trimming their claws, then you have no idea of just how much hassle you will save yourself by conditioning your pup to go through this experience early in life.

3. Do not cut too much of the claw off. This is a mistake many novice ‘claw trimmers’ make with their pets when trimming for the first time. If you go too deep you will cut into the pink part of the nail that contains nerves and blood vessels. Try to view trimming your dog’s claws as dulling and not shortening.

January 20th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

3 ways to keep your yard tick-free

Did you know that a small tick can grow up to 50 times its normal size? We know this because a tick will attach itself to your dog and literally suck the blood from the dog’s body. Once they make contact with that first bite, they will then bury themselves deep into your flesh to suck as much blood as possible.

Ticks are not only intrusive and painful, they also risk the spread of diseases like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. The good news is that there are steps that you can take to keep ticks away from your dog.

1. Ticks like to hang out on vegetation that is several feet off of the ground so that they can pounce on you as you walk by. You can drastically reduce the ticks that inhabit your home yard and other surroundings by keeping your outside areas trimmed and clear of anything above ankle height. This removes the tick’s advantage point and therefore you have less chances of getting chosen for the tick’s next meal.

2. Take extra measures to minimize mice and other rodents in and around your house. Why? Because baby ticks tend to choose smaller animals to jump onto and feed from. This means that every small animal that is roaming your property is possibly carrying baby ticks whom are feeding from them and will eventually leap onto you. Be sure to clean up and remove areas like rock piles, old dump areas, etc. and this way you are taking the extra measures to reduce tick exposure.

3. If you are trying to clear out a tick problem and have too many mice running around then you may want to invest into a product called Damminix. Damminix is made up of cotton balls that are soaked with insecticide. What you do is place the cotton balls in specific areas where the mice will pick them up to help build their nests. Damminix will kill the ticks and fleas that are attached to the rodents but it does not harm the mice or any other small animals besides the parasites.

January 21st, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

4 easy steps to getting rid of fleas and keeping it that way!

Did you know that one single tiny little flea can build a family total of over 200,000 other fleas within one month? For every flea that you find I can guarantee you that there are at least 150 more somewhere in your house, your clothes, and your pet.

If you do not want to live with hundreds of thousands of little vampires, whom are sucking you and your dog’s blood out, then we have some very useful tips below.

Unfortunately, you cannot get rid of 100% of your flea problems but you definitely can take a few simple steps to controlling fleas in all areas that they inhabit. You have to realize that it is a never-ending battle, but if you’re diligent, you can win, says Philip Kass, D.V.M., Ph.D., associate professor of epidemiology at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine.

Follow these simple instructions and you’ll be on your way to controlling your flea problem.

1. Your first duty is to give your dog a bath. You may use a non medicated shampoo and this should wash away most of the fleas that are inhabiting your dog. If he is still scratching soon after the bath, then you may want to consider using a medicated flea shampoo instead.

2. Keep up with your dog by zapping his coat with a flea spray. You have plenty of flea spray brands to choose from on the market. Those containing the insecticides D-Limonene or pyrethrins (made from chrysanthemums) are effective and less toxic than some other sprays. When spraying your dog, be sure to avoid spraying into his eyes, mouth, nose, and ears.

You may also choose to use flea powder on your dog instead of a bath and spray. Although flea powders are not as effective as sprays, they can prove to be a very helpful step in the up-keep of keeping your dog flea-free.

3. If the flea infestation is really bad then you may want to consider a house spray, or fogger. It is recommended to use products that contain methoprene or fenoxycarb, which is another flea control hormone

4. Get out your vacuum cleaner! You may not have realized it but by simply vacuuming weekly you are aiding in the reduction and control of the fleas. When you vacuum, spend a little extra time vacuuming where your dog hangs out most often. When you are finished vacuuming up your house and the fleas, it is important to throw away the bag immediately

January 22nd, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

4 important tips to help get rid of your dog’s bad breath

Dog breath can be one of the most nauseating smells to most people. Everyone loves to run up and pet a dog when they see it walking with its owner but it is a huge turn off if your dog’s breath smells like week old trash!

If your dog has a problem that is causing his breath to wreak of bad odor, then the chances are that the root cause is plaque. With easy care you can turn those dog teeth around to brand new. Below are some tips:

1. Start off by getting into a routine of brushing your dog’s teeth about twice per day, just like you probably do for your own teeth. Remember, a dog’s teeth will develop plaque just like our own do and if you have not brushed your dog’s teeth in a long time then you can probably imagine what it would be like for your mouth if you went the same amount of time without brushing.

2. Brush your dog’s teeth from the time they are a puppy. Attempting to brush a full grown adult dog’s teeth for the first time will probably prove to be disastrous because it’s quite an odd experience having something jammed up in their mouths. So, if you do have a puppy or are planning on getting one then it would behoove of you start the teeth-brushing ritual early so that when the dog becomes an adult it will be conditioned to the experience of having its teeth brushed.

3. Try feeding your dog carrots as an afternoon snack. Be sure that they remain raw when you feed your dog because they act as a gentle ‘tooth scraper’ which helps to rub away the plaque.

4. Trade in the canned food for hard food. I realize that your dog probably loves the soft texture and the juicy flavor of his favorite canned food but your dog’s dental health will improve with hard foods, should you make the switch. A major benefit to switching to dry food is that the odor of the dog’s mouth clears up. This happens because the hard dry dog food acts as a ’scraper’ to the plaque.

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January 24th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

4 Tips to curb your dog’s household destructive behavior

As dog owners, you probably have experienced just how destructive your pets can be around the house. They knock things over and bite anything that they can get away with, even when they know they are not supposed to do it. Even a well trained dog whom have been properly taught not to destroy household items just can’t resist doing it.

The vast majority of behavior problems that you have with dogs are normal behavior patterns, but inappropriate for the setting in which they’re occurring, says Daniel Q. Estep, Ph.D., a certified applied animal behaviorist in private practice in Littleton, Colorado.

What that means is that it is perfectly normal for a dog to chew things up, but it just doesn’t mix well when you have your valuable stuff in the same area that the dog resides. The good news is that pets are quick learners so if you apply the following simple training tips then your dog will soon be off redirecting his ‘chewing energy’ onto something else.

1. Supply your dog with plenty of toys. Regardless if your dog is an adult or a puppy, be sure that there is always plenty of toys for them to chew on and play with. If your dog has plenty of its own chew toys around then it will tend to focus its energy on those toys instead of your belongings.

2. It is important not to give your dog toys to use, that actually belong to you. For example, we all love to give the dog our old tennis shoe right? It seems innocent enough, but think about that for a moment. You just gave your dog permission to chew and destroy something that belongs to you. Now how is he going to tell the difference between that shoe and your other belongings in the house? He is not going to be able to. In fact, you will confuse him even more.

