Dog Care Guide

AKC vs RBDA: What’s the difference?

What is all the hype about our dogs belonging to a club? Many pet owners do not even belong to a club. Dog owners, who take pride in their pets, will generally register their dogs in some kind of kennel club, especially if they plan to breed their dog. Registered dogs tend to cost a little more and are more appealing to dog buyers.

AKC stands for American Kennel Club. It is the most well known kennel club in the United States. They are dedicated to supporting the sport of pure breeds. They were found back in 1884 and they are a promoter of responsible dog ownership. Although the AKC is dog friendly, no matter the status of the breed, they believe that purebred dogs are more predictable in several aspects. Hence, they believe that purebreds make better pets. Half of American homes have pets and 36% of them are dog owners; Therefore, more emphasis should be placed on the subject.

The AKC stays very active. They encourage the sport of purebred dogs. They sponsor over 15,000 dog competitions a year

The AKC deals with approximately one million applications a year. Although, they do not specialize in the selling of purebreds. Because of this, they can not vouch for the health of the animal.

If you were to purchase a dog that comes from an AKC registered blood line, you will also receive an application for your dog�s registration. Someone who is buying an AKC registered dog must realize that the certification is in no way guarantying that the dog is in perfect health or that the quality of the dog is without flaw. It is only stating that the canine is a direct offspring of a known sire (stud/father) and dam (mother/bitch) and that it is born on a factual date. They must also be from the same breed. In order to register a litter of puppies, the sire and dam must be AKC registered and the litter born in the US. The owner of the litter wanting to register the litter must fill out an application which requires basic information such as: date of mating and birth, the number of males and females born in the litter, the sire and dam�s registered names and numbers and lastly the owner�s address and signature. You must fill out the form and send it back to the AKC. They, in turn, will send you paperwork for each individual puppy to be filled out partly by you. Once the puppies have been purchased, the new owner will have to fill out the remaining information and send it back, with a fee, the AKC. After they have processed your application, you should receive an official AKC Certificate in the mail.

The Rare Breed Dog Association is another type of dog registration. You may wonder what exactly is a �rare dog breed.� In simple terms, it is a dog that the American Kennel Club does not recognize. They have a number of services they offer such as: Public awareness of the rare breed dog; Education of the rare breed dog; Registration of the rare breed dog; as well as rare breed dog shows. Their goal is to watch over the �Rare Breed Dog� in the US and educate the public of the over 130 rare dog breeds that are out there. The RBDA have a number of groups that they represent. The following are dog groups along with a few of the actual breeds they represent:

Companion Group (American Hairless Terrier, Bolognese, Cavalier King Charles)

Herding group (King and English Shepherd, Akbash)

Hound group (Basset Artesien Normand, Black Forest Hound, Batard)

Spitz group (Canadian Estimo Dog, Carolina Dog, Chinook)

Sporting group [( Barbet, Boykin Spaniel, Bracco Italiano) These sporting group dogs are located in the Gundog group located in various in Europe]

Terrier group (American Pit Bull Terrier, Cesky Terrier, Jadgterrier)

Working group ( Aidi, Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog, American Bulldog)

Whether you have a rare breed dog or a purebred dog, there our resources out there to get your dog registered. Once again, either way you go, it does not prove the quality of the animal, just the family line. Although, if purchasing a dog, buying an AKC or RBDA registered dog is the best way to tract the history of the dog. Either way, a dog is a dog. They serve a variety of purposes, and as long as they are fulfilling that purpose, that is what�s important.

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October 29th, 2005 by Administrator | Comments Off

Animal Assisted Therapy: Can it help you?

The term “animal assisted therapy” is to be distinguished from the more familiar practice of “animal assisted activities”, which refers generally to pet visitation at hospitals and residential care facilities.

Animal Assisted Therapy is part of a formal and carefully designed treatment program with specific and measurable objectives that matches one animal to one patient. Under the guidance of a trained medical professional, patients with severe mental and/or physical disabilities are encouraged to interact with a “therapy dog” under the supervision of a trained dog handler. The patient’s interaction with the dog is increased gradually. Initially, the patient may merely observe the dog or touch it. As the patient becomes more responsive and confident, activities may include brushing, attaching collars and even walking the dog. Progress records are maintained as milestones are met and exceeded.

Studies have shown that therapy pets motivate people to participate in therapeutic interactions. Dogs are not judgmental, they don’t hassle or pressure their partner and they have endless patience. Further, simply because they are animals and require care, the patient grooming them or walking them is made to feel useful.

The benefits and expectations of animal assisted activities, or pet visits, vary according to the needs and conditions of the patients being visited. Pet visits are less formal; they do not follow a particular treatment plan or schedule and they are not usually set up on a one pet to one patient scenario. Pet visits are common to hospitals, assisted living homes and nursing homes. They are often nothing more than a way to entertain people or to change their routine and brighten their day. On the other hand, when visited by a pet, some people who have basically shut themselves off from human interaction will begin to work their way back to reality. Apparently, the pet stirs emotions in them that have been lying dormant. Examples have been given where patients who have not spoken a word in over a year will begin to talk to the visiting dog.

Now that pet therapy has become a proven and documented reality, institutions are beginning to capitalize on this phenomenon with the “resident pet.” This term refers to a cat or a dog that becomes a permanent resident of a particular facility and is usually given free run of the place. Each resident benefits from a proprietary interest in the animal and looks forward to assisting in its care. In some cases, a full course of therapy has been designed around the care and feeding of a resident pet. The residents meet to discuss what must be done and develop their own charts and schedules to accommodate the pet’s needs. However, staff must be constantly on the alert to avoid problems of jealousy and feuds over the pet’s affections.

The attributes and characteristics that comprise a good visiting dog or therapy dog have more to do with temperament than training. Not to say that the dog will not need training in basic obedience, but that is normally sufficient except in extraordinary situations. Patients and residents react to the dogs in a variety of ways. Some are effusive, some impulsive and others are shy. Therefore, the dogs must be ready for anything. It surely wouldn’t do for a dog to lunge away or growl if a patient makes a loud noise or reaches for them abruptly. When selecting a dog for these purposes, you would not necessarily want an animal that is high strung or one that is too laid back to get up and socialize.

Numerous studies have documented the benefits of pet therapy. Pets have been used in treating AIDS patients, cancer patients, the elderly and the mentally ill. One study determined that petting a dog can lower blood pressure and another found that pets can reduce stress related illnesses. A study at City Hospital in New York noted that heart patients who owned pets lived longer than those without pets. Owning a pet was found to be more significant to long term survival than the presence of even a spouse or friends.

Pets make us feel good. They comfort us, allow us to be ourselves and give those of us that need it, a reason for living.

October 31st, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Puppy 911: Recognizing symptoms of emergency

For many of us, when our dogs are ill, it is often quite difficult to know whether or not their condition warrants a trip to the emergency room.

In an emergency, the first thing you should know is where to take your dog. Many veterinarians offer 24 hour emergency service. Please make sure to ask your vet if this is a service offered by their practice. If your vet does not offer this service, know where your local veterinary emergency hospital is located.

So how do you know if you are experiencing an emergency? Most veterinarians will tell you that if you feel the situation is urgent to please call the closest emergency clinic and speak to a veterinary staff member. They will assess the situation and in most cases, have you bring your dog in to be examined. The following are some common emergency situations and ideas for how to handle them.