3. Be quick to stop any type of unwanted chewing behavior immediately. Never let an instance go by where you caught your dog chewing up something that he shouldn’t have. If you let the dog get away with it even for just a few times, it will be that much harder to train him in the future.

4. Create a unique room just for the dog. Whether it is a full blown room or simply a crate, designating a place that your dog is sent to for disciplining or when you have to leave the house is a great way to help curb his natural instincts to chew up on everything.

January 24th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

4 Tips to help prevent your dog from coughing and hacking

If your dog has a cough then do not dismiss it as if you would a human cough. For people, it is normal to cough because nature has built in the cough as a protective measure to insure that our nose and throat passages stay clear of things like dust, bacteria, hairs, etc.

If your dog is coughing and it is something other than the occasional hairball, then take notice of how long your pet has the cough. If it goes on for more than a day then you may have a serious problem on your hands and you should contact a vet immediately. However, for those short term coughs that are caught in time and are not serious then we have some tips for you below to help soothe those dog coughs.

1. Keep your dog well protected by the elements of nature. Pollen, dust, fumes, or any other similar type items will just as easily cause your dog to cough as it would yourself. But the outdoors is not the only place that you need to protect your dog from. Cleaning products, carpet powders, and vacuuming all play a part in causing both people and dogs to cough. Try to keep your dog in the other room when you vacuum. Also, the summer months bring with it a lot of pollen that you should protect your dog from. You can do this by keeping your dog inside in the early morning and late afternoon hours.

2. Keep the air in your house humid but increasing the humidity. Dry air will cause your dog to develop mucus in the throat and airways which in turn signals the body to cough. You can easily alleviate this problem by investing into a humidifier for your house.

3. No more smoking! We all know that smoking is extremely bad for anyone or any animal breathing it in. In fact, it can be worse for your dog if they breath in cigarette smoke. There are several known cases where the family dog actually developed emphysema from the owner’s second hand smoke.

4. Try a cough suppressant. Vets recommend using a product containing the active ingredient dextromethorphan, such as Robitussin Maximum Strength Cough Syrup. But of course, always ask your vet which would be the right one for your dog.

January 25th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

5 Greyhound Home Training Guidelines

1. Do not use punishment when training your Greyhound dog. Such negative training protocols are not only cruel but will also hold your dog back from being trained at high levels of esteem and obedience. Such training tactics of ‘punishment’ include choking, shaking, or hanging. Your should respect your Greyhounds like you would a family member.

2. Refrain from making your Greyhound pay for his or her mistake repeatedly throughout the day. In other words, correct the dog and then be done with it. If you have the mindset of thinking that you should make your dog remember a ‘correction’ by repeating the punishment over and over all day then you are making a huge mistake. Yes, your Greyhound WILL remember something, just not what you are aiming at. Instead of the dog remembering what he did wrong and to not make the same mistake again, all your pet will remember is how upset you were throughout the day with no association to his actions.

3. Do not take shortcuts just to get your dog to stop a certain action. You will get what you pay for. Dogs will repeat certain actions based on what they get out of it regardless if you intend it or not. For example, if your Greyhound is crying to get out of the crate or cage, and you let her out just to stop the crying, then you will be stuck with a dog that will purposefully whine when you cage her, in order to get you to let her out.

4. When you talk to your Greyhound, say what you mean. Greyhounds are extremely smart and will take commands literally. Do not confuse them. For example if you have trained your dog to lie down using the DOWN command, then do not say the same thing if your dog is mistakenly up on the couch and laying down. She will already be DOWN in her mind so by getting upset at her you are only creating aggression.

5. Trade places with your dog’s mind. Try to think like a dog. Unlike people, dogs revel in the present and when they are getting punished their only thought is that it is because of their current behavior. Take this advice and use it when you discover a mess that she created. You cannot go into the next room and scold your sleeping dog, you MUST drag her (not forcibly) to the mess and then scold her.

January 28th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

5 guidelines that you must follow when teaching your puppy new things

Below are 5 important guidelines for you to follow when going through the motions of teaching your puppy to learn and to behave.

1. Be brief: If a child has a short attention span then you can imagine how short a puppys attention span is! Your puppy can only learn things while paying attention to you. If you are trying to teach the puppy new things repeatedly while she is mentally tired and physically un-rested, then you will not see the results you desire. Be brief when putting your pup through a training activity, then move on.

2. Be gentle: Your new puppy is extremely sensitive and cannot handle anything too emotionally or psychologically stressful. Although learning things takes place quickly, fears are also picked up from being trained too rough. And if fears are picked up easily then this can inhibit the puppys learning ability. Be nice, yet firm.

3. Be patient: Expecting overnight results will get you frustrated and probably cause your puppy training to loose focus, thus creating for bad feelings within the puppy. Relax and know that these things take time. Puppies will learn in spurts. They also go through lapses of memory. For example, one day your puppy may know an activity inside and out, and then the next day forget it entirely. This is normal. Simply be patient when it comes to the training.

4. Keep things as simple as possible: Teaching your puppy in a simple step-by-step manner is the best way to go. In fact all puppies learn best that way. Given an easy step-by-step approach, your puppy will learn its activities at a faster rate and with more enjoyment.

5. Always build confidence: Confidence is the heart of every healthy adult dog and it all starts with building confidence in your new pup. And it is not hard to do. All you need is to spend as much positive time with your puppy as you can. This in itself will go along way in building self confidence. Try not to always be in training mode. Step back at times. Sometimes just sit with your dog, play with him, let him roll around on you while you are having fun. Let him know you are his friend.

January 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

5 Myths about neutering

Many male down owners are reluctant to get their pets neutered. They have reasons that are, ironically enough, not due to the operating and surgical procedure of neutering, but rather because of several myths that float around. Unfortunately, most people accept these myths as facts.

Myth: My dog will be upset with me for not ever having a sexual experience. Canine sex drive has nothing emotional or romantic involved in it. It is purely instinctual and your dog cannot have any type of anger towards you for this. In addition, scientific studies show that dogs do not act out sexual behavior unless sexually stimulated. Believing this myth about your dog is simply an attitude of anthropomorphism.

Myth: My dog will become wimpy and sad. Having your dog neutered will have absolutely no effect on his strength. His stamina will also remain strong and resilient. And above all, your male dog might actually prove to be a happier one when all of those sexual frustrations have been quelled by the neutering surgery.

Myth: My dog will not a good watch-dog anymore. This is just completely false. There is nothing about your dog being a good watch-dog that will be effected by a neutering operation.