Acute Abdominal Pain If your dog is showing signs of abdominal pain such as tenderness to the touch, standing with his back arched, or refusing food, you should take him to the closest emergency clinic immediately. Other signs of abdominal distress can include vomiting, crying, shaking and difficulty breathing. These may be signs of Gastric Torsion. This condition can come on suddenly and in most cases affects large, deep chested dogs but any dog can be affected. This condition must be treated as soon as possible. There are other conditions associated with abdominal pain such as constipation, kidney or liver disease, or even a common stomach ache, but it is important to have tests done to rule out anything serious.

Uncontrollable Bleeding or Bleeding from the Chest. If your dog gets a cut, you should apply direct pressure with a clean dry bandage to the wound. The bleeding should stop within ten minutes, after which time, you should make an appointment to see your vet as soon as possible. The vet can only give your dog stitches within a small window of time. However, if the bleeding does not stop within twenty minutes or the bleeding is from the chest, you should take your dog to the emergency clinic immediately.

Broken Bones. If your dog has been in an accident where you suspect broken bones, first call your regular vet to see if you can get an appointment soon. If not, take your dog to the emergency clinic. They will need to take x-rays to determine whether or not bones have been broken.

Breathing Difficulties. If your dog is having breathing difficulties, take them to the closest emergency hospital immediately. There are many reasons why your dog could be having breathing problems and many of them are serious.

Car Accidents If your dog is hit by a car, it is important to take him to the closest emergency clinic immediately. Even if he is acting normal, he may have internal injuries that need to be taken care of quickly. Wrap your dog in a blanket to help prevent shock, and keep away from his mouth as many dogs that are in pain will bite (even if they never have before).

Continuous Convulsions. If your dog has a minor seizure or two, it is a serious problem and you should call your veterinarian at once. However, if your dog has a series of convulsions that last for more than a few minutes, you should place a blanket over your dog, keep away from his mouth and get him to the nearest emergency clinic immediately. There are several reasons why your dog could be having convulsions including epilepsy, metabolic problems, brain tumors, and poisoning and fits of seizures are considered to be life threatening in many cases.

In any serious situation, if you feel that your dog should be seen by a veterinarian, call his office to see how soon you can get in. Many veterinarians have technicians available to assess situations and answer questions to help you determine the seriousness of your dog’s condition. If your regular veterinarian is not available or if you feel that it is an emergency, the best thing to do, if at all possible, is to call the emergency clinic and tell them what is going on and that you are on the way. This helps the staff prepare for your situation in advance so the veterinary team is ready to work on your dog when you get there. If you have further questions on what kinds of conditions are emergency situations, please ask your veterinarian.

October 31st, 2005 by Administrator | 1 Comment »

Four Things to Do when Dealing with a Difficult Dog

When you brought him home, you just knew that cute little puppy was going to brighten your family’s life in many different ways! You visualized him running with the children in the backyard, curled up at your feet on a winter’s night in front of the fire, and as an always-cheerful companion for everyone in the house.

You didn’t expect biting. You certainly didn’t anticipate his aggressive personality. You never dreamt he would make it his life’s mission to destroy clothing and furniture. You didn’t plan for the random barking or the wanton disobedience. Whether you were ready for it or not, you own a difficult dog.

There is undoubtedly a temptation to give up. You may feel as though you are simply trapped with a “naughty dog.” Some may even consider the highly inappropriate route of abandoning a pet under these circumstances. Neither of these solutions, however, is good for the dog or the owner. Instead, one must be determined that they will work with their difficult dog to improve the situation. Making that commitment is the essential first step in dealing with any difficult dog.

But then what? There is no one-size-fits all solution for handling a difficult dog. Like people, each dog’s personality and needs are unique. There are four overarching things you need to do, however, if you want your dog to live a happy life and to be a pleasurable companion for you.

Seek out information

That small ten-page dog-training pamphlet you picked up at the pet store along with the leashes is not going to enough of a guide to training your difficult dog. Seek out detailed and expertly written information about dog training and specific methods to assist you in training your difficult pet. Canvass the library, bookstores and the internet in the pursuit of knowledge and tips that can help you deal with your specific pet problems. Although one must avoid researching at the expense of doing, it is important to have a strong understanding of your dog, his problems, and potential means of addressing his behavioral deficiencies.

Make sure your dog is healthy

Often, behavioral problems can be a manifestation of an underlying health problem. Consider the possibility that your dog’s behavior issues could be symptomatic of a physical problem. Make sure your dog is thoroughly checked out by a veterinarian. If a medical issue is underlying his poor behavior, proper treatment can rectify many of his problems—as well as helping to insure a long healthy life for your dog. Too often, medical causes of poor behavior go overlooked.

Be patient

Don’t expect your problem dog to transform overnight. Changing the behavior patters of difficult dogs can take some time. If you expect the quick course that worked in training your neighbor’s non-problem dog to be successful for your difficult pet, you will be disappointed. Brace yourself to commit a great deal of time to correcting your dog’s errant behavior. Additionally, impatience increases the risk of inconsistency in training and the likelihood you may lose your temper or act inappropriately in handling your dog. This type of behavior on the part of an owner may not only be cruel, it can also reverse any gains made and make quality training even more difficult.

Seek assistance

Sometimes a dog simply requires professional training assistance. If you have tried to manage the situation unsuccessfully and feel you are at a dead end, you must consider utilizing a professional dog trainer. Quality professionals have wide-reaching experience and may be able to isolate training methods that will be effective for your particular dog. You may need to hire a trainer on a regular basis. At there very least, you may plan on consulting with a trainer regularly.

By learning more, keeping a close eye on your dog’s physical health, remaining patient and seeking professional guidance when necessary, you can improve the quality of life for your behaviorally challenged dogs. The little puppy you brought home in hopes of having the perfect pet still has a chance at that happy life if you follow these recommendations and commit to treating the dog properly and training him effectively. By committing yourself to your dog’s training and well being you may end up with just the happy, content and cheerful companion you wanted all along.

November 2nd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Basic Care and Maintenance for your pup’s pearly whites

Many people do not realize the importance of caring for their dog’s teeth. As dogs age, the need for dental care increases. The best way to ensure proper dental health for your dog is to start while they are very young.

Many dogs do not like their mouths touched. It is important for you as a dog owner to desensitize them to being handled like this at a very young age. The veterinarian is always going to need to examine your dog’s mouth and you do not want to have problems with this. The best way for you to get your dog used to having his mouth touched is to begin touching it when you first get your pup. Make sure to touch the lips, open the mouth, and touch the teeth in a calm and relaxing way for about five minutes each day until your pup is used to being handled in this way. Make this a regular part of your interaction with your dog so he remains calm when you are doing any kind of preventive dental care.

Most veterinarians recommend brushing your dog’s teeth daily. Many manufacturers make special toothpaste and brushes for dogs. You do not ever want to use human toothpaste on dogs as it may be harmful to them. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, you may want to start by putting a dab of dog toothpaste on a cotton ball and rubbing it over his teeth. Toothpaste for dogs is usually quite tasty to them, so he shouldn’t mind this. You can then try a finger brush, available at your veterinarian’s office or pet supply store. Eventually, especially for larger breeds, you will want to graduate to a regular dog toothbrush. Regular brushing will help prevent the buildup of calculus and debris on your dog’s teeth.

Another way to help prevent calculus and buildup on your dog’s teeth is by using rawhide chews specially formulated for dental care. Many companies manufacture these chews. One of the best available is by C.E.T. Most veterinarians carry C.E.T. dental health products. C.E.T. chews are formulated with an enzyme that helps keep plaque from forming and prevents the buildup of bacteria. Also, the natural abrasion of rawhide chews helps keep teeth healthy. C.E.T. also makes a chew that contains chlorhexadine which has antimicrobial properties.

Some companies also make special dental health food, which may be recommended to you by your veterinarian to help prevent dental problems.