Myth: It is unnatural to neuter a male dog. In today’s world of the domesticated dog, there is nothing natural about its living. Dog’s are dependent upon people for their food, shelter, and even their health. They no longer run with the pack like a wolf so having your dog neutered is nothing new to the unnatural new world of the dog.

Myth: Neutering will make my dog get fat and lazy The only thing that will cause your dog to get fat is too much food and not enough exercise. If your dog gets fat then it will not be the operation that does it, but rather because the owner is not feeding the right amount of food to the dog as well as ignoring adequate exercise.

January 30th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

6 Ways to help train your dog not to dig

Let’s face it Dog’s love to dig, period. To a dog, digging ditches and holes is a very natural, highly enjoyable behavior, says Debra L. Forthman, Ph.D., a certified applied animal behaviorist at Zoo Atlanta in Georgia. Check out the tips below that we have compiled from several licensed veterinarians.

1. Give your dog more exercise. The more active your dog is the less likely that he will muster up the energy or the desire to spend hours digging in your yard. And try to choose the physical activities that your dog likes.

2. Be less scolding and more understanding with your dog’s digging habits during the winter months. During the winter time, you may notice that your Dog does more digging than the rest of the year. This is because dogs seem to have a natural instinct for earths warmer places and during the winter time the dog can sense that by digging he will get to a warmer area, and he is right. So the next time you notice that the digging is increasing more when it is cold outside then it would be wise to understand why your dog is doing what he is doing and not to scold him so much.

3. Refrain from doing any type of gardening work when your dog is around. When the dog sees you digging and playing in the yard then he also thinks that it is ok and will continue to dig those unwanted holes.

4. If you do not mind having your dog neutered or spayed then you may want to consider having the procedure done because it will reduce their drive to mate. And without the drive to mate, you will have far less holes in your yard.

5. When you scold your dog because of catching him digging in the yard then immediately replace the activity with another. The activity could be something as simple as playing fetch or chewing on his favorite toy.

6. Create a hole for the dog to call his own. Dog experts all agree that some dogs absolutely love digging so much that they will never quit. For those situations, it would be advisable to give the dog his own area to dig. The area does not have to be big, around 3-4 feet by 6 feet should do the trick.

February 2nd, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

8 Dog tips to help sooth bug bites and stings

To your pet, bites from mosquitoes and other insects can be very itchy and annoying, as well as stings from bees, wasps, and hornets. Although most bites and stings are not considered dangerous, they can cause a lot of pain and nuisance with your dog.

Below some suggestions on how to alleviate your dog’s pain and irritation that is caused by insect bites and stings:

1. Apply baking soda - An effective way to help soothe the discomfort is by gently rubbing on a paste of baking soda with water onto the bite or sting several times a day, says Larry Thompson, D.V.M., clinical veterinary toxicologist in New York. He stated that the alkalinity helps relieve the itch.

2. Try some meat tenderizer Dr. Thompson stated that meat tenderizers have enzymes that aid in breaking down the poison in insects stings and reduces the irritation. Create a paste by mixing the tenderizer with water, applying immediately to the sting. Repeat as necessary.

3. Break an aloe vera leaf Aloe vera is great for minor skin irritation. Applying a thin coat of gel from the plant soothes discomfort and relieves irritation. You can also buy aloe vera gel from pharmacies and health food stores.

4. Find the culprit If your dog was stung by a bee, chances are the stinger is still somewhere in his coat. To remove it, get a good view by parting his hair. Remove the stinger using your fingers or tweezers. If the stinger is in a visible area and can be easily removed, scrape it out with your fingernail. Doing this will prevent any added venom from entering the wound.

5. Aim for some ammonia E. Murl Bailey, Jr., D.V.M., PhD, a professor of toxicology at the Department of Veterinary Physiology and Pharmacology at Texas A&M University College of Veterinary Medicine stated that ammonia helps relieve the pain from insect bites and stings. He suggests dabbing ammonia right on the area with cotton.

6. Relieve with some milk of magnesia A medication that contains magnesium hydroxide which eases irritation and itchiness. Apply a thin coat a few times per day to your dog.

7. Cool it off Just like a person, your dog can be helped by applying cold compress reduces the swelling and eases the pain. Hold it in the area for about five minutes or longer, making sure that your pet is comfortable.

8. Try some over the counter Applying a thin coat of hydrocortisone cream is recommended for sore spots.
History of the Greyhound Dog: Part 1 of 4

The bloodline of the sleek and beautiful breed of Greyhound date far back in mankind’s history. In fact, Greek historians during the years 100 A.D. used to write about how Greyhounds were proudly owned by true sportsmen, whom would race their dogs with hares, while most other dogs were used to hunt them.

Yet the Greyhound’s roots are known to reach further beyond this point in history. There was a time when the dog was unleashed to provide meat for the survival of humans by chasing after fleeing flocks of game in the lands of North Africa and Arabia.

Greyhounds were trained to bring this meat back to people for all to share in eating, including the dogs. And since chasing prey for mankind’s survival was the main use of the Greyhounds, breeding them produced yet faster and faster dogs.

Did you know that the Greyhound dog was used as design on ancient tomb drawings? In fact, dogs of the Greyhound form were depicted on the toms of Ancient Pharaohs over 3,800 years ago. The beauty of the Greyhound, one of four things comely in going was recorded by Solomon in Proverbs (30: 29-31).

The value and use of the Greyhound back in those days was so vital, that they were rarely sold. On occasion the dog would be given as gifts to visitors that ranked high of important social levels. The Persian Greyhound, also called the Saluki, were presented to caravan traders in which through them found their way to the rest of the world.

Eventually, this breed of Greyhound found its way to Babylon, Afghanistan, Russia, Greece, Rome, and Britain. Because of the different climates and terrain, the Greyhounds bred into different sub-types. For example, in colder climates the think skinned Greyhound were bred with other native breeds to obtain a thicker coat. This produced dogs that still had the ability to hunt at fast speed in the winter time.

February 4th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

A closer look at your puppy’s first 3 stages in life

The first three months in your puppys life is a very important part in the development of his personality and behavior. His knowledge and experiences during these times set the groundwork and establishes the foundation of what is going to be his adult personality. The first three months are also referred to as the developmental months because it is during these months when puppies establish their fundamental patterns of behavior.

The first seven weeks is the stage where the puppy needs great amount of individual attention and a stimulating atmosphere. After the seven weeks, the new owner will then become responsible for the care and upbringing of the puppy that sets the introduction for the socialization stage.

The first three months of your puppys life or the developmental stage are divided into three periods. These periods are labeled by calendar time and estimate the beginning of the puppys experiences and behavioral pattern. Differences do occur depending on the breed and individual distinction within the litter, though litter mates usually catch up with each other by the end of the last period.

We have to be familiar with the traits of the different developmental periods in order to understand and know the needs of our puppy as he starts to grow. Below are the three periods of developmental stages that occur in your puppys life.

The Neonatal Period One to Fourteen days. This is the stage where the mother is the major influence in the puppys life. During this period, the puppy spends almost ninety percent of his time sleeping. He needs anal stimulation from the mother in order to urinate and defecate.

The Transitional Period Fifteen to Twenty one days. During this period, his eyes start to open although his eyesight is still dim. His teeth start to come out and he can defecate without the need for his mothers stimulus.

The Socialization Period Twenty two days to Eighty four days. This is the period where the puppy starts to become aware of his surroundings. He can see, hear, and his sense of smell is rapidly developing. This is the period where he reaches his full visual and hearing capacity and he begins to develop a great sense of curiosity.

February 6th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Are Greyhounds Good Pets To Have

Would you like to understand better how the Greyhound dog differs as a pet than other breeds of dog? Because of their slick aesthetic physical attributes and their speeding racing history, many people have preconceived misconceptions about how they may be as a household pet. In today’s article we will expand on educating you on the true nature of this spectacular looking breed of dog.

Greyhounds are very independent dogs because for centuries they were bred to chase without direction or interference from people. Be warned that your Greyhound will chase cats and other animals around the neighborhood if left unleashed.

If you think that your dog can be trusted to stay within the confines of your yard without a leash think again! No matter how well trained your dog it, you cannot count on your Greyhound to stay put. It’s in their blood to chase.

Compared to other hunting type dogs that have been domesticated as pets, the Greyhound will surprise you at just how easy it is to live with them. They are not overly dominant and hyperactive as many people think they are.

However, unlike other hunting dogs, Greyhounds were bred to release very quick bursts of energy which was used to quickly chase the target and be over with in minutes. What does this have to do with the dog as a pet? Well, because of this breeding trait, Greyhounds will sleep most of the day, conserving its energy. This is very similar to a cheetah habits.

That being said, Greyhounds does can work just fine as your pet even if you live in small spaced area like an apartment or small cottage. Since they do sleep a lot and are instinctively prepared to expend lots of energy at times through the day, you will have to be willing to exercise your Greyhound at regular intervals.

It is important to follow a very strict routine if you are going to own a Greyhound. When you take them outside for their exercise and runs, they will be accustomed to go to the bathroom during this outing. They will expect the same outdoor trips each day as well. Greyhounds are ex-racers, so keep in mind that you cannot leave them unsupervised when going outside.

February 12th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Basic questions on neutering the male dog

This article is not designed to tell you whether you should or should not neuter your male dog. Rather, you will find some basic educational questions and answers that will help educate you on the benefits that neutering may provide to both you and your dog.

What exactly is the procedure? When the male dog gets neutered, both of his testicles are surgically removed. The scrotum is not removed during the operation, just opened up to remove the testicles and then closed back up again.

Should every male dog get neutered if they are not going to be bred? It is not absolutely essential to have every non-breeding male dog undergo this operation. Many pet dogs have a naturally occurring sex drive and without behavioral problems that were influenced by male hormones, such as leg mounting, urinating indoors, etc. If such dogs are supervised by their owners and kept in a fenced yard without an opportunity to breed a wondering female in heat then having them neutered is not necessary. It’s your decision.

Is there any negative effects of having the male dog neutered? We have not heard of any cases where there are problems from having male dogs neutered. In most every case, having the surgery either improved the dog’s behavior or had no apparent effect. Neutering will never make your dog worse if that is your concern.

What type of undesirable behavioral problems should I look for as a reasons to neuter my dog? Although a large percentage of undesirable behavior problems stems from a lack of training, there are many issues that are a result of sexual frustration. If your dog has a habit of humping both objects and people often, then neutering him would more than likely ease this situation. Also, attempting to leave the yard and go roaming not only is a result of sexual frustration but is quite a pain to deal with when you have to look for your dog every night. This too can be alleviated by having your dog undergo the operation.

Are there any health benefits to having my male dog neutered? You may want to consider the fact that veterinarians find that some male dogs develop testicular disease as they age. This may or may not happen to your dog but if indeed he undergoes the surgery, testicular disease will never be an issue. Having your dog neutered may also help him have much lower chances for problems such as prostate glands and cancerous growths. You are encouraged to discuss any of these ailments with your veterinarian as well as ask questions about neutering your dog.

February 15th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Dog’s & Heartworms

If your dog has heartworms then he more than likely recieved it from a mosquito bite. Mosquitoes in most any part of the country carry these heartworms, particularly on the Gulf and Atlantic coasts. If your dog is not protected by preventative medication, then the chances are likely that the heartworm will be passed onto your dog from even a single mosquito bite.

As the name describes, these little worms live in the heart of its host, literally. The dangers they cause to the animal range with negative effects. Shortness of breath is typically the first sign of the dog having heartworms. You will also notice coughing, rapid breathing, and weight loss. Although rare, death can also be the end result of an infestation of heartworms. Although other animals can also contract heartworms, they are more prevalent with dogs.

Unfortunately there is no possible way to keep your dog from being bitten by mosquito, the only thing that you can do is take preventative measures. The best thing to do is contact the vet before making any decision as to what medication you will order for your dog. In the meantime, we have some useful tidbits of information below:

1. Don’t wait until your dog has a problem before you prescribe him the medication. All veterinarians advise that all animals get these shots because even though they may be bitten by an infected mosquito, their blood stream will fight it off from the medicine. The medication comes in two types in which one pill is formulated to be given daily, the other to be given monthly.

Those that live in colder areas may only have to give the pill to their dogs during mosquito season, but many vets like to play it safe and prescribe the pills all year, says Paul Schmitz, D.V.M., a veterinarian whom owns a private practice in Joliet, Illinois.

2. Do not avoid having your dog medicated just because you are confident that he does not go outside much and will not be infected with heartworms, or so you believe. Remember, all it takes is one mosquito to get in and pass along this worm.

3. Be sure to get a blood test before asking for the heartworm medication. The reason why you should have your dog tested first is because it could be dangerous to administer heartworm medication to a dog that is already infected. For any further questions on this matter, please consult your local veterinarian.

February 21st, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Dogs and Children

A training class or obedience school is a place where you, the owner, are being coached by an experienced instructor on how to train your dog. This is a great way to educate your loyal buddy. Not only will you and your dog learn useful things together, but you also get an opportunity to spend non-interrupted quality time together that will tighten your connection. This is also a good place for your dog to be able to hang out with other dogs.