Even with proper preventive measures, most dogs will eventually need a dental cleaning from your veterinarian. If your veterinarian recommends a dental cleaning, it is important that you follow through. If your dog develops dental disease, harmful bacteria can pass through into the bloodstream causing potentially serious problems such as kidney infections and infections involving the heart valves.

A dental cleaning performed by your veterinarian is much like a human dental cleaning, however your dog will need to be sedated. The anesthesia is light and with today’s technology is extremely safe. Many veterinarians have anesthesia monitoring systems just like those used in human medicine. A thorough exam will be performed to determine if any teeth need to be pulled or repaired. Some veterinarians will do x-rays of the teeth to find any cracks or diseased teeth. After this, a trained member of the veterinary staff will perform a dental cleaning. First, they will scale the teeth to remove the tartar above and below the gum line. This will be done with both hand instruments and ultrasonic scaling equipment. After this, the teeth will be polished, which will make them smooth and help prevent plaque from adhering to them. Most veterinarians will also do a fluoride treatment. This is to help strengthen the enamel and prevent plaque from forming. If any teeth are diseased or broken, your veterinarian may pull them. Some veterinarians who specialize in dental care will perform root canals and other intensive dental work. Most veterinarians will put your dog on a treatment of antibiotics to help prevent bacterial infection.

It is very important to take good care of your dog’s teeth to keep them healthy and to prevent infections. Always follow your veterinarian’s advice and if you have further questions, consult your veterinary staff or pet professional.

November 3rd, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Pet Insurance: Yes, It Really Exists

Although pet insurance has been available for approximately 20 years, many pet owners have never heard of it and are surprised that such a thing would even exist. After all, insurance is for people, right? Well, if you have ever had to empty your savings account in order to pay for a pet’s surgery or if you have ever had to put a beloved pet to sleep because you couldn’t afford medical care, then you can absolutely testify to the usefulness and worth of pet insurance.

As is the case with most other health-related expenses, the costs associated with an average pet’s medical care - preventative, emergency and catastrophic – are rising all the time. If you have multiple pets, the cost of even the most basic care can be financially crippling. When deciding whether or not to buy a health insurance policy for your pet, you have to ask yourself a few questions. Do you consider your pet to be a member of the family? Would you be unable to pay for (potentially) thousands of dollars in medical bills if your pet develops cancer or needs long-term medical care? Would it absolutely break your family’s heart to have to euthanize your pet because you didn’t plan ahead for potential health crises? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, then you’ll want to seriously consider purchasing an insurance policy for your pet.

What Kind of Pet Insurance Is Available?

Pet insurance is now available through a multitude of specialty companies; and, just as with your average health insurance plan, the higher the premium, the greater the range of benefits you and your pet receive. The average plan costs anywhere from $20 - $40 per month and has either no annual benefit limit at all or a limit of approximately $15,000 - $20,000. Many plans offer discounts for coverage of multiple pets. Your deductible will be determined by the plan you choose, but the average is approximately $100 per year.

Since the majority of the medical expenses generated by a pet are related to routine procedures, look for a plan that covers vaccinations, neutering and spaying, annual check-ups and dental care. You want your pet to be protected in case he develops a serious illness or injury, but these lower-budget procedures can also put a big dent in your bank account. Make sure you’re pet is covered!

What Sort of Restrictions Are There?

You may be willing to pay for your pet’s health insurance, but that doesn’t mean an insurance company will automatically cover him. If your pet is over a certain age, he may be denied coverage. Even if you find insurance for your pet, there are always certain coverage limits and restrictions. Most policies won’t cover the treatment of pre-existing conditions or genetic defects. Sometimes cancer is also excluded from coverage (although many companies will add cancer care to the coverage for an additional cost).

Be aware of any waiting periods that are written into your pet’s policy. The waiting period will determine when your pet’s coverage actually begins – waiting periods can last anywhere from two weeks to six months. Once your plan takes effect, you may have to choose a veterinarian from a list of approved providers.

What Are the Alternatives to Pet Insurance?

If your pet does not qualify for insurance or if you simply choose not to buy a policy, there are a few money-saving options you can try. One example is a pet health care discount program (i.e. Pet Assure). When you join the program, you receive a discount (up to 25%) on your pet’s medical care as long as you patronize participating veterinarians. Other benefits, such as prescription discounts and access to product coupons, are also included in the membership fee.

If your uninsured dog needs emergency medical care and you have no funds available, ask your vet if their clinic offers any sort of emergency funding. Sometimes veterinarians will set aside funds for pets whose owners cannot afford care, especially if the treatment does not involve long-term care and multiple visits. If there are no such funds set aside, you may be able to finance the fees. A final option (and definitely a long-shot) is the humane society or non-profit pet support group that offers financial aid. You have to apply for their limited funds and few applicants actually receive enough money to pay the totality of their pet’s medical bills. Insurance is really the only way to make sure that your pet can receive costly medical care if he needs it.

November 4th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT VERSUS POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT

In this article, we shall discuss a variety of reinforcement methods used in animal training. We shall endeavor to clearly point out the pros and cons of each type and also discuss their appropriateness for given situations. Hopefully this will give you, the reader, the knowledge needed to make an educated decision on how to reward or correct your pets’ behavior. To begin, let’s improve our understanding of positive reinforcement.

Positive Reinforcement, for the purposes of this article, refers to any form of training that is based on rewards rather than punishment. This training would be the type witnessed in many zoos where a trained animal is rewarded with some treat, such as a morsel of food, for a job well done. Positive reinforcement can also refer to petting the animal or verbal praises. Other examples of positive reinforcement would be play time, such as a rousing game of fetch or playing chase.

Negative Reinforcement is the opposite of positive reinforcement. This involves a punishment for less than favorable performances and usually implies some kind of fear, pain or discomfort for the animal being trained. Training aids such as electrical shock collars or choke chains would fall under this category. Also in this category, you would find such things as crate training and chemical compounds, such as Bitter Apple and Cayenne Pepper. This is the kind of training exhibited in the old time circus shows displaying lion tamers and whips to keep the animals in submission.

While both types of reinforcement have their place, they also have limits and unacceptable uses. To beat a dog or inflict serious physical injury to the animal in the name of training is morally unacceptable and inexcusable, not to mention illegal in most areas. By the same token, allowing a dog to become a danger to others by never using any form of punishment is also unacceptable. An equal balance must be achieved for proper training of your pet or you run the risk of owning a maladjusted animal which will be either overly aggressive or fearful and nervous. If error is to be made in either direction, fall to the safer side of too much positive reinforcement, as this is much easier to correct.

Positive reinforcement does much for the relationship of the pet to its master and should be given any time the pet demonstrates a correct behavior at an appropriate time. Your pet will sense your pleasure in its performances and will seek to repeat them more often in the future. A kind word or a small treat goes a very long way towards your dog seeing you as a leader. Being pack animals, dogs will pick an Alpha or leader to the pack and will follow readily with a sole desire to please. To use positive reinforcement effectively, find what motivates your dog. Perhaps it is food or toys, playtime or even verbal praise. Whatever the case may be, use this motivation to achieve results with your pet. Consistently reward the pet in immediate response to the desired behavior. Dogs are creatures that thrive on instant gratification. In other words, reward them immediately for an action and they are far more likely to repeat it.

Negative reinforcement also has its place in training your dog, albeit a much smaller place. If your dog exhibits an undesirable behavior such as chewing on your power cords for your laptop or soiling the floor, then action must be taken to correct this. Behaviors such as chewing power cords could be dangerous to the animal and allowing this to continue could be harmful to your pets’ health as well as costly for you, in both repair bills and veterinary visits. Just like a child, sometimes a pup needs correction or a time out. A little time in the kennel or a light but convincing tap on the nose will help your pet to understand that these behaviors are not going to continue. (A note from the author: While a light swat to correct a dangerous situation such as cord chewing is acceptable, beating or injuring your pet is not. Please be a responsible pet owner and if you have had a bad day, don’t take it out on the dog.)

Again it should be remembered that immediate and consistent action is the key in training using both methods of reinforcement. If you wait too long before correcting or rewarding a behavior, all impact of the message will be lost. Observing these basics, you can clearly see that both methods are useful to trainers and have their special niches.

November 6th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

THE FIVE THINGS TO AVOID DURING TRAINING

In training your dog there are a few major downfalls that you are sure to encounter. Knowing them before you reach this point is very helpful to avoiding stressful situations later. The biggest mistake most people make is also the easiest for new trainers to fall victim to. This is the danger of expecting too much.

Dogs are very intelligent creatures and, by and large, very trainable. Thus when you visit the park with your untrained dog and the person next to you is playing Frisbee with their German Shepherd and the Poodle down the way is sitting patiently rather than attacking picnic goers, it is easy to think your dog should know these behaviors from birth. We often times forget the many hours of training that have been put into these wonderful dogs. Your dog can learn these very same antics but it will take time for these lessons to be instilled. Do not expect your dog to learn all of these routines over night. This would merely set you up for downfall number two.

The second problem people encounter is losing their temper. This usually results in an out of breath owner who is yelling at the top of the vocal capacity, a frightened dog and possibly a visit from the local animal welfare department depending on how the individual vents their frustrations. To avoid this downfall, make a conscious effort never to yell at your pet and hitting is always wrong. Raising your voice to your pet will do little to correct their errant behavior and do much harm to your relationship with the animal. It will result in a nervous animal that cowers from you rather than obeys your commands.

The third thing to avoid falls at the other end of the spectrum. These people let the dog become the master. This is equally detrimental to your relationship with the animal as the animal has no control to its behaviors and can quickly become a danger to itself and others. Dogs are pack animals and quickly decide who the leader is and who follows. If you do not take the leadership role from the beginning, you can rest assured that your pet will. A dog without a master will run amok and will quickly get into trouble chasing cars and people, destroying property and making a nuisance of itself. This mistake is tantamount to animal abuse and is very nearly as bad as the previous one.

Fourth in line of things to avoid is the mistake of giving up. Many a dog owner has a pet that has never reached its full potential due to the owner losing interest in their training. Dogs love to learn, especially when the owner rewards well learned behavior traits. Many owners, lacking the time or perhaps the patience, will be quite happy to have a pet that merely answers to its name and stops barking when repeatedly shouted at. Please do not let yourself fall into this trap. Your pet is a highly intelligent animal and is capable of learning so much more. Occasionally, dogs have even been known to develop neuroses due to boredom from not being challenged enough. This results in an unhealthy animal that can be poorly socialized and destructive of furnishings or even its own body. Your dog can and will respond to your training efforts if given the time to do so.

A fifth point that we keep reiterating (and well we should) is people’s failure to be consistent. If you tell the dog to sit and your pet doesn’t do it, stick with it until they do. Always use the same command words and enforce the same action each and every time. Manually enforce the command if it is necessary to get the desired reaction and reward the animal with some play time or some verbal praise for properly performing the routine. Consistency is the major key to training your pet. Repetitive lessons taught on a regular basis with consistent rewards are necessary to the effective training of your pet.

Knowing these five downfalls ahead of time will save you many frustrations while training your pet and will result in a much a healthier and happier relationship with your pet.

November 6th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

THE BASICS OF TRAINING YOUR DOG

As a new dog owner and trainer, you may find yourself a bit overwhelmed at first. Do not be discouraged by this. It is quite common and shows a healthy concern for your pets well being. This being said there are a few very simple rules to remember when training your pet.

If you can remember to remain consistent, keep a level head and reward your pet appropriately then you have won a large part of the battle. What do these three basics entail? We shall discuss that in the following few paragraphs.

Dogs are creatures of habit. Every part of their daily life revolves around an internal schedule and routine. They anticipate the return of their owners at a certain time of day and know that meal times occur regularly. Once trained, they will even exhibit certain behaviors to mark these times of day, such as bringing their empty food dish to their master or waiting near the door for their owners return. To us humans, this may seem a dull existence but our canine companions thrive on consistent routines. This fact is very useful to a new trainer as it can make your job much easier if you use this knowledge. Why? Because canine obedience training revolves around repetition of certain actions. The goal behind obedience training is the idea that a dog will respond with a certain reaction every time a certain command is given. This means that every time you tell your dog to sit, this will be exactly what will happen. To make use of the animal’s instinctive behavior in this regard, one must remember to be consistent with training. Go thru the routines exactly the same way every time with no variation until they are well in hand. If you tell your dog to sit, make certain your pet does so before moving on to the next point, even pushing their hindquarters down if necessary to accomplish this end. This rigid consistency will go a long way towards achieving a well-trained pet.

Let’s now move along to the next point of keeping a level head, which is also one of the more difficult points. At the end of a long day of work, you are tired, the dog just doesn’t seem to be responding and tempers can flare quite easily. You may decide this dog is just one of the few who can’t be trained or that you just don’t have the skills. You might be feeling completely discouraged by a seeming lack of interest on the dogs part to learn even the simplest of behaviors. You will most likely encounter this scenario more than once in your venture at dog training. Just take this moment as a queue that the lesson is done for the time being and retire to some less strenuous amusement such as a hot cup of tea. Dogs are like children and will find the ways to irritate you for amusement it seems. Just like children, they take time and patience in teaching anything worth training them for. Rome wasn’t built in a day and your dog won’t become a well trained champion over night either.

Now let’s move on to the third major point in being a successful trainer. The reward for doing a behavior or trick correctly. This is a very important part of the training process as it builds your relationship with your pet and shows them your appreciation for their good behaviors. Again consistent treatment is important in training and a reward should be given every time a performance of a given command is executed properly. This is not saying to give your dog a food treat every time. While an occasional tidbit of food is a great reward doing so consistently is not. This would result in an unhealthy pet and be counterproductive to your training efforts. Rather than doing this, offer other forms of reward such as rich verbal praise, play with a favorite toy or petting your dog to show affection. These rewards will enhance your relationship with your pet and make future training sessions even easier as your pet will anticipate these rewards and want to please you.

If these simple steps are kept in mind, your pets training should be an easy task with many rich rewards. Enjoy your pet and make your bond stronger while training with these three principles.

November 7th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Dog Training: Attitude is Important

There is nothing more critical to the success of dog training than the owner’s attitude. The mindset of the trainer is more important than the equipment purchased, the exact system used, or the breed of dog involved. Nothing can destroy the likelihood of effective training more quickly than an owner with the wrong outlook on the training process.

Dogs naturally crave and enjoy human companionship. When their human companions approach them in the right way, they are particularly receptive to learning and develop a strong desire to act in a manner that will please their master. This is why a proper attitude is exceedingly important with respect to training dogs. When the owner is pleasant, the dog will be pleasant. When the owner is excited about teaching, the dog will most likely be excited about learning. Dogs can often reflect the attitudes and dispositions of their owners, a fact that must be kept in mind while undertaking dog training.

Additionally, the proper outlook on dog training can make the experience infinitely more enjoyable for the owner. A pleasant training experience will naturally produce better instruction on the part of the trainer. Again, proper attitude will pay training dividends.