The objective of the class is for you to know the methods and techniques on how to train your dog. A basic training class typically deals with your main interests and concerns such as coming when being called, sitting and standing on command, and not pulling the leash.

When you take your dog to a training school, do not expect the coach or instructor to train your dog. His or her job is to explain and show you what to do. The instructor will first demonstrate the procedure and then have you try it a few times to make sure that you understand how its done and are able to do it correctly. You are then expected to practice it on your own with your dog for at least five times a week.

When you and your dog enroll at a training school, it is necessary and often expected that you attend every session. Generally, most training is done in sequence. Once you miss a class, you may find it difficult to catch up.

Word of mouth is usually your best bet in finding a good training school. You can ask for references from family, friends, and veterinarians. If you dont know anyone who can refer you to one, check the Internet or yellow pages under the heading Dog training or Pet school. Call the school first to find out their place and time of meeting. Most schools give you an opportunity to observe the class. This is a great way to find out if the school will be suitable for you and your dog. When observing a class, it is best to leave your dog at home so he does not interrupt the training.

Here are a few questions to consider while observing a class:

* What is your first impression?
* Does it have a good, positive feeling?
* Is it a nice and welcoming atmosphere?
* Observe how the instructors interact with the dogs. Is he or she nice and gentle, or does he or she generate fear and aggression?
* Observe how the instructor deals with the dog owners, especially with those who are having a hard time training their dogs. It is important to have an instructor who is patient, helpful and encouraging.
* Are the dogs enjoying themselves, or do they appear bored and anxious?

March 1st, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Dogs Natural Instinct

Your dogs most important instinct is the pack instinct. This is essential information for you to know in order to have a happy and comfortable relationship with your dog. Knowing about your dog’s inherent pack instinct is so significant because this is what establishes your connection with your pet.

Even at the stage of puppy hood, dogs are very outgoing and sociable animals. They like to be around and live with other sociable beings in a cluster or pack. A hierarchy is created within that pack. At the top of the ranking is the leader, the most assertive one in the group. He is the head of the pack, the one who makes the rules and sees that they are being followed. He is the one who makes most of the decisions.

Next you will have a second leader, then the third one, down to the most passive and submissive of all. Knowing exactly their status and where each one stands with one another is what creates security and camaraderie.

Dogs have pact instincts, meaning that they like to belong and be a part of the team. That is why they fit so perfectly as a member of the human family. Unlike cats that are ant-sociable and very independent animals, dogs are pack animals that are very outgoing and happier with being part of the group.

Once the puppy becomes a part of your household, even if the household is just you, a pack is automatically created, at least in your puppys point of view. His inherent instinct will immediately compel him to look for its structure. Who will be the leader? Who will be the follower? Because most dogs are not secure in an environment without a leader, you need to establish yourself as the leader right away or he will assume the position himself.

Most dogs are very content and happy to be followers as long as you are willing and able to be the leader. But how do you do that? How do you hold the position of being the leader of the pack?

Establishing yourself as the leader of the pack should begin immediately, preferably in the puppy hood stage. Below are some suggestions on how you can establish leadership with your dog:

1. Praise and reward him whenever he demonstrates good behavior.
2. Stop him right away whenever he does something that you do not like.
3. Train him how to obey.
4. Develop consistency with house rules. If he was not allowed on the bed yesterday, then hes not allowed on the bed today.
5. Be firm that he behaves in public.
6. Be firm that he behaves and accepts being groomed.

March 10th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Dont punish your puppies! Discipline them

There is simply no right way of punishing young puppies. You just dont do it. Punishing your puppy is not a good start to having a loving relationship with them. Puppies are just like human babies and they do not understand acts of punishment. Punishing your puppies only gives them the impression that you do not like them, which in turn causes them to be shy or unresponsive toward you.

Striking your puppy with a rolled up newspaper, or even worse, spanking him with your hand is a very cruel act and should not be done, for whichever type of misbehavior he shows. Although it may seem to work on short term your puppy stops what hes doing (his bad behavior) and appears to be sorry for his actions, punishing your puppy could result to a long term repercussion.

At worst, your puppy builds up a defense mechanism wall that might keep you from having that special bond with him. This wall could also result in your puppy’s complete loss of trust and confidence in you. Minimally, you may have a hard time communicating with him as he gets older, which could affect your training and your dogs listening ability.

Another form of punishment is shouting: mad, loud, and poignant shouting. A loud and mean tone of your voice can send an impulse of fear to your tender puppy. If your pup has a personality of a rather stubbornness or dominance type, he will most likely turn indifferent to you.

Sure, puppies do need discipline sometimes. They need to know things that they are not supposed to be doing. They need to learn how to behave correctly, with family as well as strangers. Your attitude plays a very important role in disciplining your puppy. And above any kind of way to discipline your young dog, it is very important that he knows that you love him.

March 16th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Eye Care for your Greyhound

At the slightest sign of an eye problem, take your Greyhound to the vet immediately! When dealing with your doggy’s eyes, you do not have the luxury to wait it out to see if the problem gets worse because it usually will and by then more unnecessary damage will have occurred.

On a regular basis, take notice if your Greyhound’s eyes and check for redness, itchiness, squinting, or mucus running discharge. It is even recommended to check the pupils and see if they move in reaction to light or if they differ in movement to the other eye. This could be a sign of a serious ocular or even a neurological problem.

3 Types of eye discharge:

1. A thick mucus discharge typically is an indicator of a major problem and your dog must see a vet immediately.

2. If you see a clear watery discharge in your Greyhound’s eyes, then that could be a symptom of allergies, a small object lodged into the eye, or a tear drainage issue.

3. If you discover a LOT of water drainage over the eye and onto the face then it could be the result of a clogged tear drainage duct. A simple test by your veterinarian can pinpoint this problem.

What is Pannus and are Greyhounds susceptible to this eye condition more than other dog breeds?

Pannus is an eye condition that involves the clear outer cornea of the eye. It is typically first discovered as a sort of cloudiness of the cornea, possibly with tears. Over a period of a few weeks this will progress until a thin web of blood vessels spreads inward toward the center of the cornea.

If you let Pannus progress beyond this point then your Greyhound’s vision could be seriously impaired. Treatment is considered to help by keeping your dog away from ultraviolet light while keeping her indoors most of the time. And yes, Greyhounds are much more prone to getting Pannus than most other dog types.

March 31st, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Final Greyhound Tips - The old Greyhound

One day you look up at your Greyhound and realize that it’s been over 10 years or more since you brought your cherished family member home. By the look of the silvered colors of the coat, the ever so slow movements he walks in, and the non-stop sleeping, you feel a sudden sadness in realizing that your once lightning fast and young Greyhound pup is now a very old dog whom needs extra care.

Their physical activity will have decreased so much that you will need to feed the dog fewer calories into his old age than previously. There are some breed of dog that need a special diet when they reach a certain age but most Greyhounds do not require any particular diet unless there is a medical need for it.

Feeding amounts during the day should differ slightly for the older Greyhound. For the most part in his early years, you probably fed the dog one heaping meal per day. Now that he is old, your Greyhound should be fed several smaller meals spaced out. If he has dental problems, as most older dogs do, then you can help him enjoy his meal easier by moistening up the dry food or feed him soft canned food all-together.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Further breaking down your puppy’s first 12 weeks

Your puppys behaviors during the first three months are called the Developmental Periods. These are the stages starting from birth, which is the Neonatal Period between the first two weeks of his life all the way to the Environmental Awareness period, which is the period lasting between ten to twelve weeks of age.

Developmental periods are an essential part in your puppys growth. This is the stage where your puppy develops his own unique personality that will be the basis for his behavior as a mature dog. It is also the stage where he becomes aware of his identity and learns about the environment around him.

It is helpful to know these periods in your puppys life in order for you to have a better understanding of how to take care of him. Below is a list on what to expect during your puppys developmental periods.

One to two weeks This is the stage when inherent behaviors are seen. They are crying, sucking, touching, and crawling. They have no ability to learn anything at this period. They sleep about ninety percent of the time. They have no sense of sight and sound and are very susceptible to cold temperatures. They need their mother’s touch to stimulate urination and defecation.
Three weeks They start to walk at this age. Their eyesight and hearing are dim but developing rapidly. They are starting to urinate and defecate without their mother’s stimulus and are starting to develop interest with the rest of the litters.
Four weeks They start to become aware of the many sights and sounds around them. They realize that people are significant but that their mother is still the most important part of their lives.
Five weeks The stage where they are not scared of anything. They start to become very alert. They are developing awareness to people and are starting to play with them.
Six weeks They have full development of eyesight and hearing. They are very curious and love to explore. Their legs are getting stronger.
Seven weeks This is where you can start housebreaking them. Puppies in this stage are very involved with their own needs and are not likely to respond when being called.
Eight and nine weeks They begin to respond more to their name and start following you around. They are cautious about new things.
Ten to twelve weeks They respond to their name at all times and start to come when being called. They are more dependable with housebreaking and learn not to get stepped on.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Greyhound Dental Care

If your Greyhound is biting correctly, then the top incisors will fit snugly in front of the bottom incisors. And the top canines will fit right in just behind the bottom canines. It is important for your dog to have correct occlusion.

Some Greyhounds have a very significant overbite in which the upper incisors fall far in front of the lower incisors. This condition is associated with what is called base-narrow canines. This means that the bottom canines are displaced inward. When the Greyhound closes its mouth, those bottom canines will pierce the palate. You must have the canines which are causing the pain to be capped and/or cut down to an acceptable level.

Brush those teeth!

As common as it may seem, the best solution and care for your dog’s teeth is regular teeth brushing sessions each day. If your Greyhound does not enjoy the stinging mint taste of human toothpaste then there is a toothpaste product specifically designed for dogs that tastes like meat. While that may not sound appealing to you and me, your dog sure will love it and look forward to the daily brushing ritual.

A common mistake by Greyhound owners, and all other dog owners for that matter, is that it is not necessary to brush a dog’s teeth. They believe that all you need to do is have your dog chew dental biscuits, carrots, or rawhide, in order to keep the dog’s teeth and gums clean.

This is absolutely false. In fact, while those chew items do help, they only offer minimal assistance at actually removing plaque. And if this plaque is not removed thoroughly by brushing your Greyhound’s teeth, then it will attract bacteria and minerals which will harden and become tartar.

Greyhounds are very teeth-brushing friendly

Most dogs are very unnerving when it comes to sitting still while you scratch a strange brush in and out of their mouth. They are not used to the experience and will fight you all of the way. Luckily, the Greyhound is bred to be very corporative with humans, especially when being groomed

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Greyhounds - Tender Training

Greyhound dogs are lightening fast learners. This particular breed of dog will surprise you with how much they can learn and at extremely obedient levels. First you must realize that the old fashioned days of training your Greyhound dogs by force is far from productive. Greyhounds are very responsive to training, so long as only the gentlest of techniques are used.

You don’t even have to run your dog though an obedience school if you are the proud owner of a Greyhound. Of course, if you can find a training class that understands the gentle, sensitive nature of these dogs, then attending the school can only be an asset.

Finding such a class that trains in a soft fashion may prove to be difficult, because most are designed to deal with rough and out-of-control disobedient dogs, and not high quality breeds like the Greyhounds that are eager to learn. The methods they use are forceful and with lots of repetition designed to dominate and calm the dogs. These types of training protocols are not good for Greyhounds and if you cannot find a trainer to match your needs then you are better off training the dog on your own.

You will be pleased to know that training your Greyhound will differ from training other dog types because of their genetics. For example, it is normal for most dog owners to train their pets to overcome aggression. Greyhounds on the other hand, have very little aggression in their bloodline and the time spent getting them used to people and other dogs without fear is minimal.

Another key point to know that may help you understand a lack of fear that Greyhounds possess is their history. Greyhounds are natural built race dogs in which increases their tendency to be brave.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Greyhounds and Arthritis

It’s inevitable that every dog will get older. And with age comes physical ailments that your dog will learn to live with unless the pain is too much to bare. One such ailment that especially hits older Greyhounds, after years of running and chasing, is arthritis.

Degenerative joint disease (DJD), which is another name for arthritis, is a very common cause of intermittent stiffness and lameness. It is hard to pinpoint the cause of arthritis is some older dogs but in others you will find it to be a result of abnormal stress and trauma to the joint(s). And eventually this leads to degeneration of the cartilage and the underlying bone.

The synovial membrane surrounding the joint becomes inflamed and the bone develops small bony outgrowths called osteophytes. When these changes occur, the joint stiffen, become painful, and have decreased range of motion. Surgery may be the last alternative if the disease has gone too far.

If your Greyhound’s joints have suffered too much damage from years of heavy running and racing, then even surgery will not prevent the incurable arthritic changes that have taken place. The initial problem may be helped by an operation, but not for the long haul.

To help your Greyhound live out it’s years with less pain as possible from arthritis then you can can do simple things like keeping the dog’s wight down and allow your dog to do light impact exercise. Swimming is a great example of such activities that is easy on the joints.