So, what is the right attitude to bring to dog training? Owners should strive to maintain a positive perspective at all times and should strive for a mood that makes the process fun for both the dog and the trainer. Failure to approach training with such an attitude risks disaster. The proper attitude and perspective truly is the prerequisite to training success.

The owner should be positive. A positive perspective, of course, works in conjunction with any quality training method. Effective training requires positive reinforcement, and that kind of praise and affection is best administered by someone who generally presents a positive attitude. Training will be filled with compliments, encouragement and praise. Those rewards, which are the key component to training, are more likely to be appropriately and effectively administered by a trainer with a positive disposition.

Trainers should recognize that they can manage to be both firm and friendly at the same time. It is not necessary to affect an angry or severe tone during the training process. These caricatures of displeasure do not offer any more training value than utilization of a simple serious tone. A lower tone with a serious “bite” is more than enough. When praising and instructing, the owner must remember to use a very friendly and happy voice. The dog will thrive knowing his owner enjoys their interaction so much and will be very motivated to learn as a result.

Most importantly the trainer must always remember that dog training is supposed to be fun. It should be fun for the trainer and just as fun for the pet. The idea is to make the training process exciting and enjoyable for the pet as is possible. By making the process a treat, the dog is especially motivated to perform.

Too often training becomes nothing more than a mandatory task. The owner does not relish the opportunity to spend time with his or her dog. The dog understands this and does not get excited at the prospect, either. In worse cases, training becomes an undesirable chore. The negative disposition and attitude of the owner is sensed clearly by the dog and mirrored. Training progress stalls, frustration sets in, and the whole process becomes further crippled.

The cliché that “attitude is everything” really does describe dog training. A negative or harsh attitude will crush hopes of success. A positive perspective coupled with friendliness and a sense of fun will make training a treat.

A fun disposition also makes training more enjoyable for the dog owner. The trainer’s positive attitude creates a more positive disposition for the pet, which in turn improves the trainer’s outlook even more. By starting the training process with a solid positive attitude, the owner gets the ball rolling, so to speak. The end result can be a training experience that is enjoyed by both pet and owner, which is sure to create amazing results. By approaching training with a positive disposition, a dog owner can produce surprising and positive outcomes.

November 11th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Did you just eat that? 10 things found in your home that can kill your dog

Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog’s reach.

1) Antifreeze: Many people do not realize it, but common antifreeze kills many pets each year. It smells and tastes very sweet to your dog and is very appealing to him. Ethylene glycol is toxic however, and each winter, many animals are killed by it. Symptoms of toxicity include seizures, vomiting, stumbling and lethargy leading to kidney failure. Make sure to keep your antifreeze out of your dog’s reach. If you suspect that your dog has ingested antifreeze, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

2) Chocolate: Chocolate contains a substance called the obromine which is toxic to dogs. Baking chocolate and dark chocolate is especially dangerous. While it usually takes a somewhat large amount of chocolate to kill a dog, poisoning and death does occur with smaller amounts ingested. Signs of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, increased urination, and increased activity. This can progress to seizures and unusual heart rhythms. Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate.

3) Bleach: As you might imagine, household bleach is toxic to dogs. Keep all products containing bleach out of your dog’s reach. Symptoms of bleach poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and abdominal pain. Do NOT induce vomiting if you suspect your dog has ingested bleach and contact your veterinarian immediately.

4) Tylenol: As little as two regular strength Tylenol tablets can kill a small dog. Dogs lack the proper liver enzymes to break down acetaminophen. Signs of toxicity include drooling, lethargy, and abdominal pain. If you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol, call your veterinarian immediately.

5) Watch Batteries: If your dog ingests a watch battery, it can cause a potentially fatal ulceration in the stomach within 12 hours. All other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs as well. Symptoms of toxicity include drooling, lack of appetite, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has ingested a watch battery, contact your vet immediately.

6) Moth Balls: Moth balls are very dangerous to dogs. They contain an insecticide that causes central nervous system excitement and seizures. When metabolized, ingestion of moth balls can lead to liver failure. Symptoms of poisoning by moth balls include vomiting and seizures. If your dog has consumed moth balls, do NOT induce vomiting. Seek veterinary care immediately.

7) Fabric Softeners and other detergents: All sorts of household detergents are toxic to dogs at one level or another, but fabric softeners fall into the highly toxic category. Signs of toxicity include vomiting, lethargy, burns to the mouth, drooling, muscle weakness, and even coma. Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog has ingested any detergent. Contact your veterinarian immediately.

8) Mouthwash: Mouthwash can contain boric acid which is highly toxic to dogs. Symptoms of poisoning by mouthwash include vomiting, drooling, seizures, and coma. You should take your dog to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect poisoning by mouthwash or other household item containing boric acid like contact lens solution or denture cleaner.

9) Peach Pits: With most fruits, the pits and the seeds are toxic to dogs. Signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has eaten a peach pit or the pit or seeds of any fruit, take him to the veterinarian immediately.

10) Household Plants: Many common and popular household plants are highly toxic to dogs. A partial list of toxic plants includes poinsettias, lilies, ferns, devil’s ivy, aloe, and ivy. Symptoms of poisoning due to ingestion of toxic plants include vomiting and central nervous system excitement. Many of these plants are fatal if ingested. Please contact your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten a toxic houseplant.

With diligence on our part, we can help prevent our dogs from getting into substances that are toxic to them. Many veterinary school websites offer lists of things that are toxic to dogs and what you should do if your dog ingests such things. As always, if you think your dog may have eaten something dangerous, contact your veterinarian immediately or take your dog to the closest emergency clinic.

November 14th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY

You’re the proud owner of a new puppy. Unfortunately, you are also the not so proud owner of a soggy living room carpet. It doesn’t take long to realize this can’t keep happening. So what do you do? It might just be time to housebreak your new pet.

Housebreaking may sound painful but relax. It really isn’t all that difficult. It is your dog’s natural tendency to want to keep its living area clean so once the home is firmly established in your pets mind the problem will be resolved. There are several ways you can assist the process to move faster.

The first thing you want to do is be sure your pet is healthy to start with. If your pet has not been to the vet already, make an appointment. Your dog should be checked for overall healthiness and for conditions that would make house training difficult, such as cystitis and kidney or bladder dysfunction. While your pet is visiting the veterinarian, ask to have them checked for worms and parasites also by way of a fecal exam. Also bear in mind the truthfulness behind mothers’ wisdom when she said “You are what you eat.” A poor quality dog food, in addition to contributing to a poor nutritional state, can cause digestive problems resulting in loose stools, thus contributing to your pup’s inability to control itself.

The most important part of housebreaking your pet is close supervision. This is necessary because your puppy learns by repetition. If you see your dog showing signs of needing to relieve itself, then immediate action must be taken to get the animal outside to its designated area. Consistency in training is critical. Do not think being lax because it’s cold or dark outside is acceptable or your pet will adopt these same attitudes. Close supervision during housebreaking is also necessary because it gives you time to learn your dogs special quirks such as needing to urinate right after eating or a certain action they take prior to soiling the floor so you can watch for these actions and respond in the future. Also it allows you to correct a situation while it is still fresh in the dogs mind. While being very intelligent creatures, short term memory is not the strong point for most animals of this species and correcting them after more than a few minutes have passed serves no real purpose.