There are even some drugs that your vet can prescribe for your Greyhound dog to help with the pain of living with arthritis. For example, there is a drug called carpofen that helps immensely but be sure to consult and follow your vet’s instructions when it comes to any medical care or drug use for your dog.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

Grooming your Greyhound

Thanks to your Greyhound’s smooth thin coat, grooming your dog is relatively low maintenance compared to other longer haired breeds. When brushing your Greyhound, all you need is to go over the coat once or twice with a soft brush or even a damp cloth. Your goal when brushing your dog is to loosen dirt and impart a good sheen to the hair.

If your Greyhound is kept indoors most of the year with artificial lighting, then expect fur shedding year round. In addition, the spring season will bring about an extra major shedding occurrence. During this ’spring shedding’ season, your Greyhound should be brushed with vigor once every day using a bristle or rubbery curry brush. It is also normal to have more hair shed after bathing your dog, and dead hairs are easy to dislodge when the coat is almost dry.

Greyhounds do not have to be bathed often to keep their coat clean and smooth, but she will be much more enjoyable to hold close if you do give semi-often baths. Although nothing can take the place of a real water & shampoo bath, an alternative is to use a rinse-free shampoo in between washings. These products are great for low maintenance of your Greyhound. You simply apply the shampoo to your dog’s coat, rub in thoroughly, and let dry.

Dog shampoo is the best product to use when bathing your Greyhound. Do not use human shampoo. People have different pH values than dogs do. While human skin has a pH of 5.5, your Greyhounds has a pH of 7.5. This means that if you use our shampoo on your pet then his skin could lead to scaling and irritation.

The easiest area to wash your Greyhound is in a bathtub with a hand-held spray gun. You do not want your doggy to be cold, so warm the room first by running hot water to produce steam. To avoid the dog from slipping, be courteous and provide a rubber mat on the floor of the tub.

Start the bath by wetting down your Greyhound to the skin. Leave the head for last. Work the shampoo up to a lather and refrain from letting any get water or shampoo into the dog’s eyes. Work this lather to his entire body, and lastly the head portion. You must rinse, of course, but be especially detail oriented by getting every last drop of shampoo out of your Greyhound’s fur during the rinse. Leftover shampoo that dries could cause your Greyhound’s skin to develop severe itchiness and dryness

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

History of the Greyhound Dog Part 2 of 4

During Part I of our discussion about the history and origin of the Greyhound breed we touched up on their natural speed which helped them become great game hunters in the lands of North Africa and Arabia, as well as sport racers in the lands of Egypt. And because Greyhounds were of high value to people, they were commonly given as gifts and traded with caravan traders which brought them to the rest of the world.

There became a breed of Greyhound that most resembles our current look of the dog breed known as sighthounds. The quintessential sighthound is the Greyhound of today. In fact, the sighthounds of Greece, Rome and Britain are the breed that most resemble today’s Greyhounds.

By the Saxon times, the Greyhounds in Britain had ranked very high in value to the commoners. These dogs had the ability both feed the family and offer the people nobility for the sport of the chase.

Interestingly enough, the year 1014 marked the beginning of a 4-century-long stage of the Greyhound history. It was known as the Enactment of the Forest Laws. This meant that serfs and slaves had no rights to own a Greyhound dog.

Under the Forest Laws, the Greyhound dog breed were only to be owned and raised by freemen. And those who did own a Greyhound dog living near the royal forests had to have their dogs lamed by having three toes off of the paw chopped off or by having the dog’s knee ligaments severed.

What was the point reason for this cruel and unusual practice of mutilating the Greyhound? Well this law was introduced to prevent a commoner from hunting game for food at the expense of royal sport.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

History of the Greyhound Dog Part 3 of 4

In this 3rd section about the history of the Greyhound dog breed, we will discuss how this beautiful animal worked its way from being the victim of the Forest Laws to being the favorite of the nobles for sportsmanship racing games.

To quickly recap on these forest laws of the year 1014: The laws were created so that freemen of the lands could not use their Greyhound dogs to hunt game for food, because it was only the nobles and the rich that could acquire fresh kill for their feasts. The sheer speed and training ability of these dogs were immense, and so they were great hunters for man. Under this law, no slave or serf were legally allowed to own a Greyhound.

As tough as it is to imagine, the law required that all Greyhound dogs owned by freemen of the royal forests were to have either three of their toes chopped off or get the ligament in their legs severed. This would prevent the dogs from chasing and bringing back game to the commoners, which was considered only the right of the nobles.

Eventually, after several centuries, this law was repealed. Even so, the Greyhound dog breed still held its place as a dogs of nobility. But with the growth of agriculture and domestic animals used for food, needing the Greyhound to hunt game and gather meat was needed by the people less and less.

Since hunting for prey was outdated at the time, Greyhounds became the target of great sportsmanship in racing by both the nobles and the commoners. This was known as coursing. A coursing enthusiast, Elizabeth I created rules where the Greyhound dogs could be fairly judged for the new sport coined the sport of queens. In fact, the first coursing sport was formed in the year 1776. It was during the 1800’s that the upper-class considered coursing one of their favorite pastimes.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

History of the Greyhound Dog Part 4 of 4

We hope that you have enjoyed our ‘crash-course’ about the history of Greyhounds so far. In today’s article we will wrap up our 4-part series by continuing from the point in history where Elizabeth I, whom was a coursing enthusiast, created the sport of queens in which she had the Greyhound breed as the star race dog.

The sport attracted many contributors, including a man named Lord Orford, whom in the late 1700’s set his goals on improving the Greyhound by mixing them with other breeds of dog. Being a devoted fan of coursing himself, the goal was to create faster and more agile dogs from the practice of cross breeding. Of course he was not always successful. At one point he bred a Greyhound with a Bulldog, which back in those days looked like today’s Pit Bull.

Needless to say this mix breed did not fair well on the course and caused ridicule from Lord Orford’s competitors. Because of this contempt he worked hard at breeding mixed breeds with Greyhounds for seven entire generations. And then, ultimately shocking his competitors, Lord Orford used what he considered his best crossbreed and won every course he sported. It was his hybrid Czarina which could not be beat. It can be said that every current day Greyhounds may very well stem from this mix of Bulldog and Greyhound of the past.

Speaking of today’s Greyhound, America was introduced to the dog breed when the Spanish brought them during their expeditions in the early 1500s. When the European explorers would travel cross country, it was quite common to be accompanied by a Greyhound dog for the entire trip.

The Greyhound breed really became a massive dog population when the settlers started to set up home and farm in the Midwest. Crops that were grown became overrun by jackrabbits and the best solution at the time was to bring Greyhounds from Europe as ‘vermin control’.