Another key to Housebreaking is giving your dog a limited amount of space. Baby gates across doorways or a pet crate help to make a more confined area and help your pet to recognize this as his living space. Their natural tendency is to go outside of their own living space to urinate so making this association for your pet will make your job easier. Lining this space with old news papers is a good idea at first as it facilitates a much easier cleanup of any accidents your pet might have. Also be aware that some surfaces are more pet-friendly than others. Try to confine your new pet to areas of the home with tile or vinyl floors which are much easier to clean. Avoid letting them have access to carpet or hardwood floors which retain odors and can be extensively damaged by an errant pup.

Remember to limit the amount of water your dog has access to at the end of the day as you will otherwise be making a walk with your pet in the middle of the night. A quick walk outside at regularly timed intervals is advisable to training as this helps your pet to set an internal schedule. Be certain to use a consistent keyword to tell your pet why you are out in the yard such as “potty” or “toilet” or anything you choose and do not return indoors until they have relieved themselves. Also remember to give praise when your dog relieves itself in appropriate places such as on newspapers or outdoors. Again consistent training is the key.

If your pet does have an accident indoors, correct the animal immediately and then clean the area using non-ammonia based products. Instead use an Enzyme based deodorizer to clean the area and be sure to remove all odor of the accident or the animal will repeat the behavior again.

If you follow these simple rules, your carpets and your new pet should be able to coexist peacefully and relatively free from stress.

November 15th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Ruff Stuff: Teaching your dog NOT to bark

Unwanted barking is one of the most common behavior problems in dogs. It is normal for dogs to vocalize and bark from time to time but many times this behavior escalates much to the frustration of many dog owners. There are many causes of unwanted barking. First you must determine why your dog is barking before you can begin a program of retraining. You may need help from your animal behaviorist or veterinarian to do this.

One cause of unwanted barking is attention seeking barking. You may have inadvertently reinforced this behavior if as a pup your dog barked a lot and you gave him attention to try and stop the behavior. As an older dog, he may be exhibiting this behavior because he is left alone for long periods of time, does not have appropriate stimulation or exercise, or is an active dog that needs to have a job to be happy. If you suspect this is the cause of your dog’s unwanted barking behavior, you can start to retrain him by making sure first and foremost that he is getting enough exercise. Make sure to take daily walks - this also allows him to explore the world around him which is good mental exercise as well. If you have a local dog park, take your dog there and let him socialize with other dogs and people. Take an obedience class - this is good for mental stimulation and will help you to better communicate with your dog. Provide many interesting toys to keep your dog busy while you are not around. Make sure to spend one on one time with your dog on a daily basis and make it fun so that your dog learns that he doesn’t need to bark to get your attention.

Another cause of excessive barking is as a response to something that your dog is afraid of. Many dogs bark during thunderstorms or around unfamiliar people. If your dog is barking as a response to thunderstorms or other loud noises, provide him with a safe place he can go in these situations such as a crate. Make his safe place fun by providing good treats such as a Kong filled with peanut butter to keep him occupied. Play a radio or the television at a low level to help mask the noise. If your dog is barking at unfamiliar people, help him get over this fear by enlisting the help of your friends and neighbors. Have them walk by and approach your dog. Have them ask him to sit, and when he does so without barking, have them give him a treat. Pretty soon, your dog will learn to associate unfamiliar people with treats and will learn new positive behaviors. If your dog barks at people and noises that are coming from outside the house, you may want to limit his access to rooms with windows. This will help cut down on the unwanted barking behavior.

If your dog is barking when you’re not home, it could be due to separation anxiety. If your dog is especially attached to you or has recently experienced a situation of change in his routine such as divorce, a move, or a death in the family, this could be the case. To remedy this kind of barking behavior, you will need to start a course of desensitization. You can begin to do this by taking very small trips such as just out to the mailbox and back, while leaving fun toys and yummy treats for your dog. As your dog learns to behave while you’re gone, slowly increase the length of time you are gone. To check and see if your dog is barking when you’re gone, you may need to use a tape recorder or enlist the help of your neighbors. Separation anxiety often needs to be treated with medication as well as desensitization. If you suspect your dog is barking due to separation anxiety, please consult your veterinarian or animal behaviorist.

Some people choose to treat their dog’s unwanted barking problems with bark collars. The most humane bark collar available today is the citronella collar. These bark collars work by spraying harmless citronella in your dog’s face whenever he barks. Studies show a very high rate of success with the use of these kinds of collars. Using a citronella collar for a period of time can help to reinforce more positive behaviors.

There are many training tips and tools available to help you replace unwanted barking with more positive behaviors. If you need more information, consult your veterinary staff or pet professional.

November 16th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Why Choke Collars Should be a Thing of the Past

Many of us think of the choke collar as an inevitable part of the dog training arsenal. Purchasing a choke collar may seem as natural as buying food bowls or a leash. Choke collars have a long history of use and have long been considered a standard element to successful dog training. However, times do change and things we once thought eternal are sometimes proven obsolete. That is the case with the choke collar. It is time to abandon the use of choke collars and to seek out alternatives.

Choke collars can be used effectively when they are operated in the correct manner. Unfortunately, most people tend not to use the device correctly. Even those who attempt to get the best possible use from a choke collar often misuse it accidentally. Considering the presence of workable alternatives, there is no reason to cling to a device that may not be correctly utilized.

For instance, proper use of a choke collar requires proper placement of the collar. Choke collars are premised on the notion that the owner/trainer will be able to, with a quick flick of the wrist, tighten the collar around the dog’s neck as a disincentive for unappreciated behavior. Likewise, a quick movement on the part of the owner/trainer can then be used to loose the tightened collar once corrected behavior is underway. In order for the collar to work in this manner, it must be placed with the moveable portion of the collar atop the neck of the dog. Otherwise an owner/trainer will be able to quickly enforce a choke but will be unable to release it as quickly.

Observe the next several dogs you see wearing choke collars. You will undoubtedly notice the number of these collars that have either been incorrectly placed on the dogs neck or, as is often the case, have slipped and readjusted to put the moveable portion in the dangerous spot of being under the dog’s neck. Training a dog in this manner does not allow for the quick release of choke necessary and risks both the dog’s health and unnecessary cruelty. Instead of mere redirection and training, an improperly used choke chain can become something just short of a torture device.

Considering the ease with which a choke collar can slip out of position—particularly when used with the unruly dogs who need training interventions the most—it does not seem as if there is a valid rationale for maintaining the collar’s use. There is simply too much risk associated with the collars.

Of course, choke collars should be promptly removed after a training walk or session. However, for a variety of reasons they are often left on when a dog is unsupervised. This can occur out of sheer ignorance of proper training techniques, by simple oversight, or when a dog breaks a leash or otherwise escapes his owner/trainer.

When worn out and about, choke collars are very dangerous. The open ring to which a leash may be attached can get caught on any number of items. Dogs, will instinctively attempt to back away when confronted with such a situation. As they struggle, the collar tightens, furthering their sense of danger that instinctively leads to even more efforts at withdrawal. This snowballing affect poses a serious danger for any dog that finds his choke collar snagged.

Some advocates of choke collars may not find these arguments compelling in their personal circumstances. They may feel as though they understand and comply with the proper use guidelines for a choke collar. Again, a choke collar can be an effective tool when used appropriately, so it is understandable that some would continue to argue for its use. However, choke collars inevitably have some risk associated with them, even in the most skilled hands.

Meanwhile, there are options that have been demonstrated as, if not more, effective for dog training that avoid those risks. Head halters and similar devices are able to get the same results without the attendant risks of the choke collar.

Considering the presence of a safer choice and the risks associated with the choke collar, it would seems as though it is time to do away with the venerable device. Despite its long history in the world of dog training, today the choke collar should be considered a thing of the past.

November 17th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

B.A.R.F. Diet: Sounds yummy but what is it?

It actually sounds kind of gross, but BARF is an acronym for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food. Many health conscious veterinarians are huge advocates for this diet which can completely replace commercially prepared dog food. One of the first proponents of the BARF diet was Dr. Ian Billinghurst who still recommends it today. He believes that it is the ultimate way to get our pets in to optimum health. Many people believe that the BARF diet simulates what your dog would eat in his natural environment.

Many people feel that there are a lot of health advantages to feeding a raw food diet. Many owners who have dogs with problems such as allergies, skin problems, weight problems, and anal gland problems have found that the bones and raw food diet has helped to significantly remedy these issues.

Some of the advantages to feeding a biologically appropriate raw food diet include no consumption of preservatives found in most commercially prepared kibble diets, it usually tastes better to your dog than regular dog food, and in general, muscle mass and body condition improve on a raw food diet. One also often finds that dogs produce fewer stools, eat more slowly, and have fewer health problems. Many advocates of the raw food diet also claim that it is less expensive than commercially manufactured dog food. One of the biggest disadvantages to this diet is that it takes longer to prepare.

If you decide that you would like to try the BARF diet with your dog, you must first do the research. There are many websites and books available to guide you through the process. Talk to your veterinarian, though many veterinarians are unfamiliar with the BARF diet. Find people in your area that feed the raw food diet to their animals. Make sure it is right for you and your dog before you try it.

The next step is to transition your dog from his commercial dog food to his new bones and raw food diet. You may want to do this gradually as oftentimes dogs develop digestive problems when switching to new diets. Some advocates of the BARF diet recommend switching your dog to the new diet cold turkey, however.

When feeding a raw food diet, you will generally want to feed your dog twice per day. The first meal of the day will usually consist of raw meat and bones like turkey or chicken legs, thighs, wings, or necks, pork riblets, lamb chops, and the like. The second meal will consist of a mush made with raw meat, fresh vegetables, and Offal (the organs parts of the meat you are feeding). Usually you will want to supplement this with cottage cheese, eggs with the shells, yogurt, fruit, fish, and recreational bones (which are the harder to chew kinds of bones). This can vary, so do your homework. You will want to avoid grains. Advocates of the biologically appropriate raw food diet agree that dogs do not have the proper digestive systems to deal with whole grains and that most food allergies are grain related.

Most advocates of the raw food diet do not recommend supplements. If you aren’t sure what to do, speak with your veterinarian.

Many people are hesitant to feed their dog a raw diet because they are concerned about their dogs choking on bones. While these incidents occur, proponents of raw food diets say they are rare, and that generally, dogs choke on cooked bones, not raw ones.

There are commercially prepared raw food diets on the market. While this is always an option for you if you choose to feed raw food, many advocates of the BARF diet recommend against it. They argue that these foods have different regulations that human grade foods, oftentimes contain unnecessary supplements, are ground foods (and the whole basis of the BARF diet is raw, meaty bones), and are much more expensive than visiting your local butcher.

If you decide that the bones and raw food diet is something that you’d like to try, first talk to your veterinarian about your decision. Then, do as much research into the diet as possible. Talk to others who feed the diet. You may find that by feeding the BARF diet you are improving the health of your dog.

November 18th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Chill Out: Keeping Your Dog Cool in the Hot Summer Sun

Summer is typically a time of great family fun and activity. The days are long and warm, the kids are on vacation, and the sun worshipers are out in full force. Unfortunately, the season also brings with it some very specific hazards - sunburn, heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Not only are these hazards a threat to your human family, they can endanger the lives of your furry family members as well. As temperatures soar, your dog will need a little attention in order to ensure his safety.

Protecting Your Dog from a Nasty Sunburn

Many people don’t realize that dogs, just like humans, can be burned by the sun. So what can you do to protect your pooch from those burning rays? Just use the same common sense and know-how that keeps you and your family from burning up in the sun. First, keep your dog in the shade during those times when the sun’s rays are most intense – approximately 10 am to 4 pm. Second, apply a little sun block to your dog’s most exposed areas – the tip of each ear and the nose. While your dog’s lip area is also vulnerable to sunburn, the chance that your dog will ingest any sunscreen applied there is too great. Instead of applying sunscreen to the lip area, just keep a close eye on it and make sure that the area doesn’t get too pink. Third, pay special attention to your dog if he has a lighter colored fur. Just like their pale human counterparts, these dogs are more vulnerable to the burning effects of the sun. If, after a day out in the sun, any portion of your dog’s skin is reddened or blistered, immediately seek a veterinarian’s opinion and care.

Protecting Your Dog from Heat-Related Conditions

Just a few simple actions on your part can help protect your dog from heat exhaustion and heat stroke. First, never leave your dog in the car without the air conditioner running. Even a few minutes in the sun can send the interior temperature of a car (with windows open or closed) soaring to fatal temperatures. If you’re doing errands and know that you’ll be in and out of the vehicle, your safest option is to simply leave the dog at home. However, if you really must leave your dog in the car for even the shortest period of time, leave the air conditioner on.

Second, provide your dog with a shaded, well-ventilated resting area that will remain shaded at all times, regardless of the sun’s position. You may have to move the dog’s shade throughout the day in order to achieve this. Of course, during the most excruciating heat of the day, the ideal place for your dog is an air conditioned structure.

Third, make sure that your dog has unhindered access to cool, clean water. You’ll want to place the water in a shaded area so that it does not heat up as a result of direct sunlight. Change the water often, as stagnant water can harbor bacteria and insects that are harmful to a dog’s digestive system. When traveling, make sure that you have a water dish and fresh water (figure on one gallon per day) on hand at all times. If your dog spends all day outside, provide him with a small, shaded wading pool filled with water. Your dog can cool himself off throughout the day by jumping in and out of it. Make sure, however, that the pool is in the same, consistently shaded area as the drinking water.

Fourth, avoid any situation that would force your dog to stand on a sun-baked surface for any length of time. Such surfaces include truck beds, sidewalks, streets and beach sand. The heat can not only burn your dog’s skin, but can also prevent your dog from efficiently expelling heat from his body. If you must walk your dog in the heat of the day, walk him on a grassy area.

Recognizing and Treating Your Dog’s Heat Stroke

If your dog’s body temperature gets too high, he could develop heat stroke, or hyperthermia. In addition to a high body temperature (over 105 – 110 degrees F), the signs that indicate potential heat stroke are: an inordinate amount of panting, labored breathing, bright red gums or eye membranes, pronounced fatigue, collapse, unconsciousness and seizures. If your dog displays any of these symptoms, get him out of the heat immediately and into the shade. If possible, put your dog in a tub of cool water or bathe him with a series of cool, wet towels. Do not use cold water or ice! Either will cause your dog’s blood vessels to constrict and impede the body from being able to release heat. Heat stroke should be treated as an emergency; therefore, as soon as possible, seek a veterinarian’s care.

November 19th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

Fur Tamers: How to keep your dog’s coat looking at its best

Dogs, unlike cats, don’t sit and groom themselves by the hour. Actually, most dogs couldn’t care less about their appearance and couldn’t be happier than when they’re rolling around the ground on something stinky they’ve found. Unfortunately for them, “essence of fido” isn’t a favorite scent of humans and wading through bales of shedding dog hair left on the furniture is way overrated. So until our canine companions totally take over, they’ll have to live with us grooming them and trying to keep their coats healthy and shiny looking.

Pet salons provide a full array of grooming services and many people opt to avail themselves of their services. Prices are usually reasonable and all the mess and fuss are left to the professionals. However, for a variety of reasons not everyone elects to go this route; some don’t bother grooming at all and others just do it themselves at home.