And naturally, the speed and agility of the Greyhound brought about the sport of coursing here in American as well. A popular pastime for the settlers was to watch the coursing of jackrabbits, coyotes, and other animals by the fast Greyhounds. Did you know that General Custer owned a large amount of them, as well as Teddy Roosevelt being an avid hunter alongside his Greyhound dogs?

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

How Greyhounds are introduced to the racing track

Breeding the Greyhound to become a race dog officially starts then when they are approximately twelve months old. Up until that age they were of course handled to get their luring training underway and their strength built up. But it is at that time when the Greyhound pup will be moved from their first home to a training facility.

It is at the training facility where the Greyhound’s formal education starts. The dog will get used to living in a cage or a small kennel. Every single day after that point for the dog will be a routine one. Starting in the morning the race dog will begin with one of three or more turnouts of the day. In order to protect the dogs whom engage in play, they will each wear a kennel muzzle when in a group.

Training the Greyhound dog breed to chase lures does not have to be forceful. These dogs have been bred for thousands of years to chase and hunt. And even today, a Greyhound is just itching to chase something, anything, that moves. It is not necessary to build any sort of blood lust for chasing animals.

Live rabbits are not used for luring the Greyhound dogs to race. Live animals of any sort are not permitted for racing or even for training to race. So any trainer who gets caught using a rabbit instead of a lure to attempt to bring an edge to his Greyhound will get barred from all future NGA competitions. Only a motorized lure is used on the track to entice the dogs.

When training the pups on the track, the lure will build up enthusiasm by tempting the dogs outside of their runs. Yearlings are allowed to chase the fast speed lure in a straight line. This lure is motorized by what is called a jack-o-lure.

Next, the dogs are trained to make high speed turns with a tool called the whirly-gig. This whirly-gig will move the lure around in a small circle run after run. And finally, at this level of training, the Greyhound pups will get their first introduction to a real track lure and will learn how to quickly break from a starting box while running with other race dogs.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

How much do you have to invest when purchasing a new puppy

Theres a lot more to owning a puppy than what you might think. You have to make sure that this really is what you want and that you can afford all the aspects of owning one. You would also need to evaluate your personality and your present and future lifestyle and make sure that you have room for owning a dog.

Financially speaking, your purchase price of getting a puppy will vary. You may get lucky and have nothing to pay, if you are getting the puppy from a friend or a relative; $40 and up if you are getting the puppy from an animal shelter; and $300 and up if you are getting the puppy from a breeder.

In some cases, you may need to spend more. If you are interested in raising a puppy for breeding or showing, then you are likely to pay more. Also, if you are interested in getting a tiny breed, you are more likely to pay extra because tiny breeds can only produce one to two puppies per litter. The breeder will have to charge you more if he is to profit from it. Examples of tiny breeds include Chihuahua, Chow Chow, Pug, Pekingese, Bulldog, Shih Tzu, English Toy Spaniel, and Japanese Chin.

You will also have to pay more if you are interested in acquiring a breed that is not recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC). Hundreds of foreign breeds from all over the world have very little quantity in the U.S. Owners and breeders who are fascinated in a foreign breed of dog must spend more money to be able to import good representatives as well as paying extra for the puppies.

But if you just want a simple nine week old puppy of a regular breed, one that will become a beloved member of your family and is not intended to be a stud dog or a show dog, then you should not have to spend more than $700.

April 29th, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

How to build your puppys self confidence through friendship

If you want your puppy to grow up as a fast learner with a remarkable ability to learn new tricks and training protocols on a whim, then building the pups self confidence is the key. It is a proven fact that the more self confidence a puppy has, the more quickly he will learn things.

Teaching your dog self confidence is very easy. Simply talk to your puppy. Always tell him how much of a good dog he is (of course only when he is being good, and not doing bad things). It also helps to keep your puppy with you as much as humanly possible. This does not mean that you need to be attached to him by the hip, just that so long as it is convenient to have the puppy by your side when you can. Just do not isolate her for long periods of times. This can be detrimental for your dogs development and many new dog owners who do not have a lot of time do to work or travel, make this mistake.

You do not have to always be directly stimulating your puppy in order to build self confidence. There are many ways in which you can spend time with your puppy indirectly while you are doing other activities. For example you may be watching television or sitting on the patio reading while your dog is by your side. Occasionally talk to your pup and pet her.

Allow your puppy to sit at your feet while you are in the kitchen washing dishes. Many small dogs absolutely love doing this. In fact, all four of my Chihuahuas loved to gather at my feet while I was in the kitchen. Just be careful as this could be dangerous if you trip over them.

Basically, all that is needed to build self confidence in your puppy is to spend a lot of time alone with the dog. Play with him. Groom him while saying nice things to him. And of course, start teaching your puppy simple new tricks that are both fun and safe, like learning to sit, come, stay, etc.

May 2nd, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

How to clean your dog of SKUNK spray

Dogs will be dogs and that includes smelling bad after having wondered outside to play in nature. However, there are those rare occasions when he ventured into something a little more on the yucky side a Skunk!

Dog’s get skunked on more than one occasion, especially when they have the luxury to wonder free on a large outside property. Do not worry if you have never smelled a skunk smell before, you will be able to tell immediately. The scent is horribly penetrating to the nose and if you think it is bad for us, imagine how your dog feels after having been the target of the skunk spray!

If your dog ever gets skunked then be sure to follow these tips below to help clear both your dog and the air:

1. Be sure to look first at your dog’s eyes to check for saturation of the skunk spray. It won’t make him blind, but it’s very painful, says Veronika Kiklevich, D.V.M., who is an instructor and head of community practice division at the Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine in Pullman. Veronika advises to wash out the dog’s eyes with the same solution people would use to provide relief.

2. Wash your dog thoroughly, but do so only outside! If you wash your dog inside of the house then the nasty smell of skunk will be around for weeks. Be sure to wear rubber gloves or latex gloves. Also, pet shampoo of any kind will do the job, but be sure to repeat the wash about 2-3 times.

3. It’s time for tomato juice! Experts are not sure just how it works, but pouring tomato juice on your dog and rubbing it in does wonders for chasing away that skunk smell. After your dog is washed and totally dry, you literally pour the tomato juice on and rub it in thoroughly within the coat. Let is soak for about 30 minutes or as long as you can keep your dog still. WARNING: If your pet has white fur, then be prepared for a pinkish looking animal roaming the house for a little while. But do not worry, this will fade.

May 2nd, 2006 by Administrator | No Comments »

3 Common Dog Training Mistakes

July 24th, 2008 by Administrator | Comments Off

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