To varying degrees, all dogs require grooming. Long-haired dogs should be brushed and combed two or three times a week. Dogs with thick undercoats should have the dead hair combed out weekly. This will accelerate the shedding process and avoid hairy carpets and furniture. Dogs with shorter hair should still be brushed and rubbed down frequently to keep their coats and skin smart and healthy.

Just like any project, proper grooming requires both technique and tools of the trade. A fine-toothed comb should be used to rake fleas from the coat and for grooming soft, silky coated dogs. The shedding comb offers a “skip-tooth” design; its long teeth pull dead hair from the undercoat while the short teeth collect loose hair. It’s also an excellent tool for removing matted hair. The undercoat rake is especially designed for breeds with thick, heavy coats and undercoats. The teeth are thick, allowing the rake to attack the undercoat while being pulled gently through the dog’s hair.

Although bathing is an essential component in keeping your dog’s coat fresh and presentable, it should not be overdone. Most veterinarians suggest bathing a dog no more than once a month. Over bathing can dry a dog’s skin and lead to hot spots and itching, which can lead to scratching and infection. If a dog is to be bathed more than once a month, an aloe based shampoo and conditioners should be used and foods and supplements with Omega fatty acids should be given to bolster the production of coat oils.

Daily examinations, though admittedly a little too demanding and time consuming for the average pet owner, are a valuable tool in maintaining a dog’s appearance and good health. The dog should be checked for cuts, rashes, fleas, ticks, bumps and burrs and other hitchhikers that might attach to the coat. These should be removed and antibiotics or appropriate medications applied as necessary. Flea allergies and contact allergies can cause skin eruptions and should be treated immediately.

It should be remembered that good skin and a healthy coat begin with a good diet. A little amount of ‘people food” goes a long way for a dog. Usually, a good grade dry dog food will provide all of the nutrition and essential dietary elements necessary to keep a dog in good health. If a dog’s coat is dull or its skin appears itchy, sometimes a change in diet is necessary. However, most often vitamin or fatty acid supplements will eliminate the problem.

As mentioned previously, professional groomers are readily available and should not be overlooked if grooming becomes too demanding. In addition to bathing and combing and thinning the dog’s undercoat, they also clean the ears and clip the dog’s nails. Actually, nails should be clipped weekly and often this is a chore that neither the dog nor the owner handle well. In recent years, the traveling groomer has emerged on the grooming scene. These professionals will come to your home in their Van or RV, which is fully equipped for grooming, and complete the full bathing and grooming process right in your driveway.

Our dogs ask little in return for the limitless love and devotion they bestow upon us. Helping them maintain their health by keeping them groomed is the least we can do to reward their affection.

November 20th, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO HEEL

One of the first commands your dog learns should be the “HEEL” command. This command will be helpful in insuring the safety of your pet while out in public and will make you look like the owner of a well-mannered and lovable pet. To add to the beauty of all this, the command itself is quite simple and almost any dog can learn the meaning of the command with 30 minutes or so of effort.

So what is the function of the “heel” command? This one word command tells your dog that the animal is to walk directly at your side, not before or after you. This provides safety for your pet in public places as well as for yourself. The command keeps your pet at your side rather than running through the picnic blankets of park goers and, if you own a larger more menacing breed, makes you seem a less approachable target to would-be criminal elements.

Wow, that sounds great… How do I teach my pet? Well, it isn’t as difficult as you might think. There are two general methods of training. One uses only positive reinforcement and the other uses a mixture of both positive and negative tactics. First we will discuss the positive reinforcement method.

In this method, you must first place your dog on a short leash and procure several of the dogs favorite food treats, a few pieces of dry kibble from the animals dog food is normally suitable. Decide which side you prefer your dog to walk on and train from this side in the following manner. With the dog by your side, facing in the same direction, place a treat in your hand next to your hip. In a firm, yet gentle voice, say “heel” and walk forward. When the dog responds by stepping with you, praise them and reward them with the treat. Remember to be consistent and not to reward before the action is carried out, yet always reward for a good performance. With a lot of patience, this method will work well for most dogs and results in a close bonding of the pet to the owner. However, some dogs are just naturally harder to train, just like some people. If you are blessed with one of these independent and strong willed pets then you might have to avail yourself of a different method of training, which was mentioned earlier in this discussion.

To use the second training method, you must start with a slightly longer leash of approximately seven to ten feet. Allow your pet a few moments to explore the boundaries of the leash and understand how it works. Then call the animal to your side and position yourself as before with the animal next to you, facing the same direction. In a firm voice, say “heel” and walk forward. At this time, the dog will probably not walk with you. It will, instead, begin to explore most likely running in a different direction than where you are leading. To correct this behavior, turn in the opposite direction of the pets’ direction of travel and take a few steps forward, quite briskly, as you raise the leash to shoulder height and let it play out behind you. The result of this action will be seen as the animal quickly reaches the end of the leash and their forward momentum teaches them the age old physics lesson that “Every action has an equal and opposite reaction.” The animal will quite quickly learn that to disobey the heel command results in a discomforting feeling from the sudden stop at the end of the leash and, after a short while, will learn to obey the command. When the pet reaches the state of obedience, be sure to reward them with lots of positive reinforcements, such as play time and treats, along with rich verbal praise.

Whichever of these methods you choose in the training of your pet, the “heel” command is sure to go a long way in making you a much happier pet owner who will be proud to show your pet anywhere. Remember to train with love, patience and consistency and your pet will reward you with loyalty and many, many years of companionship.

November 21st, 2005 by Administrator | No Comments »

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO SIT

Few things in life are prettier than watching a well-trained dog and one of the basic commands is the sit command. There are several methods of teaching your dog to sit. Two of the most popular are the Click and the Compulsory methods. The Click method is based again on purely positive reinforcement while the Compulsory method uses both positive and negative reinforcements. Let’s begin our discussion with the easier of the two, The Click Method.

The Click Method of training a dog to sit is based upon rewarding the animal for the desired behavior. It gets its name from the idea that some audible queue is used to alert the animal of a pending reward with many trainers using a device called a clicker for this purpose. Whenever the audible queue is given, the reward follows immediately. To train a dog to sit by this method requires little effort on the trainers’ part. One begins by lavishing the dog with several treats, one right after the other while giving the audible queue. Then abruptly stop the shower of treats and wait for the animal to direct its attention to you. Now display a treat and give the audible queue as you give the treat to the pet. Now hold another treat at chest level so that the dog must look up to see the treat. After a few minutes, your pet will likely sit down on its haunches because this position makes it much easier to watch the treat. Immediately, when this happens, give the audible queue and reward the pet. Repeat this lesson several times. After a while you will notice your pet sitting in anticipation of the click and the reward so it is now time to add your verbal command to the routine. When the dog begins to sit, say “sit”. This will gradually teach the dog that the command precedes the action and they will learn the meaning of the command in this way. After some practice and a bit of patience, your dog should begin to sit without having to see a reward being offered.

Now let’s discuss the more traditional method of training…. The Compulsory Method. This is the method grand dad used on his dogs. Tell the puppy to sit while enforcing it. Saying the verbal command “sit” and pushing down on the puppy’s tail section to make it contact the floor accomplish the lesson. With some dogs you might have to hold their chin up during this process or they will go ahead and lie down. The object behind the lesson is to teach the pup when you say “sit” that there is no other choice but to sit and so eventually the animal will respond on its own rather than having to be coaxed into position. Some owners use a tool called a choke collar for this training method. They will leash the dog with the choke collar in place and upon the sit command push the dog down. At the same time they will hold the choke collar down by way of the leash allowing only enough slack for th